First valve adjustment on my 78 FJ40 ... (2 Viewers)

[honk]

Actually, BB is based upon a size chart for shot, typically used in shotgun shells. Sizes range from 0000 "Quadruple Ought" buckshot down to 'dust'. The original size BB was nominally 0.180 inch diameter, but the BB size for air guns was refined to 0.177 inch diameter.

Jeez 73FJ40, you realize that you just set a bunch of kids to worrying over whether the BB on their flywheel is exactly .180" or some other size don't you?

Popping in the exhaust could mean a lean burn, or mean nothing, or burnt exhaust valves, or incorrectly adjusted too tight exhaust valve clearances, or mean nothing.

Warm engine means at operating temperature not that it was started up and run a few minutes. Easy to make tight valves if adjusting when not at operating temperature.

 

[mrtodds77]

Sorry to comment on an old thread. I have my engine out after a rebuild. The dizzy and flywheel are not installed. I can get the 1st cyl to TDC and adjust but I am having trouble getting 180 off. It does not appear that one rotation of the front Crank is 180 as the 1st cyl is still almost at TDC. What cyl is at the top when you are 180 off TDC?

 

[Pin_Head]

There are two times that each piston is at TDC for every cycle in a 4 cycle engine. One is on the compression stroke, when the spark fires and the other is on the exhaust stroke. These strokes are 360 degrees apart in the crank rotation and 180 degrees apart on the cam shaft rotation.

 

[mrtodds77]

Thanks Pinhead, So I assume the same is true in a 2F 6 cylinder. So how can I tell which TDC I am at. The compression or exhaust stroke? The valves look very off to me.

 

[Pin_Head]

The same is true for all 4 stroke engines.

There are several ways to tell, but the sure fire way is to observe the valves. On compression, both valves will be closed. On exhaust, the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake opening.

As long as the cam shaft is properly installed with its aligning mark lined up with the one on the crank gear it is all good. All you need to worry about is getting the distributor installed properly so that the shaft engages the oil pump so you will have oil pressure.

If it turns out that the distributor is 180 degrees out, you just swap plug wires across the cap and now it is in time.

 

[thebigredrocker]

If solo, you can stuff toilet paper in the #1 and #6 spark plug holes to get confirmation of which cylinder is on compression stroke.

When you hear the TP pop from #1 you will be near TDC #1. While in 4th gear, move vehicle until you see the window mark. Or turn the crank with a wrench. This set of valves is:
Exhaust 1,5,9
Intake 2,3,7


When you hear #6 pop the TP you'll be on the next batch of valves.
Exhaust 4,8,12
Intake 6,10,11

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I'll pass on Jim C's prior post:

2F Engine: *Valve Lash: Jim Chenoweth on Valve Adjustment:

Run the engine to operating temperature. Remove air cleaner & valve cover. Torque the valvetrain (22 – 33 ft/lbs). Use a long 3/8 ratchet with a 17MM socket and crack all the adjuster lock nuts loose, (not the adjusters). With the key off, put vehicle in 4th gear, 2-hi. Rock vehicle while watching the timing window on bellhousing. You can easily move the engine in small increments by bumping the weight of the vehicle against it in fourth gear. When the engine gets to the TDC mark (the Line, not the ball) you can adjust half of the valves. Then bump vehicle (forward or backward, doesn't matter) to rotate the crank 360°, back to the TDC mark. Adjust the other valves. The two groups of valves are 1,2,3,5,7,9 and 4,6,8,10,11,12.

Rotate the engine until the No. 1 cyl is at TDC. (The pointer is on the TDC Line and the distributor rotor is lined up with the plug wire for No. 1 cylinder. This can also be determined by watching the valves for No. 6; when one stops coming up and the other one begins to go down.) Adjust valves numbers 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9.

Rotate the crankshaft 360°. (The pointer should once again point to the line on the flywheel. The valves for No. 1 will be reversing their travel and the distributor rotor will be pointing at No. 6.) Adjust valves # 4, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12. Reassemble and you're finished.

The valve arrangement is as follows:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
E I I E E I I E E I I E.

[Hot or as warm as they can be however fast you can pull the valve cover and tweak them up. J Zepp]

The clearances are: Intake/0.008" Exhaust/0.014"

Check and adjust 1, 5, and 9 with the .014 feeler, then switch to the 0.008 feeler for 2, 3, and 7.

.014
1 5 9
E E E

.008
2 3 7
I I I

Rotate the engine one revolution, so the rotor is pointing to cylinder 6 and check 6, 10, and 11 with the same 0.008 feeler gauge, switching back to the 0.014 feeler one last time to check valves 4, 8, and 12. Saves a little time fumbling for feeler gauges.

.008
6 10 11
I I I

.014
4 8 12
E E E

Sometimes the act of tightening the locking nut on the valve adjuster will cause it to move along the rocker shaft laterally, creating a false tightness. Make sure that the rocker is centered on the rocker shaft after you tighten it.

When you think you're all done, double check all lock nuts for tightness, this will tell you if you forgot to adjust any (Now you know why the FIRST thing you did was break them all loose.) Now you can start the engine (If you can plug all the disconnected vacuum fittings) and listen to how quiet things are, even w/the valve cover removed.

Also, the valve cover gasket occasionally comes loose, and reinstalling with this thing loose and not properly seated will cause some nasty oil leaks, blue smoke from under the hood. Not that I'd know. In my experience the valve cover gasket for a 2F from Toyota is rubber or nylon rubber. When mine came loose, I gave it a visual inspection, then cleaned it and the rim of the valve cover gently with a rag and some brake cleaner. I reassembled it with black RTV (between gasket and cover), put it on the tailgate and let a spare tire sit on it overnight.

While you're doing the valves you might as well check idle and fuel mixture settings on the carb and the distributor points and timing.
-------------
My own tip: I have the two feeler gauges, the .008 and the .014 removed from the pack, connected to each other with a ty-wrap to make the measuring process easier.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

What ever Jim C has to say is the gospel.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

What ever Jim C has to say is the gospel.

 

[randod]

I have read through tons of forums… searched the internet… my question is how do you know when the crank shaft has done one 360 degree revolution?

Can you tell by looking at the rotor? Do you mark the crank shaft pulley? Look at the valves?

probably a easy answer, but I am so frustrated with this easy task. Pardon my lack of mechanical knowledge.

 

[greenbeasty]

Usually by visually watching ( thru the inspection cover) the flywheel turn.

 

[randod]

Usually by visually watching ( thru the inspection cover) the flywheel turn.

So one revolution of the flywheel equals one revolution of the crankshaft?

 

[Steamer]

So one revolution of the flywheel equals one revolution of the crankshaft?

Yes. And two revolutions of the crankshaft and flywheel equals on revolution of the camshaft.
Flywheel is marked with a faint line for TDC and a raised bb for 7 degrees before TDC.

 

[randod]

Yes. And two revolutions of the crankshaft and flywheel equals on revolution of the camshaft.
Flywheel is marked with a faint line for TDC and a raised bb for 7 degrees before TDC.

Thank you both so much. Glad to finally have the answers so I can move forward.