- Thread starter
- #221
the panhard needs to be moved out of the way for tie rod to clear. still working on that. but moving the panhard up on the axle or down on the frame wont solve all the problems.
fj80 high steer anyone?
- Thread starter billy138
- Start date
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Edit: Or are we talking about the rod that goes between axle and frame? In that case a taller bracket on the axle side should suffice, right? Sorry for hijack/digression
yes .. but you need to keep it parallel with the drag link ( related to the hi steer knuckle arm height and position ) so both must be parallel the solution must come more less married/related to keep the steering geometry .
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Correct. But even when they're parallel on a lifted truck you can still have drastic bumpsteer. As the suspension goes through the travel they don't stay equa-distant so the bigger the bump in the road, the more exagerated the bumpsteer becomes. To point that it's unsafe and those vendors have pulled the front drops brackets off the market. A friend got his hands on one and we tried it on his 4" lifted 80. Hold on to your drinks!
The pic of the drop bracket and description is still listed on the vendor page, it's just not available and hasn't been for sometime.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
It gets pretty crowded in the front pretty quick if you start moving stuff. Not knowing where Billy's arms will put the drag link I do not know what has to happen with the panhard.
On the Blueberry, we ran hi-steer with both tie-rod and drag link up front. Panhard was parallel to the the drag link. With 6" of lift, we had no bump steer. Here is a pic of the linkages,
On the Blueberry, we ran hi-steer with both tie-rod and drag link up front. Panhard was parallel to the the drag link. With 6" of lift, we had no bump steer. Here is a pic of the linkages,
did i miss the price for these?
It gets pretty crowded in the front pretty quick if you start moving stuff. Not knowing where Billy's arms will put the drag link I do not know what has to happen with the panhard.
On the Blueberry, we ran hi-steer with both tie-rod and drag link up front. Panhard was parallel to the the drag link. With 6" of lift, we had no bump steer. Here is a pic of the linkages,
Thats interesting because from the looks of that picture the drag link and the panhard appear to be different lengths by quite a bit. Usually you would want them the same length but then again I know that what you usually want and what fits and works can be 2 different things.
Its that picture that made me start collecting parts for my 9.5/FJ80 front axle.
its ok if there different lengths the trac bar and drag link have to be as close to parallel as possible so they pivot the same
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I thought there is no way to keep panhard and drag link same lenght in a 80 .. not if you are respecting ackerman angles ..
I'm with comp 4" in my 80 ( bull bar / winch etc on front ) and have more bump steer that I would like to have ..
Christo . . did you have no bump steer at all ?
Your links don't look in the pic complete parallel to the ground .. they do look parallel in between ..
I'm with comp 4" in my 80 ( bull bar / winch etc on front ) and have more bump steer that I would like to have ..
Christo . . did you have no bump steer at all ?
Your links don't look in the pic complete parallel to the ground .. they do look parallel in between ..
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Ideal would probably be same length and same angle in theory, however you can not really achieve that since the panhard mounts to the frame on one end. The picture was before bumpers, so the angles flattened out once the suspension was at proper ride height. it might have had a little bump steer, but nothing major. Also had hydro assist on that truck, so that helps by dampening it as well.
Alright that is good to know. It does look like if you keep them parallel the only time you should have any noticable bump steer would be on articulation. For the most part you don't see a lot of articulation at higher speeds and on road so that just leaves crawling and a little bump steer while crawling really isn't too bad unless you are getting really really technical.
I keep looking at that picture and from memory I don't think billys arm put the draglink any higher. But that is going off a picture and my memory so I could be wrong. It looks as though it should be doable but like you said its going to get tight. Front ends with links and linkage steering always seem to be 5lbs of poop in a 2lb sack. Throw a sway bar on there and make it even more interesting.
I keep looking at that picture and from memory I don't think billys arm put the draglink any higher. But that is going off a picture and my memory so I could be wrong. It looks as though it should be doable but like you said its going to get tight. Front ends with links and linkage steering always seem to be 5lbs of poop in a 2lb sack. Throw a sway bar on there and make it even more interesting.
Let me jump on the wagon here since i have the Slee hi-Steer kit on my rig and have asked all these questions way back when this thread started.
Clearance is the BIGGEST issue I have w/ my Steering setup and I had to modify several things to get it just right and running 1.5"ID .25 wall DOM for my links I Still have rubbing issues. Hi-Steer complimented with Hydro assist was a GREAT upgrade especially w/ the big rubber (sitting on a 6" slee + 2" body lift).
Clearance is the BIGGEST issue I have w/ my Steering setup and I had to modify several things to get it just right and running 1.5"ID .25 wall DOM for my links I Still have rubbing issues. Hi-Steer complimented with Hydro assist was a GREAT upgrade especially w/ the big rubber (sitting on a 6" slee + 2" body lift).
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
With coil springs located in that position its near impossible to attain same length, however if you were to run coilovers and they weren't positioned directly on top of the axle you could get much closer to attaining the same length.
I think these knuck's will sell regardless of the steering panhard conflicts.
I think a diamond or ruff stuff axle with a 9.5" centre, and 80 outers with high steer would be like the aftermarket toyota "creme de la creme" of axles for the mini truck crowd, and maybe some of the competition built trucks with lighter rigs. They might work better in a leaf spring or coiler over suspension, but the market who would buy knuckle housings like these are more likely to work those details out I suspect.
I think a diamond or ruff stuff axle with a 9.5" centre, and 80 outers with high steer would be like the aftermarket toyota "creme de la creme" of axles for the mini truck crowd, and maybe some of the competition built trucks with lighter rigs. They might work better in a leaf spring or coiler over suspension, but the market who would buy knuckle housings like these are more likely to work those details out I suspect.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Couldn't agree more. I see these knuckles on custom housings more than 80 series housings. The 9.5" yota dif seems to be the answer of the future. A 1ton yota axle?... That's what's up. These 8" difs just aren't holding up on the trail.
A 9.5" ring with 80 outers with Longs stuffed in there is the strength of a Dana 60. But it's a yota! yes! But damn who can afford a $4000 front axle?! Unless of course, if you got the parts laying around.
About the strength of a d60 but probably a tad bit lighter, that would be acceptable.
As for $4k for a front axle, I think with the ruff stuff's it'd be a bit less than that.
$595 for the RS axle, maybe 500 for an unlocked 80 front axle unless you got one for the balls hubs and brakes, $100 for a 60 series 3rd member, 750ish for longs with hub gears, 900 for an ARB, and around 300 for bearings seals and gaskets.
Well, maybe close to $4k...
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
hahaha. Yeah, it starts adding up doesn't it! And you haven't even included the links and hiems for the 3-link! Oh, and of course these knuckles or some type of hi-steer... cause the 9.5 dif won't allow the rear tie-rod. So hi-steer is another 800-1000... so... $5000?
Cause you also gotta buy a R&P to match whatever you're running and pay to get it setup...
the hybrid 60/80 front axle is in my very near future, i'll be using the ruff stuff housing, i already have longs 1 ton stering etc....i'll post a thread when i get around to doing it, if any one has some front 80 coil buckets cut off laying around let me know
- Thread starter
- #238
picking up the first batch tomorrow.
price??
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Not no more! just a few more hours now...
