Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (4 Viewers)

[KurtKuhn]

For the perfectionists in the crowd (you know who you are), here's an easy way to get 48 in-lbf on the 6 bolts attaching the inner grease seal assembly.

8 lbf. measured on the scale x 6 in. wrench = 48 in-lbf.



-KK

 

[GCRad1]

SLEE HD Inner Axles Seals vs. Toyota Factory Inner Axle Seals

Has anyone used the SLEE Inner Axle Seals?

80 Series Seal
Part#: STF1025 - $11.99 ea

1] Does anyone have any comments on using these seals?

2] Is this Slee Seal a replacement for:
TOYOTA #90310-35010 Inner Axle Oil Seals $6.26

I'm working on an Excel Spread Sheet for us too! Will post as soon as I compile hopefully everything for the Front Axle ReBuild - THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS!!!

Yes, getting ready to do the deed!

 

[GCRad1]

PARTS LIST - Test Run

OK, just making a test run on items - please help fill in the gaps:

90313-93003 Spindle Dust Seal [X2] $27.22 ea

43436-60011 Inner Spindle Gasket [X?] $ 1.14 ea

43435-60020 Outer Spindle Gasket [X2] $1.03

43204-60031 Dust Seal & wiper Kit [X2] $27.35

43422-60060 Drive Flange Hub Gasket [X2] $1.51

90311-62001 Wheel Bearing Seal [X2] $12.02

90310-35010 Inner Axle Oil Seals [X2] $6.26

90215-42025 Tabbed Spindle Lock Washer [X2] $2.81

90366-20003 Trunnion Bearings & races (Koyo: 30304AJR-2-N Hi cap) [X4] $22.38

90520-31007 Snap ring for outer axle [X2] $2.57

90126-12005 New style lower knuckle studs [X8] $1.57

94115-71200 Nuts [X?] $00.00

90201-12019 Flat washers [X?] $00.00

42323-60020 Cones [X?] $00.00

above items-------are the Re-Build Kit----------------------------

Below Items are additional that may be needed-----------------


90368-49084-77 Inner wheel bearings, Timken bearing #JLM104948, race #JLM104910 2 $50.90

90368-45087-77 Outer wheel bearings, Timken bearing #LM102949 , race #LM102910 2 $43.85

Option to above WHEEL BEARINGS: Auto Zone Timken wheel bearings and races 4 $63

43236-60020 0.10mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload 2 $1.39
43233-60030 0.20mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload 2 $2.73
43234-60020 0.50mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload 2 $3.01
43235-60020 1.00mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload 2 $4.06

90521-34005 C-Clip for Inner Axle to Birfield [X2] $2.69

XXXXX-XXXXX Birfields - Front [X2] $00.00

Tools:
09607-60020-01 54mm hub socket, SST 1 $32.95


If you can add the following - please do so by copying the whole line and add the appropriate info:
-Part Numbers
-Descriptions
-Qty's
-Price

 

[kjishikawa@msn.com]

Anyone know the torque to reattach rotors to hubs? Thanks

 

[KurtKuhn]

Has anyone used the SLEE Inner Axle Seals?

80 Series Seal
Part#: STF1025 - $11.99 ea

1] Does anyone have any comments on using these seals?

Some discussion here.

-KK

 

[RiggerFJ80]

I got everything disassembled with no problems except separating the hubs from the rotors are proving to be a bitch. I have a question... My outer axles, and obviously the diff are filled with goop from the worn seals. How do I clean everything out, short of taking the axle off and douching it with diesel?

Rob

 

[dkroth]

I got everything disassembled with no problems except separating the hubs from the rotors are proving to be a *****. I have a question... My outer axles, and obviously the diff are filled with goop from the worn seals. How do I clean everything out, short of taking the axle off and douching it with diesel?

Rob

Not sure about the 80's, but on the 40 you need to press/drive the wheel studs out of the hub/rotor to separate the two. That's in addition to two bolts holding them together.

As far as the diff fluid, you could just do a couple drain/fill cycles when you're done with the knuckles. Use cheap oil until the last fill.

 

[RiggerFJ80]

My question was about cleaning the grease/ gear oil soup out of the axle/ diff. I think I'll go with dkroth's suggestion and just keep changing gear oil 'til I get clean oil. As far as the hubs and rotors, I used an 18" breaker bar on one nut, and put my Hi-Lift handle on a ratchet on another. That broke the bolts loose in no time. Then I used a chisel to separate the two. Once I figured it out, it was easy as pie. Thanks for everyone's suggestions!

Rob

 

[kjishikawa@msn.com]

Is there a front and back side to the thrust washer? Mine looks scored on one side from the bearing and I'm thinking of flipping it unless its supposed to be that way. Also, anyone know the torque to attach the rotor to the hub. I'm guessing like lug nuts so 76 or 109 or is it something else altogether? Thanks.

 

[NaterGator]

Also, anyone know the torque to attach the rotor to the hub. I'm guessing like lug nuts so 76 or 109 or is it something else altogether? Thanks.

The spec from my '96 FSM is 54 lb-ft.

 

[GCRad1]

Hey guys,

any input the the "orange" items I have missing from the list:


43436-60011 Inner Spindle Gasket [X?] $ 1.14 ea

94115-71200 Nuts [X?] $00.00

90201-12019 Flat washers [X?] $00.00

42323-60020 Cones [X?] $00.00

XXXXX-XXXXX Birfields - Front [X2] $000.00

Gotta'get this Excel sheet finished and parts ordered!

 

[wxm]

Easy way to secure the seals to the back of knuckle

Just finished one side of the knuckle repack and found an easy way to install the wiper seal kit to the back of the knuckle.

Coat a thing layer of moly to the back of knuckle groove. The moly will help to hold the metal ring in place, then another layer on the other side of the metal ring which will "glue" the rubber seal in position. With both metal and rubber rings secured, it is much easier to bolt on the felt seal and half circle metal plates.

 

[iptman]

Finished my axle last night so I figured I'd share my experience and a couple pics.

1. 2 sets of hands make this job a lot easier even if that extra set has never touched a Land Cruiser before.
2. Get a 100 count box of nitrile gloves (yes a 100 count, you'll see).
3. 1 1/2 ton jacks won't cut it. Your stock bottle jack will do fine on anything OME heavies and lower.
4. If this is your first time double down on the brake cleaner.
5. Inspect your bearings and races before you pound them out. If they look good don't take out the races. If you do replace the races (or pound them out anyway like I did ) this is how I got them back in. Put the hubs in the oven at 275F for 20 minutes. Put races in the freezer (in ziplock) for that time as well. Then use your brass hammer and BFH (as in the picture below) to get the races seated. I wasted at least an hour trying to pound in the races with my 3/8 inch brass drift before using this method and seating them in 5 minutes. The brass drift just doesn't give you enough surface area. Also, if you are using a drift and rounding off the ends a nice concrete sidewalk doubles fine as a file to flatten it back out.
6. Use a grease gun with flexible hose to fill in the knukle housing. Your extra set of hands from item 1 can pump the gun while you carefully guide the grease where you want it.
7. Don't forget the thrust washer from the PS hub .
8. The FSM says 26 ft/lbs for the drive plate bolts but IdahoDoug says it's in inch/lbs. I never found any number associated with this claim on this here forum but I did find people saying the broke these bolts by using the FSM spec of 26 ft/lbs. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and just got them good and tight to seat the cone washers.
9. The filler and drain plug for the front diff is 24mm. Get a 6 point socket. Resist the temptation of using a 12 pointer. A 6 point 24mm impact socket from Craftsman fits inside the ring.
10. If you're replacing your rotors and pads (100 series), keep the old pads to use with a large C clamp to compress the caliper pistons. Compress them very slowly, one side at a time. If you compress them fast the opposite side will come out slightly and you won't be able to get the new 100 series pads in.
11. Get a set of small wire brushes to clean the grime off EVERYTHING.
12. 400 then 600 grit sand paper will take care of the rust that might build up on the back side of the knukle (see pic below).
13. Print every post from this thread on page one (42 pages printed...do it at work). Have the FSM handy too.
14. An impact is very handy. I can recommend the Snap On CT4410. Tell your wife it's better than paying a dealer $2,000 to do the service.
15. Having access to a garage helps spread this project out over a weekend.

That's all I can think of right now. Thanks everyone who contributed to this thread and provided pictures and tips. Couldn't have donethis without you guys.

-Patrick

 

[RedTacoma]

Finished my axle last night so I figured I'd share my experience and a couple pics.
....

-Patrick

So what you saying you did the hard way
Its easier to remove races if you bolt hub back to wheel and laydown on the floor. Wheel provides weight and stability (the same for pressing races in)
'
You can press races very easily if you smudge them with grease and use - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

to drive races in (same tool for all your seals, best $30 ever spend)
I am not sure about reusing races. I know people say its OK but I would not do that. Bearings come with new races why not use them to keep alignment correct.?

 

[SiRaDuDe]

I just noticed some areas in this thread which could be improved.

Re-installation start

The diagram below shows the knuckle and associated parts

Oddly the diagram does not show the dust cover.

Place the dust cover, dust seal and a new gasket on the spindle.
torque the 8 bolts to 34 ft-lbs.

Shouldn't the order read... Dust Cover, gasket, Dust seal?

 

[cruiser 51]

I red on here to swap sides if your clicking. i was told by slees guy that if you are clicking it is to late to swap sides that you need new birfs is that true or not, i would like to do this but i need to know if i need to buy new ones or not . thanks for any info.

 

[Beowulf]

... but i need to know if i need to buy new ones or not

There is "clicking", and there is "Clicking", and there is "CLICKING". Which do you have?

Also... you probably should start a new thread and reference back to this one because this is a FAQ thread so discussion and questions should be limited to the maintenance topic itself and not to your specific issues lest we get off topic.

-B-

 

[concretejungle]

True B. Mod, can you delete these three posts (including mine) so we can keep it tech? Thanks.

 

[billmiranda]

Was reading on one of the British Land Cruiser sites... a gentleman that had decades of Toyota experience as a mechanic/hobbyist was saying that the preload settings were fine if we were going to be putting on the stock tires but with the extra leverage of larger tires, the FSM specs go all to hell,.. which might explain why a lot of people using 35s+ may have bearing issues. Can't remember his particular specs (I'll look for them) but he set his preloads a lot higher and states that in 10s of thousands of miles,.. no issues at all.

here's another good addition to the FAQ,.. lots more pictures. I like pictures...

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5905

Bill

 

[iptman]

I have to do a complete front brake job with new roters, i was planning to do a axel rebuild in te spring but if it is worth doing everything at once then i might do both at the same time. Just got the 94 lc and do not know when the axels were rebuilt and how much are the rebuild kits for the front axel anyway?
thanks

You're going to ask a question in an FAQ thread which extensively covers this topic? Don't be that (FN) guy. It's only 6 pages man...do yourself a favor, take a week and read every page of every FAQ. Then if your question still isn't answered use the search. Then if you still can't find the answer, you're probably not searching well enough b/c 99.9% of everything that could be asked has been and answered in this forum.