Front Axle Rebuild (2 Viewers)

[70 FJ40]

@pb4ugo thanks for the response. I don't know about the box or center arm being rebuilt per the fsm. I watched the video by OTRAMM to rebuild the center arm. Seemed very straight forward and simple. I did a rebuild of one of these on my previous 40 15 or so years ago. The steering box, I purchased rebuilt by a member here on mud.

My pre-load on the bearings were both within spec except the one on the passenger side was just under 6 lbs and I think 6.6 lbs is supposed to be the minimum.

 

[RevISK]

Unfortunately I don't think the centerarm is my issue. I've got the top bolt loose enough I can nearly turn it by hand and still what feels like some sort of binding in the steering. Just backing off the top bolt is the only way to adjust the center arm correct?

I'm pretty sure my problem is not the caster. Though, I will fix my caster as soon as the shims get here. I can be going 15 mph in my little subdivision turn a corner and unless I pull the steering wheel back to center after the corner, I will run into the curb in short order.

That sounds like caster.
Or toe in.

Either can make the return to center difference to a degree.

 

[70 FJ40]

OK. Well. I will wait until I get my caster shims installed before I do any more panicking.

According to my alignment specs, is my toe in where it should be?

 

[RevISK]

OK. Well. I will wait until I get my caster shims installed before I do any more panicking.

According to my alignment specs, is my toe in where it should be?

Seems low. Depending on your lift and tire size they should be between an 1/8 and a 1/4”. Of course, in the non-shade tree mechanic world they’d measure it in degrees, but here we are.

On my truck with 33” tires and a roughly 2.5” lift I’m running 3/16” toe and 4* shims and I’m not quite there yet. I believe I may need more caster, possibly 6*.

I also have a 3.5 turn Saginaw which is twitchy af.

You’ll get there. As will I.

 

[RevISK]

The caster shims will make a big difference regardless.

 

[70 FJ40]

My lift was on it when I bought it. It's from SOR. I think it's 2.5" but may be 4" tires are 33/10.50.

Looks like my toe in after alignment is 2 degrees. Ya? To increase that, I would turn my tie rod to shorten the total length. Correct?

 

[RevISK]

My lift was on it when I bought it. It's from SOR. I think it's 2.5" but may be 4" tires are 33/10.50.

Looks like my toe in after alignment is 2 degrees. Ya? To increase that, I would turn my tie rod to shorten the total length. Correct?

IIRC, 10* is a rough target. However, since we don’t have the fancy equipment, we measure in inches. Archaic, yes, but here we are… yet again.

I’m pretty sure I posted my Fisher Price version of a toe in rig earlier in this thread.

 

[70 FJ40]

IIRC, 10* is a rough target. However, since we don’t have the fancy equipment, we measure in inches. Archaic, yes, but here we are… yet again.

I’m pretty sure I posted my Fisher Price version of a toe in rig earlier in this thread.

You did post that. I started with that method when putting everything back together. Was hoping I was way off with something and that was the reason for the bound up steering feel. But after the shop's alignment, problem was still there.

I'm afraid I'm getting confused about alignment numbers. Wouldn't a total toe of 20* be more than 10*.

Sorry if I sound completely ignorant.

 

[70 FJ40]

You have to adjust the center arm. If it is too tight, steering will not return to center, too loose increases wobble.

View attachment 3569915

^^This was it.^^
My haste in rebuilding and my ignorance on the proper way to adjust the center arm lead to the tight bound up steering feel. My local tire shop guy helped me figure out a process of elimination by which I could determine where the problem was. All signs pointed to the center arm, so I did some more studying on that part. Should have realized sooner. Seams so simple now. Thanks all for the help, advice and encouragement on this project.

2 degree shims came from Cruiseroutfitters late yesterday as well, so next chance I get for a little wrenching I'll put those in and I'll have it dialed.

On another note, I ended up purchasing the Monroe sc2946 steering stabilizer in addition to the sc2916 because though Amazon it was less than $30. Hardware from that kit worked great. So if anyone nearby needs a stabilizer for their 60 series. I've got one that will fit.

 

[dazerb]

^^This was it.^^
My haste in rebuilding and my ignorance on the proper way to adjust the center arm lead to the tight bound up steering feel. My local tire shop guy helped me figure out a process of elimination by which I could determine where the problem was. All signs pointed to the center arm, so I did some more studying on that part. Should have realized sooner. Seams so simple now. Thanks all for the help, advice and encouragement on this project.

2 degree shims came from Cruiseroutfitters late yesterday as well, so next chance I get for a little wrenching I'll put those in and I'll have it dialed.

On another note, I ended up purchasing the Monroe sc2946 steering stabilizer in addition to the sc2916 because though Amazon it was less than $30. Hardware from that kit worked great. So if anyone nearby needs a stabilizer for their 60 series. I've got one that will fit.

Glad that helped!
I have no shims on OME 2.5" lift with new 33"x9.5" tires and the handling is very solid. I ended having a shop check my shade tree shore string job and i was WAYoff.
I rebuilt center arm/pitman arm, replaced a very bent tie rod. And could NOT get that steering box off... so it is original.
I have to parse my frustration levels and will come back to that box eventually.

 

[70 FJ40]

Well, after a few drives things are shaking out pretty well with the steering. Still wanders a little so definitely need to get some caster shims in there to help with that. I'm considering putting some new springs on it, so I'm gonna hold off on the shims until I decide.

Truck is pulling to the right when I brake though. And seems to be getting worse. I replaced the 3 front rubber brake lines when I did the knuckle job. I bled the front brakes but not the rear. Thinking I probably need to do that. What's the proper procedure for bleeding the entire brake system? Is there a front to back proportioning valve in a '77?