First Time Pig "Build" (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

Strip the interior, pull the doors and glass, pull the body and blast the body. Then you know what you really have. Sell the good running engine to an early 40/45/55 guy. Leave the frame on springs and axles blast the frame, and coat with Por15. Figure out your suspension AND what axles you want and build the mounts and links. Install your new drivetrain. Drop the body back on top and start cutting, to fit, and to repair the rust.

 

[Pighead]

Or just fix the brakes, fix the clutch and drive it....

 

[scottryana]

Not sure if his plans have changed but what he told me, he wants to run 37-39's with a V8 and a 3link/4link, with the possibility to DD it.

 

[Delancy]

Highly doubtful, as I see a hydraulic clutch master on the firewall, where it should be. .

Haha.

Guessed there was a linkage of some sort, my bad. Feel slack at the top.

Without having the benefit an FSM, I can guarantee that terminology and functionality errors will be prevalent.

Thanks for taking it easy.

Then again, it may fun to have you call C.Dan and ask for a clutch cable....

Considering the source, he wouldn't bat an eye.

It took a bit, but once fully transitioned from Onur to Dan, he knows I speak a different language but has become well versed, to the point of ESP-ish communication.

I call with what I think I need based on a symptom. Few days later what I really needed arrives.

I can think of half a dozen possible reasons why the clutch may not be releasing fully. There were two different clutch set-ups used in the early '70s, commonly called the 3-speed and the 4-speed. Or the diaphragm clutch vs. the fingers clutch.
Each used a different fork, fork pivot, throwout, throwout hub, slave push-rod, etc.
One must use ALL of the related parts from one system or the other, they do not mix and match well (well, the slave rod can be used from a 3-speed to a 4-speed if you cut an inch or so off of it...BTDT). Anyway, if one of the incorrect parts were used to reassemble the clutch, weird things could happen. Or, the throwout bearing is not retracting completely due to something... Or the slave cylinder is not allowing the fork to release completely...or something similar.
Also, the 3-speed flywheel is cut differently from the 4-speed, there is quite a step cut into it. perhaps a 4-speed pressure plate is getting hung up? Just grasping at straws at this point.
Many things to examine and test and adjust before you drop the transmission.

Thanks for the education.

I don't know what I'd be looking for yet, to determine if it's miss-matched, but beginning to think the PO twice removed, may have been attempting to mechanically restore.

Based on your observations, it sounds like key components of various years/markets may have been known, and not sure where else but here that'd be common information.

I would add to your shopping list rebuild kits for your slave master & slave cylinders. (and more brake fluid) perhaps inquire about having a new clutch hose made (mine is stainless, like my brake hoses).

Compiling, for review.

I'm glad to know that CDan's a resource.

Edit: Your stock 4.1:1 diff gears are just fine for now.

Gotcha.

 

[Delancy]

Not sure if his plans have changed but what he told me.

Slightly, but then you'd expect that.

Don't think the right candidate and the engine is the strongest point of this Pig.

This will remain mild, considering the complexity and lack of resources for the "dream" build.

80 stays the wheeler. If left to my own devices for this, the 80 may be ready for a body swap by the time this is done.

 

[Delancy]

Strip the interior, pull the doors and glass, pull the body and blast the body. Then you know what you really have.

Trying to determine the full extent of corrosion, then weighing options of swapping for a good shell, or repairing with bobm's offerings.

Think any option would be good to strip, but don't know enough about bracing nor alignment yet, to definitively state.

Leave the frame on springs and axles blast the frame, and coat with Por15.

Plan to take to frame for rust removal and abatement, but the axles may see similar and remain.

I'm waiting on your old one to come for sale again, in the meantime.

 

[Pighead]

I don't know what I'd be looking for yet

No, but you will eventually (hopefully after a trip or two through the pressure-washer, so black gunk doesn't fall in your eyes) lie underneath and, with the lower flywheel cover removed, watch closely as somebody works the clutch pedal. If it does not become obvious to you before somebody's leg fatigues, you will post pics and/or videos for us to point out the obvious.

 

[Delancy]

There's my plan then.

 

[Pighead]

Oh, you want to see how Ige & Pighead restorify a new-found non-running rig?
Check out or 40 build thread on your next sleepless night...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj25-owners-group/680945-little-orphan-annie.html

C.Dan (who is on a first-name basis with us) features prominently and was a great help. I've wheeled the Rubicon with C.Dan and Mrs. C.Dan. even sold my old 80 to C.Dan. It's a wonder he's still speaking to me...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

just FZJ that pig and be done with it you can fix the rust while you're swappin the bodies

 

[Pighead]

just FZJ that pig and be done with it

Meh...those 1FZs are so common these days; an old-school early F is a real head-turner.

Plus: If he had another 1FZ rig, he'd have to build a guest-house for Robbie...with an early F, he only needs a shack for the illiterate Aborigine....

 

[Pighead]

Without having the benefit an FSM, I can guarantee that terminology and functionality errors will be prevalent.

Check if SOR still has the Toyota F engine manual. Also a Haynes manual will help...

 

[Delancy]

Meh...those 1FZs are so common these days; an old-school early F is a real head-turner.

2UZs are a little less common, be it in a 1FZs spot or an F, both considered.

Been more impressed with 2UZ than the 1UR, by far, but they're not cheap to swap and very limited AT/TC options exist....plus a guy that's concerned about dressing in a loincloth with painted face to go Aboriginal on an F's ass may have no business with any of them.....yet.

Check if SOR still has the Toyota F engine manual. Also a Haynes manual will help...

Edited: I typed before reading above, but don't recall seeing.

Spent an hour searching for FSMs, turning up one for the F, then realizing it's the wrong one, anyway, according to description, so will have two for reference.

No luck on the Pig specific FSM. Only one found for a 67. Considering the variations, probably more harm than good.

 

[Pighead]

Probably no Pig-specific FSM, but the year specific (or close) will have a frame & body section that includes 55 stuff...

 

[Pighead]

just FZJ that pig and be done with it you can fix the rust while you're swappin the bodies

Y'know, Ige had a complete (I mean VERY complete, from dashgauges to driveshafts) 1fz drivetrain taking up space in the garage since I arrived. We discussed putting it in a Pig, or the 45 SWP, Just too darn complicated for us mortals. Figured it would take us YEARS to get it running. F & 2F swaps are more our speed. Sure, if we had a Robbie in our backyard, it would have been a go.

 

[Delancy]

Probably no Pig-specific FSM, but the year specific (or close) will have a frame & body section that includes 55 stuff...

For what I just spent on manuals, probably could've had the damn thing roadworthy.

Sure, if we had a Robbie in our backyard, it would have been a go.

Robbie ain't in mine, either.

 

[Pighead]

For what I just spent on manuals, probably could've had the damn thing roadworthy.

Not sure about that, but you could have bought a Corolla...

 

[Delancy]

Not sure about that, but you could have bought a Corolla...

Bahahahaha.

Cost 1/10th the LX450s FSM, which has been invaluable....especially to Beno and CDan's employer.

I'll digitize and publish as a PDF download for the rest of the mechanically challenged to get my money's worth.

I like having then around, personally.

Nothing like holding up traffic for forty five minutes, being high centered in the 80, PS gearbox spewing molten ATF from the adjuster nut, 3" thick FSM in grease covered hands, to ensure not over torquing the adjuster screw. Hahahaha.

So y'all can freshen up on the 1FZ to swap.

1996 FSM

 

[Pighead]

Nothing like holding up traffic for forty five minutes, being high centered in the 80, PS gearbox spewing molten ATF from the adjuster nut, 3" thick FSM in grease covered hands, to ensure not over torquing the adjuster screw. Hahahaha.

Well, welcome to the world of the Ancients...These old Pigs don't have no fancy computers to tell them not to run, they rely on the smarts of the driver. They don't care if the brake lights don't work, or if they're in neutral or not. A 1FZ won't start if you're low on oil...a Pig will trust the driver to get it some at your earliest convenience. A Pig will sacrifice itself for the owner if asked to, an 80 will not. I don't think the Pig has an adjuster screw that really relies on a specific torque..one hand on an end wrench will generally suffice. There's little on a Pig which cannot be rebuilt on the trail. But it's a double-edged sword...can you be smart enough to guide your Pig? Are you worthy? I don't have to point out how many have tried and failed. Becoming a Knight of the Iron Pig is neither quick nor easy. Do your reading and search your soul...

 

[Delancy]

Well, welcome to the world of the Ancients...But it's a double-edged sword...can you be smart enough to guide your Pig? ..

Wasn't smart enough buying mine.

Are you worthy? I don't have to point out how many have tried and failed.

Yes. I've no intention of failing, but as in any challenge, it's necessary to establish a clear, concise goal.

Becoming a Knight of the Iron Pig is neither quick nor easy. Do your reading and search your soul...

I've spent some time this morning getting her going. I was using IPhone to light my way, and unintentionally recorded several minutes of video, thankfully, that I'm going to upload in a few moments for all's review and input.

Now, y'all have been mighty respectful of my ignorance, which I greatly appreciate, so I beg continuation, as I'm seeking answers and moral support.

1. Once I got leads cleaned, sounds like a blower motor is trying to spin on the PS firewall. Just a loud humming, that I can't locate. Another description would be a similar sound to the 60 seconds it's takes my POS 6.0L Powerstroke's glow plugs.

2. Again, I know there's no compressor, but audibly sounded like one was engaging/disengaging until it warned up, then sounded like a knock. Hopefully video will be audibly clear enough for y'all to hear.

Few notes:

Brakes

No brakes. By none, I mean none.

Unfortunately, this is what's to navigate to take her around the facility, and unassisted, I don't feel comfortable backing out and damaging the buildings. Going after terminal clamps and possibly new leads and hope to round up a cohort to assist.



The steep grade isn't evident in pics, like always.

There's fluid..



There's this....



And the two rear bleeders are seized.

Now, I hate to reference my technologically, idiot proof PP80, but I've fought hell with the brakes on it, and there's nothing that hasn't been addressed, so by appearance, these seem to be within my realm of capability, but not really sure where to start.

Clutch

After having her running, which is merely a short in the positive lead, I wallowed back and forth within the 20' distance provided by this unit.

Hit it pretty good in both R and 1, and felt no slipping.

It's not until the very last stroke of the pedal that it disengages, vice verse going down, so I can see where a "slipping" diagnoses may be possible by PO, but I'm assuming (with heavy emphasis on "ass" part of assume) that it's something to do with the hydraulics between the master and slave cylinder, but I'm going to pull the cover, as you suggested, once I can get it out and degreased.

Fluid looks good!



More pics:

Evap control bypass?





Choke, or not to Choke?



Question answered for me.


TCs a leaker







Leaking at the front pan too. More in video