PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Ah yes, from the underside pics.
If it is not leaking, just leave it on. You might find a PTO winch to run on it!
Do you have the pillow blocks on the frame? Frame extensions out front?
First Time Pig "Build"
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
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Ah yes, from the underside pics.
If it is not leaking, just leave it on. You might find a PTO winch to run on it!
Do you have the pillow blocks on the frame? Frame extensions out front?
- Thread starter
- #103
It is, and while a PTO winch would be cool for the nostalgia factor, they're big $$$, and it'd be something else to contend with.
I'll have to get back with you on that, because I don't know, specifically, what those are..yet.
Smack! Wait, isn't the 80 section Chat anyway?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Oh, SNAP!
tucker74
Moderator
Back on track guys ...
Tucker
Tucker
Valves sound way out, but I would also check for an exhaust leak, wouldn't surprise me at all with the rust that you have some pin hole leaks around the manifold. I just throw out an F header too, damn. Am I also hearing a louder thud on occasion? Try snugging up the pan, but I bet you will need to take it off clean it and fipg to stop that leak. As for your brakes lights, check the harness near the driver's rear door, mine was bad there.
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- Thread starter
- #111
Maybe a combo of both.
If whomever built the engine has a dang thing to do with any other aspect of "repair", there's no telling.
Can't believe you'd throw anything out!! Haha.
Yes on loud thud. Almost sounds like a compressors kicking on in real life..... But there's no compressor.
You ought to see this harness. There are wires cut everywhere, some wired into groups of others, with no rhyme or reason.
Have the schematic coming, but thinking a new harness will be in order. Out to jury on.
You know how my wheels turn and with each passing day and discovery, the resolve to go overboard strengthens.
I love it.
I have a full used harness from a '74. PM me if interested.
- Thread starter
- #113
Please pardon my ignorance, but is that compatible with the 72?
Most of it would be. Some differences in dash (ignition in column as opposed to dash, different headlight switches, more smog stuff on the'74).
- Thread starter
- #115
Have a line on an advertised full 72 harness, but awaiting reply as to is actual condition. I'm not an electrician and don't want to compound issues further by adapting to an already adapted POS.
I can't tell WTF is going on with this one.
Looks like there's a trailer light hacked onto another trailer hacked harness, but no power from the individual hacks.
My plan, now, to appease to immediate needs.
Gonna load her up on the gooseneck, take to tag office for VIN inspection (it does have a title now, just on hold, which is good news, as is "72 PIG" availability. They disallowed "FPIG". Hahahaha)
then to buddy's shop for compression test (only, I swear), and pressure wash the crap out of her.
After, dismantling what of the interior isn't necessary and will be unused later.
Start ordering parts.
- Thread starter
- #116
So far, have the following arranged from Georg:
FJ60 knuckles
Knuckle kit with OEM bearings and seals
Front OEM wheel bearings
OEM brake lines backing plate
60 Series TREs (listed "Japanese". Hmm)
Tie rod and drag link 1/4" DOM
Based on that, ordering from CDan:
60 brake rotors
60 brake calipers
60 brake pads
Inner C clips
Which should complete the front brake conversion....right?
FJ60 knuckles
Knuckle kit with OEM bearings and seals
Front OEM wheel bearings
OEM brake lines backing plate
60 Series TREs (listed "Japanese". Hmm)
Tie rod and drag link 1/4" DOM
Based on that, ordering from CDan:
60 brake rotors
60 brake calipers
60 brake pads
Inner C clips
Which should complete the front brake conversion....right?
- Thread starter
- #118
To complete the front conversion only, just need axle to caliper, right? (Dumb question, I know)
Considering the overall condition of the balance of the braking system and rear brakes, was considering:
Front and rear axle to caliper/hub brake lines
Front and rear frame to axle brake lines
Rear pads
Based on this statement:
I don't know if the following should be rebuilt, or replaced, but will inevitably need to be addressed:
**Rear Cylinders**
Rebuild/Replace?
**Master Cylinder**
(Ok, I've read all the threads on converting to the 1" bore 80, but like to keep as much correct as possible. Stupid philosophy?)
Have located a new, OE master, if that matters.
**Booster**
(Know folks swap to others, too. Again, like to keep correct, but is that stupid, too?)
Saw that Mark's offer rebuilt with core. Not certain if rebuild kits are available.
Same with clutch master and slave. Rebuild?
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99% of the time rear axle bearings are fine. The seal is usually fine too, but it's a convenient time to replace it. Same with studs, while they're probably fine, they do stretch and it's a convenient time to replace them. I've had fne luck with the factory diff gaskets...fipg is a necessity on things like the lower timing cover, but on the diffs, I prefer the factory gaskets. Pighead will tell you I hate leaks.
Pighead prefers braided stainless in place of rubber lines. Length will will depend on the backing plates you get from Georg. 60 series goes through a t at the backing plate to a hard line, but can also be bypassed and go direct to caliper which might need a slightly longer line.
Pighead prefers braided stainless in place of rubber lines. Length will will depend on the backing plates you get from Georg. 60 series goes through a t at the backing plate to a hard line, but can also be bypassed and go direct to caliper which might need a slightly longer line.
