fj80 high steer anyone?

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these arms are just for testing, they dont have the finishing machine work that the production arms will have, which will look a lot nicer.

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Hi steer knuckles

Lookin' great! Are you going to make arms to suit RHD and can they be made to accept standard TREs? How much and how far away are you from wanting a list of buyers?
 
Those things are huge! I like it :D.

So that is an 80 series front housing with your knuckles/arms on it? I would think the minitruck crowd will be happy to see this.
 
Looks good. Cant wait to see the finished product
thanks!
Lookin' great! Are you going to make arms to suit RHD and can they be made to accept standard TREs? How much and how far away are you from wanting a list of buyers?
thanks, and yes, these arms will have 2 holes per arm, so you get your drag link hole on the left arm.:D if there's enough demand i will do a run of standard TRE arms, but i know that they wont work with leaf springs. they also wont allow you to run them under the arm. i like the adjustability of the heim joint style arms, but like i said, if there's a demand i will make it happen.
Those things are huge! I like it :D.

So that is an 80 series front housing with your knuckles/arms on it? I would think the minitruck crowd will be happy to see this.
yep, my thoughts exactly.

thanks guys.
 
If I'm looking at the photos correctly it looks like the tie-rod sits forward of the housing. I can't tell by the photos but am wondering if the ackerman angles have been worked out/included in the design.
 
If I'm looking at the photos correctly it looks like the tie-rod sits forward of the housing. I can't tell by the photos but am wondering if the ackerman angles have been worked out/included in the design.

How could they be? ackerman steering takes into account the rear (fixed) axle distance from the front axle as well... doesn't it? Therefore his will be different than a cruiser.
 
How could they be? ackerman steering takes into account the rear (fixed) axle distance from the front axle as well... doesn't it? Therefore his will be different than a cruiser.

I probably should have read the complete thread before asking. Howver, since it was 6 pages long I shipped to the ending.

My question was based on the assumption that whatever vehicle this would be used on would have a rear axle of some sort (wheelbase unknown) and as a result benefit from some ackerman angle being worked into the design. Just looking at the pics it appears to me that no ackerman angle exists. Just my observation and question based on a picture that was taken from an angle that does not provide much opportunity to really see what is going on.

I hope that my question was not misinterpreted as bashing of any sort. Just asking...
 
I probably should have read the complete thread before asking. Howver, since it was 6 pages long I shipped to the ending.

My question was based on the assumption that whatever vehicle this would be used on would have a rear axle of some sort (wheelbase unknown) and as a result benefit from some ackerman angle being worked into the design. Just looking at the pics it appears to me that no ackerman angle exists. Just my observation and question based on a picture that was taken from an angle that does not provide much opportunity to really see what is going on.

I hope that my question was not misinterpreted as bashing of any sort. Just asking...
no worries, i never took you as bashing my design. yes, ackerman angle was designed into it, and yes it is a universal design. if you have a really short rig the ackerman angle might not be enough, and if you have a really long rig it might be too much. when you buy a longbed crew cab fullsize truck it has the same ackerman angle as a shortbed single cab. just wanted to put that out there before i get called out again.:lol:

thanks, -billy
 
Very very cool!

Got a question... As the standard shims don't fit anymore, what shims will be needed under the upper arm?
 
Very very cool!

Got a question... As the standard shims don't fit anymore, what shims will be needed under the upper arm?
none at all. shimming the arm to set pre-load can be time consuming and a PITA.
i don't like shims, so i found a better way to set pre-load. i hope you like it. just a 3/8" allen wrench, 1-1/8" or adjustable wrench, and 5 seconds later your pre-load is set. i took everything i hate about the mini truck knuckle and arm and improved it for this. i know this has taken a lot longer than all of us expected but i'm glad. if i had these available 6 months ago they would cost a lot more and they wouldn't have all the features they will have now.
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honestly I don't like the shims too .. looking forward on this bolt and nut method

all the 80 axles that I've torn apart have had the same .20 shim in them. If I remember right from a past thread all 80 axles use the same shim.

So if that is true there really isn't any reason to have a shim at all as long as you can hold the same tolerance Toyota did 20 years ago and work that into the arm design.
 
I don't understand the mini truck reference but these are 80 axles and having to have to deal with preload on the trunions is a step backwards in my opinion.
a step backwards? the shim doesn't give you any fine adjustability like this does.
all the 80 axles that I've torn apart have had the same .20 shim in them. If I remember right from a past thread all 80 axles use the same shim.

So if that is true there really isn't any reason to have a shim at all as long as you can hold the same tolerance Toyota did 20 years ago and work that into the arm design.

my machinist is more than capable of holding tight tollerances. what happens when the ball becomes slightly warped from welding on gussets or from hard landings? it is possible for the ball to fall out of spec, and this adjustability will ensure that you can always have proper pre-load. if toyota was so capable of holding tollerances then why did all the fj80's and mini trucks come with shims? because adjustability is needed, plain and simple. if you'd rather have one shim and no adjustment screw, i can set you up. you might be the only one though.
 
Who adjusts the shims on an 80 axle? I can't ever remember reading this here on mud.

Plenty of people have welded gussets on 80 axles, but maybe they just didn't post needing to alter the shim thickness after wards.

And I'm quite sure your guy can hold the tolerance. And that was my point. Given the consistency of what Toyota delivered with always using the same shim I would think you could capitalize on that and forgo using a shim or the screw adjustment thing.
 
none at all. Shimming the arm to set pre-load can be time consuming and a pita.
I don't like shims, so i found a better way to set pre-load. I hope you like it. Just a 3/8" allen wrench, 1-1/8" or adjustable wrench, and 5 seconds later your pre-load is set. I took everything i hate about the mini truck knuckle and arm and improved it for this. I know this has taken a lot longer than all of us expected but i'm glad. If i had these available 6 months ago they would cost a lot more and they wouldn't have all the features they will have now.

these are getting popular with dana 60's, there called a "springless" conversion kit, its a pretty good idea
 
Who adjusts the shims on an 80 axle? I can't ever remember reading this here on mud.

Plenty of people have welded gussets on 80 axles, but maybe they just didn't post needing to alter the shim thickness after wards.

And I'm quite sure your guy can hold the tolerance. And that was my point. Given the consistency of what Toyota delivered with always using the same shim I would think you could capitalize on that and forgo using a shim or the screw adjustment thing.

i don't know what else to say to you. if you dont like an adjustable bearing pre-load that takes a few seconds to set, then i am sorry. if i make all of these to your liking, will everybody else be happy with that? i'm open to input, but i'm not sure why you have such a problem with something that is user friendly and doesn't require removal of the arm for any adjustments that may need to be made. maybe you dont like this system, but so far i've had great feedback on this.

no hard feelings, -billy
 
i don't know what else to say to you. if you dont like an adjustable bearing pre-load that takes a few seconds to set, then i am sorry. if i make all of these to your liking, will everybody else be happy with that? i'm open to input, but i'm not sure why you have such a problem with something that is user friendly and doesn't require removal of the arm for any adjustments that may need to be made. maybe you dont like this system, but so far i've had great feedback on this.

no hard feelings, -billy

It makes complete sense. You say it's easier, but he's saying how can it be since it comes with NO adjustment needed. You are having to adjust it... that's NOT easier. Not saying it's bad, maybe it is good, but if it's up to me, then I'd rather not have to adjust it at all.

shimming the arm to set pre-load can be time consuming and a PITA.
i don't like shims, so i found a better way to set pre-load. i hope you like it.

This sounds like you are leaving it up to the end user as opposed to figuring it out like it is originally on an 80.
 

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