80 Series Front Inner Axle Seal Comparison

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Working on various projects on the diesel 80 last evening, I noticed that I had something of a collection of Front Inner Axle Seals. Probably due to my ongoing front axle leak that refuses to die.

But I thought I'd take a few pics for anyone curious about the differences or with this choice to make. And there is a surprising amount of differences between them.

Left: OEM Toyota
Middle: Trail Gear
Right: Marlin Crawler EcoSeal



IMG_2009.webp
IMG_2010.webp
IMG_2014.webp
IMG_2016.webp
IMG_2017.webp


Interestingly, all 3 would sit in a different place on the axle, helping those with a worn in groove from the stock seal. I have heard rumors that some people have an issue with the Trail Gear seal not staying seated if you don't clean the area very carefully. You can see that Marlin added a grippy outer seal for additional security. Personally I prefer the metal casing on the Marlin. They also claim that they have a better spring design to maintain pre-load and double sealing lip.

So far this is all academic for me. I've only ever run the OEM and they always leak on mine after a few thousand miles. I suspect a very very lightly tweaked housing. I'm going to try the Marlin next and see if it helps at all.
 
I am facing this Same Leak Myself on Drivers Side. - Greasy Mess on inside of Tire.
Just purchased a new seal from Dealership $18.99.
Had the Axle Shaft Groove Welded Up and Turned to original Size for $70.
Next will be a New Shaft for $110 from Cruiser Outfitters ie CruiserTEQ.

Used CAMO Method on Youtube for Disassembly - CAMO Method for Birfield Joint
 
I have new(ish) RCV axles and may third set of OEM seals is currently in there leaking. So it's time for a new approach. I'm not in any way confident, it's more of a Hail Mary before I have to face the prospect of housing replacement.

The Marlins are very reasonably priced ($12), but shipping from them is brutal (I paid $17 for the single seal).
 
Have you seen the labyrinth style seals which don't use a lip, and instead rotate on themselves internally? Terrain tamer came out with them for the 80 a few years back, including the inner seal I believe. I'm planning to swap over to them when i rebuild my front hubs. Thread here discussing them:
 
If you are Putting in New Seals try Sleeving the Shaft with the SKF Speedi Sleeve.
Have heard Good things.

 
Here's a link to the Aussie terrain tamer site advertising the inner hub seal, so it should be a thing, if you can source it state-side:

In your first post Georg at Valley Hybrids says he keeps them in stock. Was 2 years ago but probably still does
 
Those look really cool. Especially for the rears.

But what I'm talking about here are the inner AXLE seal. Not in the inner HUB seal. Different animal.

Unless I'm missing something.
Sorry, you clearly wrote axle, but my brain parsed that as hub. It is almost 2am here though, so my brain is functioning even worse than usual.
 
From another thread:

"Terrain Tamer is the only vendor who offers a double-lip HD front inner axle seal --- 90310-35005HD"

@orangefj45 : Terrain Tamer's website shows a listing but has no images or details on their website for that seal, do you have any (images) and/or links to a description for that front axle (shaft) seal?

this is the seal that came in there kit i just bought, I'm only counting one lip. looks exactly like the OEM seal to me.

IMG_20260812_193000_520[1].webp
 
To keep things straight, what is the part number for the seal shown in post #11?

The HD (?improved) 80 Series front axle shaft seal apparently is Terrain Tamer part # 90310-35005HD
 
I have new(ish) RCV axles and may third set of OEM seals is currently in there leaking. So it's time for a new approach. I'm not in any way confident, it's more of a Hail Mary before I have to face the prospect of housing replacement.

The Marlins are very reasonably priced ($12), but shipping from them is brutal (I paid $17 for the single seal).
No guff I live maybe 200mi from MC so I just bought 4 sets of seals to make the shipping worth it 😂
 
To keep things straight, what is the part number for the seal shown in post #11?

The HD (?improved) 80 Series front axle shaft seal apparently is Terrain Tamer part # 90310-35005HD
This is the one included in the standard knuckle kit. Because of this thread I have a pair of HD seals on the way. they say that you can order an HD knuckle kit and get the better seal included. The HD is supposed to have 2 springs on each seal. I've had great luck with the genuine seals so far but nice to know what else is out there.
 
Guess next up is to give the TT seal a try.

FWIW the Marlin Eco-Seal lasted the longest so far. Light leaking after about 14k miles of abuse. Better than I expected.
axle OD correct? axle vent is 100% clear? using a good seal driver that doesn't bend the seal? spindle bushings/bearings worn out? crazy that you have had such an issue. it is possible to measure and see if the axle is bent. Im sure that it could be straightened also. Also possible to get a non-locker housing and cut it up to make the locker fit. i know your not supposed to need the knuckle centering tool/shims on the 80 axle but i wonder if you could use it to determine if the housing is bent or not?
 
New RCV axles, new spindle w/bushes, new vent port at the axle/line run high etc etc etc. Only one side leaks, I think the other is still on the first OEM seal I put in 65k miles ago. Lol.

Pretty sure it's the housing at this point. I have no idea what straightening would entail at this point.
 
New RCV axles, new spindle w/bushes, new vent port at the axle/line run high etc etc etc. Only one side leaks, I think the other is still on the first OEM seal I put in 65k miles ago. Lol.

Pretty sure it's the housing at this point. I have no idea what straightening would entail at this point.
I picked up a complete front diff assembly hub to hub, with rotors and breaks, diff centre, the lot, for $200 cash from a place that also had a slightly tweaked housing, and was doing the same as yours - oil seals leaking after a short while. They swapped in a complete replacement assembly rather than try and fix it. From what I gather it's technically possible to repair, but non-trivial. I'd price up a replacement housing from a wreck first, might work out being the best option.
 
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