First valve adjustment on my 78 FJ40 ... (1 Viewer)

[Gusb]

What a weird trip, finally found the BB (7 ½ degrees before TDC) in the flywheel window (bolt/cover long gone) and painted it so it would show up with the timing light. Still wasn’t sure where the TDC mark/line was.

Warmed the engine up and pulled valve cover, etc. At this point I ran at low idle and tried to check the gaps with everything moving. Not as much oil flying around as I thought there would be, but still hammered and immediately beat up my .008 feeler gage (tight intake valve I guess). Killed the engine and decided against adjustment while running.

I didn’t want to pull the plugs for engine rotation because I thought it would take too long with everything cooling off. Removed the distributor cap so I could tell where the rotor was pointing and put the vehicle in 4th gear and rocked backwards (with a flashlight on the flywheel timing window) to get to TDC with the rotor pointing at #1 (see diagram A). At this point I had trouble finding anything around my painted BB that resembled the TDC mark so I just went with the BB. Then I pulled on the emergency brake to make sure I didn’t accidently move the crank/TDC settings while leaning on the body to work.

Then it occurred to me I had no idea what was an intake and what was an exhaust valve. Trying to find some reference in the Haynes and other manuals – I finally came to what I have in the attached diagram. Is this the right take? I’m hoping the diagrams might help someone (if they are correct).

With the rotor pointed at #1 and flywheel at the BB mark did “A” and then, released emergency brake, flashlight on flywheel window again and rotated/bumped one full revolution (360 degrees) and stopped again at the BB mark to do “B” (see diagram).

In each of the 2 positions above, I did the usual feeler gage guess work trying to control tightening the nuts without changing the setting, etc. I may try to find one of those special wrench/screwdriver tools (do they make them to fit nuts that large) for adjusting valves in future. A bit surprised to see 17mm (large/thin) nuts on the rockers and breaking them loose with a standard combination wrench was “broken knuckle” awkward. The nuts came free much more securely with a Snap On “socket ended flex” 17/19 mm wrench I had bought at some point (now I have a good use for it).

Why can’t I seem to find the TDC mark? Wondering how far off the valves are now using the BB, seems to run a little better but I’m still messing with the carburetor adjustments. Anyone know which direction and how far (in inches) it would be from the BB (7 ½ degrees). Also gets me I can’t turn the crank somehow. Hate the bump in 4th gear and may resort to pulling the plugs in future.

 

[e rock]

Being 7 degrees off shouldn't affect the valve adjustments. It's not like there is a continuous movement of the pushrods - the valves are fully closed for most of the rotation.


And if you followed that diagram, you're right about the intake/exhaust placement. Front to back, it goes EIIEEIIEEIIE (you can also just visualize based on the location of the manifold ports).

 

[Copenhagen1]

I am just studying to do this also. I can tell you that in your first diagram, the BB is just out of sight to the north of that window.

I had trouble finding mine too because the line is very faint. While looking at the window my flywheel was turning counter clockwise. That is the way I was bumping it. I kept expecting to see the line after the BB. I finaly found it passing the window about an inch or less BEFORE the BB.

If you had the flywheel out and you were holding it in your hands looking at it, and you turned the BB to the straight up 12:00 position, the faint line would be at about the 58 or 59 minute mark. Make sense?

Copenhagen1

 

[Gusb]

I am just studying to do this also. I can tell you that in your first diagram, the BB is just out of sight to the north of that window.

I had trouble finding mine too because the line is very faint. While looking at the window my flywheel was turning counter clockwise. That is the way I was bumping it. I kept expecting to see the line after the BB. I finaly found it passing the window about an inch or less BEFORE the BB.

If you had the flywheel out and you were holding it in your hands looking at it, and you turned the BB to the straight up 12:00 position, the faint line would be at about the 58 or 59 minute mark. Make sense?

Copenhagen1

So hidden at the green dotted line in this picture, or the blue dotted line area?

 

[Copenhagen1]

So hidden at the green dotted line in this picture, or the blue dotted line area?

Blue dotted line. Again, mine was very faint almost non existant.

CH1

 

[D'Animal]

With your valve cover off, both valves on your #1 cylinder should be closed. Use a long screw driver to make sure the #1 piston is at TDC.

Use your timing mark to reset the timing when you are done. If you use just the timing mark you can be 180 dregees off.

 

[Pin_Head]

Note: You onlyneed to check the clearance while the engine running to find any that are too tight or too loose. Then you can stop the engine and adjust the ones that need it. You check using a go and no-go technique. If the .008 passes an intake, then it is not too tight. If .010 passes, it is too loose.

Also: You don't need to spend any time worrying about TDC and which valves to adjust. Just turn the engine in the normal direction until the intake valve closes fully and then turn it a few more degrees to be sure and you can adjust both valves for that cylinder. Repeat for each cylinder.

 

[BELMONT148]

I was planning on doing my valves this weekend. This is great info. I had a good handle on how to do it, but the manual references really turned a light on. Thanks guys, I feel prepared to do this now. Great FAQ stuff by the way.

Jeremy

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

The nut on the front end of the crankshaft of a 2F should have a couple of ears on it to engage a hand crank. In Canada these hand cranks came stock on the FJ45 and used to be available. It is worth your while to pull the plugs. As has been said, you don't need timing marks to set the valves. Just set your cylinder to TDC, if the valves are both closed set them. Continue for each cylinder. I found that if you check them at the recommended interval most of the time you will find they don't need adjustement anyway.

 

[Pin_Head]

I found that if you check them at the recommended interval most of the time you will find they don't need adjustement anyway.

This is why you check them when it is running. After 2 minutes of work, you often find that everything is OK and you are done with no more wrenching or mental gymnastics.

 

[3doghouse]

If you use just the timing mark you can be 180 dregees off.

360

 

[GussesCruzer]

So, I tried it too

I'm not sure why I always wait to do things like this, especially on the cruiser. WAY easier than on the motorcycles that I have done. While I was at it, I replaced the points/condenser at the same time. I now to have that finely tuned Singer sewing machine sound, and I like it.

I used the TDC then rotate 360 to do the rest method. I was surprised how easy it is to bump it over in 4th just pushing it. I was also surprised how little mess was made when running with the cover off.

I put it all back together with what I had, but decided to order some stuff from a dealer in Calgary.
Valve cover gasket $35.00. Mine was starting to crack, so I figured what the heck.
Little rubber washers bonded to the real washers, under the acorn nuts. $10.00 each! Little rubber / steel washers for the air cleaner $5.00 each. Only 2 days away 'though.

Guy

 

[NCcruiser1970]

This makes this weekend's project list WAY easier!

 

[Trollhole]

Note: You onlyneed to check the clearance while the engine running to find any that are too tight or too loose. Then you can stop the engine and adjust the ones that need it. You check using a go and no-go technique. If the .008 passes an intake, then it is not too tight. If .010 passes, it is too loose.

Also: You don't need to spend any time worrying about TDC and which valves to adjust. Just turn the engine in the normal direction until the intake valve closes fully and then turn it a few more degrees to be sure and you can adjust both valves for that cylinder. Repeat for each cylinder.

No see I thought I knew all the ways to do it. I've always done it at TDC and then bumped it over 360.

I guess if you don't know what your doing it's good to stick with the FSM.

 

[GussesCruzer]

Oh yah, and thanks Gusb! Pictures helped all the reading I did come together.

 

[josharre2000]

Valve Clearance Check (running)

This is why you check them when it is running. After 2 minutes of work, you often find that everything is OK and you are done with no more wrenching or mental gymnastics.

Pin_Head,

Any suggestions on checking the valve clearances on the back (firewall) part of the engine? It seems a little tight to get back there. The front valves look pretty easy to access. I got a couple sets of feeler gauges from napa-- just in case.

thanks,

Josh

 

[Pin_Head]

I never noticed a problem with the valves in the back. You just have to reach a little further. I never noticed the feeler gauge getting beat up, but it only takes a second to check, so it doesn't spend a lot of time in there.

 

[bsmith123]

valve clearance

when it was running --could it be beating up your feeler cause there was no gap? or too little?

Just to clarify on the screw driver method. this means taking the spark plugs out and sticking a long screwdriver in--then rotate the engine until the piston is at the top. TDC can be felt by rotating the engine back and forth --you will feel the piston come up and go down and there is a dead space in between where the screwdriver does not move at all. That is TDC--if you are on the compression stroke then both valves should be loose and you can move the rocker. Then just set the gap to a slight sliding friction on the feeler gage.

 

[josharre2000]

Should have my gasket from Dan today. I will report back with my progress.

 

[Pin_Head]

I think that some of the feeler gauges are soft steel, which is why they get beaten up and deformed. I have been using the same gauges for 25 years and they aren't deformed.

To check them on a running engine, you use a Go-NoGo technique: Just pass the minimum spec feeler gauge through the gap. If it won't go, it is too tight and needs adustment. I then use a gauge that is .002 larger to check for ones that are too loose.

When I find the ones that need adjusting, I stop the engine and adjust them. It is too big of a PITA to adjust them while it is running.

You can adjust any valve by just turning the engine and watching the rocker. When the rocker comes up and stops, turn it a few more degrees and then you can adjust it. There is no particular reason that it has to be at TDC.

Adjusting valves is not a high precision procedure. The main concern is that the valves aren't tight and seat fully so that they won't burn. They can be on the loose side and the only thing is that it might make a little louder ticking noise. You won't notice any difference in performance with the valves a few thousandths loose.