Freds40 builds a 60

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GM488T designates a "thick" gearset.

It's actually pretty easy. For some reason they decided to have 2 different carriers so that the ring gears would not have to be too thick. Why this is an issue I have no idea. The thickness is because as you remove teeth from the pinion. It gets significantly smaller. The ring gear has to be "moved" closer to the pinion to make up for the lost teeth.

But, aftermarket dealers have noticed that there are a hell of a lot more "thin" carriers than thick (and the aftermarket lockers are generally the 4.10 and down gearsets, not all, but a lot) so they started making gearset that worked with the more common carriers.
 
GM488T designates a "thick" gearset.

It's actually pretty easy. For some reason they decided to have 2 different carriers so that the ring gears would not have to be too thick. Why this is an issue I have no idea. The thickness is because as you remove teeth from the pinion. It gets significantly smaller. The ring gear has to be "moved" closer to the pinion to make up for the lost teeth.

But, aftermarket dealers have noticed that there are a hell of a lot more "thin" carriers than thick (and the aftermarket lockers are generally the 4.10 and down gearsets, not all, but a lot) so they started making gearset that worked with the more common carriers.
 
I figured it was something like that.

I have a 4.11 14 bolt with the thicker carrier and thus the thinner gears.

Nice to know I can keep the carrier and just use the thicker gears as I go to a numerical higher ratio.
 
i want goodies like that!
 
I had planned on throwing 4.10s in the axles to bring the RPM up a couple of hundred on the freeway but decided to go with 4.88s as they will be better with some future mods I have planned. The 2 missing packages are my ARBs. I'm really looking forward to the back end being open for more street driving. It makes it tough to drive it on the street when you're tearing the tires up just going around a corner.
 
I must say i am more of a fan of the 70s and 80s but this 60 is nice!
Good job mate i love it.
 
After a bit of down time my pile needs some attention. I need to get it ready for the Tin Benders Jambo and for Cruise Moab the Week after.I've got a small list of "todos" but they definitely need "tobedone" :lol:

The front diff is built and ready to drop in thanks to one of the guys at work.

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I've been running our 25mm pin kit since the beginning but my lower caps have been prototype caps. To aid in "flashing the company wares" I decided to throw on the machined lower caps our kit now comes with. I'll save the others for some other project down the road.

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I've got some other ideas for the steering that I hope to explore in the next couple of weeks as well. We'll see how that turns out. :cool:

My PS gear box started leaking pretty bad from the input shaft on our last Rubicon trip. I grabbed a rebuild kit to take care of it but I am thinking of just having our rebuilder take care of it for me as it will save me a bit of time.
 
Do the 25mm pin kits help prevent the trunion bearings from brinnealing ( did I spell that right? ) when running wide tires on wide offset or spaced out rims?
 
i love your freaking 60, im an inch smaller in tires and havent moved my rear axle but im gettin there!

I wish i worked at marlin, seems like it would be fun.
 
Brendan-

I've been considering the upgrade of the lower pin/bearing. Is just that alone worth it? I have 4x4 Labs arms and could concievably press out the pin and install that one. Have you guys ever done that?

BTW-Thank you for the help the other day. I've got my 14 bolt disc conversion underway and will be soon needing the master you guys sell.

Great build pages. I don't know how many times I've read the 14 bolt section.
 
I'd like to add those on the next front axle rebuild. They look substantially bigger.
 
Brendan-

I've been considering the upgrade of the lower pin/bearing. Is just that alone worth it? I have 4x4 Labs arms and could concievably press out the pin and install that one. Have you guys ever done that?

BTW-Thank you for the help the other day. I've got my 14 bolt disc conversion underway and will be soon needing the master you guys sell.

Great build pages. I don't know how many times I've read the 14 bolt section.

The kit we sell does included pins for the arms as well. Luke's arms don't have a large enough bore for our pins. The arms just need to be bored out to accept the larger pins. We've done a few sets of Lukes arms and if you purchase the kit and send us your arms, we can bore them for the pins at no cost.

No problem on the info. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with on your set-up.
 
I'd like to add those on the next front axle rebuild. They look substantially bigger.

They've been working great for me. I always check my studs before every outing and they haven't loosened up yet and I haven't had any issues on the front end.

I'm looking at another steering mod mainly due to the weight of this pile and the tire size. Just to make it that much better. :cool:
 
Not to toot our horn but I love our HD inner axle seals. I've had many Toy front housings and this is the first time I've pulled the shafts on one and not had a sweet soupy surprise. In a housing that has no hope of being straight or true (tube sleeves installed by eyeball) and nothing in the knuckle balls but grease. :grinpimp:

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Not to toot our horn but I love our HD inner axle seals. I've had many Toy front housings and this is the first time I've pulled the shafts on one and not had a sweet soupy surprise. In a housing that has no hope of being straight or true (tube sleeves installed by eyeball) and nothing in the knuckle balls but grease. :grinpimp:

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i have to agree!!!

I pulled mine apart to replace a birf and do mu C&T for my SO and they were in there for over 2 years with many trips and no gear lube, some busted birf peices even tore up the driver seal and badly mangled and deformed it and still no gear lube!!

couldnt be happier with that product.
 

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