IMHO, it is best to do rotors and front axle service at the same time. Start a new thread and introduce yourself and the DIY maintenance that you have planned and you'll get lots of suggestions.
-B-
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Romer
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IMHO, it is best to do rotors and front axle service at the same time. Start a new thread and introduce yourself and the DIY maintenance that you have planned and you'll get lots of suggestions.
-B-
I'll second IPTMan's suggestion:
"12. 400 then 600 grit sand paper will take care of the rust that might build up on the back side of the knuckle (see pic below)."
I didn't have 600 grit, but had 400 and some red scotchbrite. There were some spots that were so bad i had to use 320 to knock down the big pitting. Moral of my story is i got them as smooth as i could so that the felt wouldn't catch. Aka, if your rag or shop towel leaves hairs on it, so will your felts.
Wiser members of the forum please chime in and tell me if this was incorrect to do or a better solution, i'd greatly appreciate it.
Jeremy
"12. 400 then 600 grit sand paper will take care of the rust that might build up on the back side of the knuckle (see pic below)."
I didn't have 600 grit, but had 400 and some red scotchbrite. There were some spots that were so bad i had to use 320 to knock down the big pitting. Moral of my story is i got them as smooth as i could so that the felt wouldn't catch. Aka, if your rag or shop towel leaves hairs on it, so will your felts.
Wiser members of the forum please chime in and tell me if this was incorrect to do or a better solution, i'd greatly appreciate it.
Jeremy
Just finished my axle rebuild today.. and a few comments to add to make everyone's life easier for this job.
Must haves:
Brass Drifts
Seal Puller
Race/Seal drivers up to 3" or so because the inner hub oil seal needs one that big or you could use a block of wood since my seal drivers only went up to 2" or so.
10mm x 1.25 thread pitch threaded studs to thread at 10oclock and 2oclock to line up the spindle gaskets/dust cover gaskets etc. I got them at Home depot and had to cut off the bolt heads since my local stores didn't have threaded studs in that size.
8mm x 1.25 thread pitch to screw into the axle shift end to pull it out to put on snap ring near the end of rebuild
4-6 14oz tubes of moly grease I noticed the "tubs" are 14oz or generally the same amount as the "tubes" but double check if not sure. Hi temp bearing grease for the bearings.
Broke off one of my ABS sensor bracket bolts and had to get a replacement which the size turned out to be a 8mm 1.25 thread pitch, try to get the same length though I could not find one exactly the same
100 count box of nitrile gloves as another guy had suggested on this thread, I was switching frequently
tons and tons o rags
Must haves:
Brass Drifts
Seal Puller
Race/Seal drivers up to 3" or so because the inner hub oil seal needs one that big or you could use a block of wood since my seal drivers only went up to 2" or so.
10mm x 1.25 thread pitch threaded studs to thread at 10oclock and 2oclock to line up the spindle gaskets/dust cover gaskets etc. I got them at Home depot and had to cut off the bolt heads since my local stores didn't have threaded studs in that size.
8mm x 1.25 thread pitch to screw into the axle shift end to pull it out to put on snap ring near the end of rebuild
4-6 14oz tubes of moly grease I noticed the "tubs" are 14oz or generally the same amount as the "tubes" but double check if not sure. Hi temp bearing grease for the bearings.
Broke off one of my ABS sensor bracket bolts and had to get a replacement which the size turned out to be a 8mm 1.25 thread pitch, try to get the same length though I could not find one exactly the same
100 count box of nitrile gloves as another guy had suggested on this thread, I was switching frequently
tons and tons o rags
Well since you hinted at it but didn't say it...
Use the ABS bolt to pull the axle out to get the snap ring on...keeps me from having to dig in the bolt box...
nice detailed write up thanks.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
Always nice to have the right tools.
but, if you are forced to go it without, here are some 'cheaters'
instead of a brass drift- a socket extension can be heated red hot, tempering it. it'll get hard pretty quick, but will not destroy the studs while you whack the cone washers. a brass drift is better, but not *necessary*.
Seal Puller: I grabbed some channel locks and took them apart-- it yields 1 part that is more or less a seal puller. Not nearly as good as a cheap $10 auto store part, but available in nearly any toolbox at nearly any hour. Just pull the nut/bolt out of the two halves.
Seal Driver: a large socket and/or a chunk of wood works decently. Not as well as the 'real thing' but reasonably well.
studs for the knuckles: I used some bamboo skewers, they held my junk in place,mostly. studs would be better. if you've got access, use them. if not, look around, there are a lot of random items that are about the right size. Close enough, anyway.
8x1.25 bolt for the axle end: Indispensable. You gotta have one. I keep 2 of them in my toolbox for pulling brake drums off. 2" version is my favorite, gives you room to hold on.
You need a lot of grease.
Gloves are very handy. But 100 might be more than you require.
also-- a roll of paper towels (or 2, or 3) is very handy. Newspaper doesn't wipe grease off as well as paper towels.
the used paper towels can be smashed into a TP tube and make an excellent fire-starter. Burn well before cooking, but they really fire right up to get wood started.
but, if you are forced to go it without, here are some 'cheaters'
instead of a brass drift- a socket extension can be heated red hot, tempering it. it'll get hard pretty quick, but will not destroy the studs while you whack the cone washers. a brass drift is better, but not *necessary*.
Seal Puller: I grabbed some channel locks and took them apart-- it yields 1 part that is more or less a seal puller. Not nearly as good as a cheap $10 auto store part, but available in nearly any toolbox at nearly any hour. Just pull the nut/bolt out of the two halves.
Seal Driver: a large socket and/or a chunk of wood works decently. Not as well as the 'real thing' but reasonably well.
studs for the knuckles: I used some bamboo skewers, they held my junk in place,mostly. studs would be better. if you've got access, use them. if not, look around, there are a lot of random items that are about the right size. Close enough, anyway.
8x1.25 bolt for the axle end: Indispensable. You gotta have one. I keep 2 of them in my toolbox for pulling brake drums off. 2" version is my favorite, gives you room to hold on.
You need a lot of grease.
Gloves are very handy. But 100 might be more than you require.
also-- a roll of paper towels (or 2, or 3) is very handy. Newspaper doesn't wipe grease off as well as paper towels.
the used paper towels can be smashed into a TP tube and make an excellent fire-starter. Burn well before cooking, but they really fire right up to get wood started.
I am planing ahead and will be doing this to get it out of way and cause of this does notseem that intimidating. More or less just making sure to do all steps and remember them and have all stuff before you dive into it!
Just finished my birfs/brakes. This FAQ was a huge help. It would have had taken a lot longer without all the tips and pointers.
Took me about 8-10 hours over three days (not my DD). It was my first time. Day one, pull everything apart. Day two, clean everything. Day three put it all back together.
#18 says to use wheel bearing grease for the trunions, I stuck with the moly since that what my FSM lists and because they are exposed to the knuckle
I replaced my wheel bearings. I tried the various suggestions for pounding in the races without any luck. Heating the hub and cooling the race didn't work and a brass drift was useless. I finally cut a slot in one of the old races with a die grinder and used it as a sleeve with a press (also needed the 2-1/8 socket for the front race since it sits so deep in the hub). They just slide right in, that was easy. I can't imagine seating them any other way. Worth a trip to a local shop/garage if you don't own a press.
Would have liked to drill the axle shaft for a grease zerk, but didn't plan this out and couldn't be without my 80 while I sorted out a machine shop to do the work. Something to think about if you want to get your 80 back on the road quickly.
Took me about 8-10 hours over three days (not my DD). It was my first time. Day one, pull everything apart. Day two, clean everything. Day three put it all back together.
#18 says to use wheel bearing grease for the trunions, I stuck with the moly since that what my FSM lists and because they are exposed to the knuckle
I replaced my wheel bearings. I tried the various suggestions for pounding in the races without any luck. Heating the hub and cooling the race didn't work and a brass drift was useless. I finally cut a slot in one of the old races with a die grinder and used it as a sleeve with a press (also needed the 2-1/8 socket for the front race since it sits so deep in the hub). They just slide right in, that was easy. I can't imagine seating them any other way. Worth a trip to a local shop/garage if you don't own a press.
Would have liked to drill the axle shaft for a grease zerk, but didn't plan this out and couldn't be without my 80 while I sorted out a machine shop to do the work. Something to think about if you want to get your 80 back on the road quickly.
I just finished and I thought I would throw in my 2 cents. To the tool list, I would add a hammer in between a rubber mallet and a 4lb maul. I used a 1.5lb dead blow hammer i picked up cheap at Harbor Freight. It came in very handy as it was much heavier than the rubber mallet and it has a plastic face so I used it to pound metal (including races) without worrying about marring the metal. I also used a bearing/seal driver kit and a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight. I didn't buy these specifically for this project so I don't know if the cost would justify a single purchase (~130 bucks for both). However, it sure was nice not having to beat those hub races in by hand.
I did my rotors, brakes and rebuilt the calipers during the axle maintenance. Overall it took me about 3+ days to finish. If I were doing it again, I could probably do it a whole lot faster.
Some things I would do differently to speed up (in no particular order)...
1. Make sure I had EVERYTHING before I started. Nothing like having to borrow a car to run to the parts store.
2. Don't be afraid to beat the heck out of the hubs studs with a brass drift and 4lb maul when trying to get the cone washers off. I played with it for a long time until I started to use the heavier hammer and they popped right off.
3. Don't even try to use the OEM anti-squeal pads when putting 100 pads on with a new rotor. They don't fit and you can't force them in. Wasted a good hour learning that.
4. I could do preload alot better now. Not really sure how to speed that one up. Having never done car bearings before, it just had a bit of a learning curve.
5. Make sure the axle is lined up properly in the knuckle housing before you torque the spindle on. Not real proud of that one.
It sounds like a small thing, but having the #10 threaded rods to hold the spindle and all its stuff was very helpful and I wouldn't want to try to line everything up it without them.
I did my rotors, brakes and rebuilt the calipers during the axle maintenance. Overall it took me about 3+ days to finish. If I were doing it again, I could probably do it a whole lot faster.
Some things I would do differently to speed up (in no particular order)...
1. Make sure I had EVERYTHING before I started. Nothing like having to borrow a car to run to the parts store.
2. Don't be afraid to beat the heck out of the hubs studs with a brass drift and 4lb maul when trying to get the cone washers off. I played with it for a long time until I started to use the heavier hammer and they popped right off.
3. Don't even try to use the OEM anti-squeal pads when putting 100 pads on with a new rotor. They don't fit and you can't force them in. Wasted a good hour learning that.
4. I could do preload alot better now. Not really sure how to speed that one up. Having never done car bearings before, it just had a bit of a learning curve.
5. Make sure the axle is lined up properly in the knuckle housing before you torque the spindle on. Not real proud of that one.
It sounds like a small thing, but having the #10 threaded rods to hold the spindle and all its stuff was very helpful and I wouldn't want to try to line everything up it without them.
Inner and outer bearing
Romer,
Thanks very helpful for a newbie such as I. You mentioned cleaning the inner and outer bearing, why do we clean these are new bearing not included in Cruiser Dans kit?
thanks
Romer,
Thanks very helpful for a newbie such as I. You mentioned cleaning the inner and outer bearing, why do we clean these are new bearing not included in Cruiser Dans kit?
thanks
I am curious about the bearings too. If I dig this far into the truck, old bearings are not going back in unless new ones cost about $1000.
I am half done on my 40 axle rebuild, and I did not have the studs to line up the knuckle/dust cover/seal. I put a swipe of grease on the parts that would go next to a paper gasket, and stuck the gasket to it. That cut my number of parts to assemble down to 3. Then I put a bolt in the seal, held the dust cover up to the spindle and put the bolt(with seal attached) in.
I also found that a greese needle is a wonderfull thing for packing bearings. It fit in just behind the cage, and about 1/2 pump would fill that section.
It came in handy for the short side birfield as well. I chewed up the long axle splines with the C clip, and didnt want to do the same to the short side.
I tried the hose clamp and zip tie method of reinstalling the C clip, but neither worked for me. I ended up using a thin peice of sheet metal wrapped around the axle and then hose clamped that. It allowed me to keep the hose clamp from bumping the star as I was trying to assemble exerything. An empty brake cleaner can was the source of the sheet metal.
Keep up the good work. This thread is great!!
I also found that a greese needle is a wonderfull thing for packing bearings. It fit in just behind the cage, and about 1/2 pump would fill that section.
It came in handy for the short side birfield as well. I chewed up the long axle splines with the C clip, and didnt want to do the same to the short side.
I tried the hose clamp and zip tie method of reinstalling the C clip, but neither worked for me. I ended up using a thin peice of sheet metal wrapped around the axle and then hose clamped that. It allowed me to keep the hose clamp from bumping the star as I was trying to assemble exerything. An empty brake cleaner can was the source of the sheet metal.
Keep up the good work. This thread is great!!
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I need to pull my front DS hub off and replace the wheel studs - I have one stripped one and figure I'll just replace all 6 while I'm in there. Everything else is in good shape (new rotors & wheel bearings less than a year ago). I have the new studs, a 54mm socket, and now looking at the FSM I am wondering what else I may need, such as a flange gasket, snap ring, and lock washer - listed as non-reusable parts. Anyone have any luck re-using these, or should I just place another parts order? I wanted to do this tonight...
They may be reusable in a pinch. The paper drive flange gasket is delicate and may tear when separating the drive flange from the hub. The snap ring on the flange end of the birf is re-usable if it doesn't launch off of the snap ring pliers into a dark corner of your work space. Be gentle with the lock washer when straightening the tabs. Too many bending cycles will result in weak or broken locking tabs.
Thanks - that's about what I was thinking & I ordered up yesterday at the last minute. Better safe than sorry...
Just finished replacing my rotors/pads, used this discussion to help me with the job. It was the first time I did the front brake job and this write up/discussion was extremely helpful. I did snap off one of my bolts that the cone washer goes on and need to deal with that. Straight forward job and will be much easier the second time around...
Is it normal for a very small amount of grease to gather where the felt ring on the back side of the knuckle sweeps back and forth? Just wondering if I messed this job up. 
Over all the job was pretty straight foward and this write up was priceless. Great job to all who added to this.
Cannot stress enough the importance of detail and cleanliness. You wont regret it.
Over all the job was pretty straight foward and this write up was priceless. Great job to all who added to this. Cannot stress enough the importance of detail and cleanliness. You wont regret it.
Is it normal for a very small amount of grease to gather where the felt ring on the back side of the knuckle sweeps back and forth? Just wondering if I messed this job up.
normal
Apologies if I missed it in prior posts, but I'm about to dive off into this project in the near future. When telling a friend my intentions, he suggested using his electric impact wrench to save time and labor on the removal of the bolts. I see no references to them here. Bad idea? Good idea?
I am also going to be doing this next week, parts store trip tomorrow for all the grease and junk!
