FJ40 Rebuild Help! Chassis Axle leaf Springs

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Anybody getting into crusiers first thing I always recommend is to find a working running rig and drive it for a year or so before going crazy on mods you actually may not like the ride , I too if starting from scratch would just hit up Aqualu and order frame and all the body parts and put it all together.
I sold a done rolling chassis with 2.5 inch lift springs for $500 bucks last year nobody wanted it. Also tossed in the cowl tranny and rusty hardtop. Canadian stuff pure rust on the cowl and hardtop. Only need motor and body tub. You might want to collect up another rig befor you dive in deep.
I run SOA cut n turn stock 40 axLes with lockers and chromo birfs stock springs stock T-case. Chevy 350 Chevy tranny no need for anything fancy it will go if I push the pedal down drove from Canada to Pismo years ago crusied the I-5 without issues on 37’s. Also I used 4x4 labs highsteer so drives like a car now lol. You have lots to consider. I like to keep things simple when it comes to these old beasts.
s***s expensive now a days. Years ago this stuff was dirt cheap Pepe’s should have fell in love with these rigs 40 years ago there where lots around. lol. Had mine 30 years at least. Cheap trucks in my hay day. Haha. Cheers
 
Anybody getting into crusiers first thing I always recommend is to find a working running rig and drive it for a year or so before going crazy on mods you actually may not like the ride , I too if starting from scratch would just hit up Aqualu and order frame and all the body parts and put it all together.
I sold a done rolling chassis with 2.5 inch lift springs for $500 bucks last year nobody wanted it. Also tossed in the cowl tranny and rusty hardtop. Canadian stuff pure rust on the cowl and hardtop. Only need motor and body tub. You might want to collect up another rig befor you dive in deep.
I run SOA cut n turn stock 40 axLes with lockers and chromo birfs stock springs stock T-case. Chevy 350 Chevy tranny no need for anything fancy it will go if I push the pedal down drove from Canada to Pismo years ago crusied the I-5 without issues on 37’s. Also I used 4x4 labs highsteer so drives like a car now lol. You have lots to consider. I like to keep things simple when it comes to these old beasts.
s***s expensive now a days. Years ago this stuff was dirt cheap Pepe’s should have fell in love with these rigs 40 years ago there where lots around. lol. Had mine 30 years at least. Cheap trucks in my hay day. Haha. Cheers
I have ridden and driven them so to your point "they aren't comfortable vehicles". I wish they had ready made coilover conversion kits. I do not plan on using the 2F engine and feel pretty confident in the swapping in the LS3. To be honest after a having a 6speed manual FJcruiser, I hated all the shifting "thou necessary" for sure in the hard core off-roading world. I will check out the 4x4 labs highsteer as well, any thing to make it feel a little more modern to drive.
 
You'll drop more coin on a modern drivetrain than a complete vintage LC drivetrain, just to be out-wheeled by a stockish 4Runner? Serious, the windows fog up like crazy with the factory heaters and fan, and I live in the desert. That said, it is like proper 'overlanding' - it is more about the journey, and even as a 'purist,' I still appreciate your approach.
 
I am rebuilding and 78 FJ40 that I bought new the summer of 1978 and dove as a daily drive until 1991 when I hit a seismograph crew in a new F350 dully and have not driven it since. I drug it to PA from Wyoming and back again.

I have jumped into upgrading and restoring and do the mechanical work that I can with my 40 years of mechanical experience as a Millwright first then as a Field Engineer with a AAS degree in Industrial Maintenance.

Everyone is right come, up with a plan and an outline on costs and you will blow the budget. There are a lot of resources to research here and on the internet.
My plan is to take a very capable rig in stock form to an even more capable and reliable trail rig that will still run the high ways so I can drive to the trail.

I replaced the first 2F with a 155F when I needed another motor and it was free. That has been replaced with a Cummins R2.8.
Updated to the H55F and split transfer case with a 3:1 low range
Used a FJ60 rear axle housing that is converted to a full floater, with disc brakes and chromoly shafts and a LockRight.
I reused the front axle and installed a big brake kit on it will IFS wheel hubs to match the rear track of the FJ60 axle.
High steer with larger trunnions and bearings. RVC axles with 30 spline joints from the differential to the hubs.
Replaced the FJ40 steering with a 105 steering box. The stock steering is very vague and wanders really bad even later power steering versions.
Replaced the springs with Alcan leaf springs.
There will be body work to be done to replace damaged parts and some rust repair.
 
Yea all great

Well, I hear you on those points for sure. I think shipping the pieces is the most expensive thing I have noticed. You sound like my wife who says it in a different way, LOL. I do have my sights on a 1978 that has the full drivetrain but only the cowl forward with rusty bent body parts. That donor would have everything engine and drive train wise thou of course I would have to get the engine rebuilt then buy new components bits and pieces etc. In terms of the body which I am less concerned about given the aqualu guys or china full body ($12000 ship to my door) fully primed and painted solution. I wish your airplane example applied to our FJ40 enthusiast community in terms of price. I will send progress picks as I go along here. Trying not to be stubborn here but my stub my toe for sure. I feel like I have watched over 300 hrs of builds over the past 5 years and it still does not make me an expert on much at all.

Hey there, Incase you are wondering we do have a FJ43 in stock at aqualu if you do decide to pull the trigger you won't have to wait!
 
You can buy a fj43 frame from aqualu. Just weld the 78 fj40 vin on the fj43 frame. A LM7 is a gen 3, 5.3 LS truck motor. Easy to find and inexpensive.

Ok, that gives me more of the picture. The practical side of me says @Wasatch Jay is spot on. Go find one with all the upgrades you want. You’ll be time and money ahead- as I understand it you have a frame and body. There’s so many more pieces!! Additionally, there’s a lot of builds out there that fit your description. Be patient, there’ll be a deal that’ll fit your needs/budget.

The devil on my shoulder says, a bare frame is a blank canvas. Fj80 axles are overkill and too wide for what you want to do. The 60 axles will be a good compromise. (& your prices are cheaper than what I see around here). If you want to drive across the state, the ls is tough to beat. But there’s a lot to figure out first.
ARB Old Man Emu leaf springs and Bilstien 5100s all around anti inversion shackles all on the way boys!!!
 
ARB Old Man Emu leaf springs and Bilstien 5100s all around anti inversion shackles all on the way boys!!!
I have a OME 2.5 lift with shackle reversal- 4” total. It’s a great riding suspension. How big of a tire are planning on running? I’m maxed at 35’s for crawling. Maybe I could do 37’s on the street, buts what’s the point?
 
I have a OME 2.5 lift with shackle reversal- 4” total. It’s a great riding suspension. How big of a tire are planning on running? I’m maxed at 35’s for crawling. Maybe I could do 37’s on the street, buts what’s the point?
I likely will run 34's when she is fully built. 37's LOL why not just rub the finders off the truck.
 
I likely will run 34's when she is fully built. 37's LOL why not just rub the finders off the truck.
I don’t think OME 2.5” is going to make room for 34’s. I forgot to mention that I “may” have enlarged my rear fenders.
 
right now we are 4 axles on the ground, 4speed transmission and transfer case, chassis on its side, parts in mail. I will send pics once we start welding. and getting a rolling chassi in play. Sorry for the slow build guys...
 

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