Which seals are you talking about? The ones on the back of the knuckle, sometimes called wiper seals?
-B-
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (1 Viewer)
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Which seals are you talking about? The ones on the back of the knuckle, sometimes called wiper seals?
-B-
chapel gate
GOLD Star
"If you buy your parts from a reputable source (Toyota, Marlin, etc.), the wiper seals should be in the correct order in the packaging. This was a "revelation" I experienced a year or so ago and thought "how ingenious"...at least the OEM stuff is already in the correct order from the knuckle housing out: steel ring, rubber ring, felt ring, then the two interlocking/ocerlapping steel rings."
my after market ones came like that, but the ridge on the rubber seal was facing the wrong way. or, at least i hope they were the wrong way round...
halfway through doing this myself.
on thing that did spring to mind was how many preload shims should be there from new? mine had one, whose to say a some havnt been removed to take out play as the trunion bearings became worn?
my after market ones came like that, but the ridge on the rubber seal was facing the wrong way. or, at least i hope they were the wrong way round...
halfway through doing this myself.
on thing that did spring to mind was how many preload shims should be there from new? mine had one, whose to say a some havnt been removed to take out play as the trunion bearings became worn?
AFAIK, one. Nobody has ever mentioned theirs having more than one. Toyota might have used a different size on mine than yours, or left to right, but there should only be one shim.
-B-
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chapel gate
GOLD Star
thanks beowulf, that good to know.
BenMara
Asian Redneck
pn# 90311-62001 seal behind the inboard wheel bearing, when installed on spindle
What are the methods are the methods on removing the seal and inner bearing race (brass punch for rem race?)
Anyone thought or use Green grease for bearings and filling the knuckles?
What are the methods are the methods on removing the seal and inner bearing race (brass punch for rem race?)
Anyone thought or use Green grease for bearings and filling the knuckles?
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I believe it would be possible to remove and reuse that seal in an emergency where you had a spare wheel bearing but not a seal. You could carefully tap it out from inside the hub using a brass drift and tap it back in after replacing the wheel bearing. If this is a routine maintenance then get a new seal even if you have to use a non-Toyota seal for that one.
I'm not familiar with the brand "Green" grease. If you are talking moly grease then you should avoid it if possible and use a wheel bearing grease for the wheel bearings and a moly grease for the knuckles.
Use a brass drift to remove wheel bearing races. (Have you read this entire thread?)
-B-
I'm not familiar with the brand "Green" grease. If you are talking moly grease then you should avoid it if possible and use a wheel bearing grease for the wheel bearings and a moly grease for the knuckles.
Use a brass drift to remove wheel bearing races. (Have you read this entire thread?)
-B-
One question on the Marlin seals, do you still need to use the spring that is behind the stock axle seals with the Marlin seal? Thanks.
The spring should be part of the seal; stock or Marlin or anything else.
-B-
-B-
Thanks B
peytonkristen
SILVER Star
Sorry I'm just now getting to this but have been out for a while...... The Marlin Seal has worked great so far. With the Marlin Seal there is absolutely no guessing. You drive the seal in until the outer lip is flush against the axle housing and you are done.
And for the seal tool.... I have never used a seal tool on any of my rigs until now but once I encountered the problem with the spring and the OEM seal I decided I would give it a try. The seal tool really helps because the seal actually sits on the tool itself. The tool doesn't allow the seal to flex as you drive it into place because of an inner rim of the tool being inside the seal. Its probably not for everyone but it sure does give you some piece of mind when installing this critical part. I would recommend buying one since it's not that expensive.
Birfield Update--6MAR09:
Well, after about 30K miles on the new spindles with the roller bearing/bronze bushing combo, I am very impressed with this upgrade taken from the 105-series cruiser. The spindle was spotless, the roller bearing inside was still nicely greased and rolled perfectly. The shaft of the spindle did not have any scoring, or scarring from a bearing being too loose and flopping around in there. No gauging as well. I am now very much convinced that being a slightly tighter on the wheel bearing preload is key to keeping good spindles. The bearings--Timkens--were in great shape and are being reused. The trunions I replaced for s***s and giggles because they are so cheap and I have a ton of them staring at me everyday. The birfs for a 200K truck were also in very good shape with even wear patterns and no abnormalities in the casting or in the bell of the birf.
I also did a rear axle job and installed the Poly Performance Rear Axle shafts that you can buy directly from PP or from Slee Off Road. I'll report at a later date regarding how they do on the trail. For now, I have some trail spares and that makes me giddy since those of you who know me know that I tend to "break" things on the trail.
Anyway, this is birf job #4 for my rig and the last time I went in was in March of 07 right before I moved from OH to ABQ. I am very happy with the performance of my greases--regular non-synth Valvoline for the moly and some cheap wheel bearings grease from Tractor Supply. No rusting or anything, no galling of the bearings or the races--the races didn't even have roller patterns embeded in them like some of my previous wheel bearings races had.
In any event, some pics for those interested.
Cheers.
-onur
Well, after about 30K miles on the new spindles with the roller bearing/bronze bushing combo, I am very impressed with this upgrade taken from the 105-series cruiser. The spindle was spotless, the roller bearing inside was still nicely greased and rolled perfectly. The shaft of the spindle did not have any scoring, or scarring from a bearing being too loose and flopping around in there. No gauging as well. I am now very much convinced that being a slightly tighter on the wheel bearing preload is key to keeping good spindles. The bearings--Timkens--were in great shape and are being reused. The trunions I replaced for s***s and giggles because they are so cheap and I have a ton of them staring at me everyday. The birfs for a 200K truck were also in very good shape with even wear patterns and no abnormalities in the casting or in the bell of the birf.
I also did a rear axle job and installed the Poly Performance Rear Axle shafts that you can buy directly from PP or from Slee Off Road. I'll report at a later date regarding how they do on the trail. For now, I have some trail spares and that makes me giddy since those of you who know me know that I tend to "break" things on the trail.
Anyway, this is birf job #4 for my rig and the last time I went in was in March of 07 right before I moved from OH to ABQ. I am very happy with the performance of my greases--regular non-synth Valvoline for the moly and some cheap wheel bearings grease from Tractor Supply. No rusting or anything, no galling of the bearings or the races--the races didn't even have roller patterns embeded in them like some of my previous wheel bearings races had.
In any event, some pics for those interested.
Cheers.
-onur
And just a few more....
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
man I wish you had posted up re: the roller bearings for the spindle about a week ago... I would have gotten some for the re-rebuild I'm doing on the driver's side.
I'm about to search this thread for more info, but if it isn't already covered: do you have a part # for those bearings? are they in addition to the regular bushing? Or do you need a different bushing? if I can source a timken bearing (or Koyo) I'll probably add it to the mix when I re-rebuild next week.
I'm about to search this thread for more info, but if it isn't already covered: do you have a part # for those bearings? are they in addition to the regular bushing? Or do you need a different bushing? if I can source a timken bearing (or Koyo) I'll probably add it to the mix when I re-rebuild next week.
Which bearings? Are you talking about the spindle roller bearings? Or the Trunions or the wheel bearings?
The newer style roller bearings in the spindle are only available with the purchase of a new $pindle last I heard.
That used to be the case 2 years ago.
Now, thanks to Dan, those roller bearings are now sourceable for stock spindles that do not have the roller bearings and only have the bronze bushings and sleeve going down (these were the stock ones that we received as OEM from Toyota when these rigs came into the country).
Give Dan a call and he can order these for you and you can re-use your old spindles.
-o-
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
I refer to the spindle-roller-new-fancy-bearings.
Wish I knew about this 2 weeks ago when my wife was in Santa Fe.
Oh well.
I'll just go with what I've got for now. No need to complicate things at this juncture, the spindles/shafts looked just fine last I checked (a month ago). Just love the opportunity for an upgrade.
Wish I knew about this 2 weeks ago when my wife was in Santa Fe.
Oh well. I'll just go with what I've got for now. No need to complicate things at this juncture, the spindles/shafts looked just fine last I checked (a month ago). Just love the opportunity for an upgrade.
Great write up, Ken! Just to clarify that in Post# 28, you mentioned to use 8x1.25 bolt to pull the axle out for snap ring installation; but in later post someone else mentioned a 10x1.25 bolt. Could someone confirm which one it is? Or I can verify once I get there. (Not matter to me as I believe I have both in my tool box, but it might benefit someone else.)
