First valve adjustment on my 78 FJ40 ... (1 Viewer)

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The diagram here was a life saver for me! Not to proud to say that I was confused by the " complete revolution " of the cam part. I thought that meant to give the engine a complete revolution:o So if anyone else out there is doing this for the first time what you need to do is turn the engine until the rotor is 180 degrees from Top Dead Center. There is a mark there too. And take the spark plugs out and take the distributor cap off. Then you can see when you're bumping the starter how close you are to TDC and you'll be able to turn the engine by hand to get it aligned.
 
just adjusted mine......used a remote start switch.....did not remove plugs.....just turned each cyl untill the valves were closed.......when they are closed they are closed.....no need to worry about anything else.......the whole job took me 1 hr....start to finish.
 
x2 with Pin head and harley. Just check when fully seated and adjust as necessary the rest is just technical jargon. Good luck!
 
what you need to do is turn the engine until the rotor is 180 degrees from Top Dead Center. There is a mark there too.
Thought this might be confusing. Remember there is only one TDC mark on the flywheel. The crankshaft and flywheel make "two" revolutions when the camshaft and distributor make "one". When the rotor turns 180 deg you'll be seeing the same TDC mark on it's second revolution.
 
Ok, so my valve gaps seem correct, I checked when hot and the engine running

but, the exhaust pipe makes sort of a popping sound. is that normal?

and I still have gobbs of torque+hp when the engine is nice an warm
 
I kind of have that popping noise at idle also. All seems well with the engine. I'm wondering if it's my old worn out muffler, maybe a resonance or back pressure thing? Popping goes away as soon as I give it a little throttle?
 
just adjusted mine......used a remote start switch.....did not remove plugs.....just turned each cyl untill the valves were closed.......when they are closed they are closed.....no need to worry about anything else.......the whole job took me 1 hr....start to finish.

Same thing here ... don't over complicate the job. While your doing this check your oiling holes at the top of the rocker (when it's running) to make sure your flow is good.
 
I have tried adjusting engine hot and off, and got them close, but still a bit of popping in he exhaust and just B+ performance. Today I Tried adjusting while running, and it was not that bad. the popping is gone and performance is much better ( A).
 
Agree with PinHead and the rest. Forget about all of the TDC and screwdrivers and all that mumbo jumbo.
Rotate the engine until the valve is closed and adjust it. I just put it in high gear and push the truck until the valve closes, adjust it, and move on to the next one.
 
It is the standard , 7* before top dead center.
Set the pointer to the bb by rotating the distributor.
 
There is an actual metal ball resembling a roller bearing or BB that is peened into the front side of the flywheel as a reference point. It looks just like the type of BB that would be used as ammo in an air rifle. That's why everyone calls it a BB. Nothing more to it.
 
Is it an actual abbreviation for something?

Actually, BB is based upon a size chart for shot, typically used in shotgun shells. Sizes range from 0000 "Quadruple Ought" buckshot down to 'dust'. The original size BB was nominally 0.180 inch diameter, but the BB size for air guns was refined to 0.177 inch diameter.

shot_sizes.jpg
 
:clap:
 
All great info but I will wait for my Uncle "the expert" before I attempt this-this thing is WAY too expensive for me to mess up then have to take to the mechanic.
 

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