Front Axle Rebuild (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Threads
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Location
Eastern, OR
Sometime in the next few weeks I'm planning to undertake this project. It's time. Pretty leaky and my steering system needs a refresh.
About 20 years ago a friend helped me repack bearings on a drum brake axle and I repacked the bearings on my 100 series a few years back. Otherwise, I'm a complete noob at something like this. I've never done a complete axle refresh so I'm needing some pointers, tips, tricks, and help making sure I have any and all tools I may need. I bought a parts kit last year, actually, from Cruiser Outfitters, so I think I'm good on parts. I've been watching lot of YouTube videos but those can be a mixed bag. Does anyone know of a great instructional video or is there a good write-up? Sort of an axle rebuild for dummies maybe? Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
I'm hoping to remember to take some photos and document progress here as I go.
 
Here's my Cruiser and the way we look as of now.

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Pretty simple job, just a little messy. Get a kit from @cruiseroutfit and a good manual. Make sure to keep track of your shims and all will be fine.
 
only one special tool needed. make sure you have the 54mm socket for removing and tightening the retaining nut. one other nice to have took was a brass drift. you can use it to bang on the hub studs without marring the threads but it’ll help pop the cone washers out so you don’t sit there swearing at them for an hour. have loads of shop rags and itemize the order parts come off so you get them all back on. pretty simple job really. just takes time and loads of rags.

edit: just remembered snap ring pliers are needed too if i recall correctly

IMG_7698.png
 
the 40 Channel has decent video of the knuckle job. There are plenty of threads here too, search "knuckle job".
Plan to clean and paint everything "while you're in there". Good time to replace your brake lines as well. Also a good time to refresh your hubs. Also a great time to do your TRE's.
 
1. Download from above ^^^RESOURCES^^^ FSM for 40 series and read section on 'front axle' - Thats really
all the instruction you need. Follow the book.
2. get a full kit with all the proper bearings and seals. CruiserOutfitters can help. I'd recommend also sourcing
Marlin Axle seals, they are better sealing and quality. Look for allen head drain plugs with new seals. Way nicer to
get to later and don't round off.
3 Torque wrench. - Proper nuts torque on knuckle is important.
4. When you pull the 4 nuts from the top and bottom of the knuckle when you replace the trunnion bearings
DO NOT MIX UP THE SHIMS OR CHANGE THEIR POSITIONS. This is the single most screwed up item on all
new guys 'what do I do now', LOL. If you take them out and put them back I'd say you have a 95% or higher chance
that the preload will be just fine when you torque the nuts back on properly.
6 As you take each part off, lay it on the bench in a organized way so you can see where it all goes back together.
Don't sweat it, it's not that big a job, get tubs under the hubs to catch the grease and clean everything with brake clean
as you go.
As the guy above mentioned get the 54mm proper socket. Also you need inside snap ring pliers as per pdf.
These pics are my 60 axle, no difference. Just be organized.

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Attachments

  • lisle_44900.pdf
    54 KB · Views: 54
Hubs:

Knuckle:

Project Wrong Way: (Part 1) Ep 45 - Start On FJ40 Front Axle, Birfield C Clip Install, Georg Esterer & Pals Come to Visit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_Igvqt_-4o
(Part 2) EP 46 - Georg Teaches Me Axle Stuff, 36hrs Without Sleep, Rubber Gloves, Lube, Etc. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EYyJDuN0xo
OTRAMM

(Part 1) Toyota Steering Knuckle Tear Down - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLEjbWimHEY


Coolerman: Knuckle Rebuild - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14.htm

Birfield Removal & Install
Toyota Solid Front Axle Knuckle Rebuild/Birfield Replacement - 80 Series Land Cruiser FJ80 FZJ80 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxMACmhY-3w



Cruiser Outfitters FAQ: Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_knuckle.html

Wheel Hub Rebuild Video Tutorial: How To Rebuild A Toyota 4X4 Solid Front Axle (Part 5) Rebuilding Hub & Rotor Assembly - https://youtu.be/nx3QVTGuCZ4

Wits End Poster
Good 80 Series Narrated Video:
80 Series Land Cruiser Knuckle Rebuild - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y08phFlezBs&t=35s
TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED: CB=Cruiser Brothers; CO=Cruiser Outfitters; LT= Lithia Toyota

1. ✔Rags/Paper Towels
2. ✔600 grit polishing pad to fit on grinder for outside of knuckle (Amazon)
3. 1000 grit polishing pad to fit on grinder for outside of knuckle
4. 1-5/16" socket for installing axle seal?
5. ✔Luggage Scale (CO)
6. ✔2-1/2 kilos lithium based molly grease (Amazon)
7. ✔54mm Socket for Hubs (available at Cruiser Outfitters, part# FA15007)(CB)
8. ✔Wheel studs (Autozone)
9. ✔Locking Hub Studs (CB)
10. ✔New Rotors (LT)
11. ✔Stud installer/remover (Amazon)
12. ✔Red Loctite (O’Reilly’s)
13. ✔For repacking the wheel bearings, you will want a #2 high temp wheel bearing grease.(O’Reilly’s Master Pro) For re-packing the birf joint and the knuckle housing/bearings, you will want a #2 moly fortified grease. (1 pound per side) Both are available in many different brands, pick your poison there.
14. ✔Brass Hammer (Amazon)
15. ✔Warn Hub Gaskets (CB)
16. Black spray paint
17. ✔Stainless Cotter Pins for Tie-Rod Ends (ACE)
18. ✔2 M10 studs with heads cut off and slots cut in for aligning spindle during re-assembly
19. ✔Brake Kleen/Dupli Color Prep Spray (O’Reilly’s/Amazon)
20. ARP knuckle studs?
 
I used the Plastic Padding (similar as the JB Weld) for the knuckle ball pitting:
1706996202936.jpeg

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I didn’t like the OEM seals sealing properies, so I changed the to the Trail Gear’s polyurethane ones:
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1706996410616.jpeg
 
That fluid leak on the passenger side looks to be more brake related than axle related, at least to my eye.
You may be right about that. I had a local tire shop do some brake work on the Cruiser a few years back and it's been a disaster ever since. There is all kinds of stuff dripping out of that area when the weather warms up though.
 
Hubs:

Knuckle:

Project Wrong Way: (Part 1) Ep 45 - Start On FJ40 Front Axle, Birfield C Clip Install, Georg Esterer & Pals Come to Visit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_Igvqt_-4o
(Part 2) EP 46 - Georg Teaches Me Axle Stuff, 36hrs Without Sleep, Rubber Gloves, Lube, Etc. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EYyJDuN0xo
OTRAMM

(Part 1) Toyota Steering Knuckle Tear Down - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLEjbWimHEY


Coolerman: Knuckle Rebuild - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14.htm

Birfield Removal & Install
Toyota Solid Front Axle Knuckle Rebuild/Birfield Replacement - 80 Series Land Cruiser FJ80 FZJ80 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxMACmhY-3w



Cruiser Outfitters FAQ: Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_knuckle.html

Wheel Hub Rebuild Video Tutorial: How To Rebuild A Toyota 4X4 Solid Front Axle (Part 5) Rebuilding Hub & Rotor Assembly - https://youtu.be/nx3QVTGuCZ4

Wits End Poster
Good 80 Series Narrated Video:
80 Series Land Cruiser Knuckle Rebuild - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y08phFlezBs&t=35s
TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED: CB=Cruiser Brothers; CO=Cruiser Outfitters; LT= Lithia Toyota

1. ✔Rags/Paper Towels
2. ✔600 grit polishing pad to fit on grinder for outside of knuckle (Amazon)
3. 1000 grit polishing pad to fit on grinder for outside of knuckle
4. 1-5/16" socket for installing axle seal?
5. ✔Luggage Scale (CO)
6. ✔2-1/2 kilos lithium based molly grease (Amazon)
7. ✔54mm Socket for Hubs (available at Cruiser Outfitters, part# FA15007)(CB)
8. ✔Wheel studs (Autozone)
9. ✔Locking Hub Studs (CB)
10. ✔New Rotors (LT)
11. ✔Stud installer/remover (Amazon)
12. ✔Red Loctite (O’Reilly’s)
13. ✔For repacking the wheel bearings, you will want a #2 high temp wheel bearing grease.(O’Reilly’s Master Pro) For re-packing the birf joint and the knuckle housing/bearings, you will want a #2 moly fortified grease. (1 pound per side) Both are available in many different brands, pick your poison there.
14. ✔Brass Hammer (Amazon)
15. ✔Warn Hub Gaskets (CB)
16. Black spray paint
17. ✔Stainless Cotter Pins for Tie-Rod Ends (ACE)
18. ✔2 M10 studs with heads cut off and slots cut in for aligning spindle during re-assembly
19. ✔Brake Kleen/Dupli Color Prep Spray (O’Reilly’s/Amazon)
20. ARP knuckle studs?

Thanks for all this. It's great. Your list seams overwhelming though. As does the whole project really.

I've asked 3 different shops if they'd do it for me and they all turned me down. Plus everytime I get someone to do work for me, I'm always disappointed in the result and half the time i end having to do it over anyway so I really wanna do it myself but I'm not sure I'm cut out for this big of a mechanical project. I tried to get motivated to do it last year and chickened out. Been trying to figure out how to get it done ever since.
 
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My rig is in pretty good shape so I don't think I'll have too much pitting or fighting with broken studs but if I do break one I would be totally lost on how to fix it. I'm not much of a mechanic really. Only do it out of necessity cause finding a good professional around here has been completely impossible.
 
Thanks for all this. It's great. Your list seams overwhelming though. I've asked 3 different shops if they'd do it for me and they all turned me down. Plus everytime I get someone to do work for me, I'm always disappointed in the result so I really wanna do it myself but I'm not sure I'm cut out for this big of a mechanical project. I tried to get motivated to do it last year and chickened out. Been trying to figure out how to get it done ever since.

It's not rocket science, it's just a messy dirty job. leave yourself most a weekend to do it the first time, go slow, take your time. The hardest part for a beginner mechanic IMO is setting the pre-load on the wheel bearings with the fish (or luggage?) scale. Even that is not difficult, but it can make people nervous the first time that they're doing it right. Also, sometimes the cone washers don't want to play nice.

Good luck with it in any event.
 
Thanks for all this. It's great. Your list seams overwhelming though. As does the whole project really.

I've asked 3 different shops if they'd do it for me and they all turned me down. Plus everytime I get someone to do work for me, I'm always disappointed in the result and half the time i end having to do it over anyway so I really wanna do it myself but I'm not sure I'm cut out for this big of a mechanical project. I tried to get motivated to do it last year and chickened out. Been trying to figure out how to get it done ever since.
It does seem daunting, however, it isn't hard. Just really really dirty. It is something that once you do once, correctly, you won't have to do for many years, so do it right this time.

Do it yourself. It is a rite of passage. You can do it. Don't trust anyone else to do this for you. They don't care like you do (or should).
 
What @RevISK said! There is a great deal of gratification that comes from doing a job that at first blush seems daunting but once you get into it and follow the step-by-step guides, it turns out that it really isn't that bad. Plus, it is an excuse to buy some more tools. Once you are done, you will find that you have more confidence to tackle other projects, which, in turn, will lead to the acquisition of more tools. Soon, you will be needing a bigger garage. :)
 
One question I've got after doing some more studying, do I need to seperate the inner axle from the birfield after removing it? Or just leave it together?
 
How did you apply that plastic padding ? I looked into that stuff and was well pleased and I would like an outcome as your knuckles.
With a finger. Then sanded down and painted with thick layer of epoxy with a brush. Then wet sanded with 600 grit paper.
 
One question I've got after doing some more studying, do I need to seperate the inner axle from the birfield after removing it? Or just leave it together?
No need. Easier to clean properly when separated.
 
I've asked 3 different shops if they'd do it for me and they all turned me down.


Look for a driveline shop if you really don't want to do it yourself.

It's a time consuming process going through the front axle, but it is fairly straight forward. Rebuilding a differential takes some skill and knowledge. I won't tackle it alone, but I'm close friends with a driveline mechanic.
 

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