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I've never used a pickle fork. Your hitting it wrong. Never hit the threaded portion. As you found out, once the nut is tighten to spec, it really doesn't do anything. It's a backup safety thing. It locks the tapers together. To break a taper you need to hit the female portion of the joint/steering arm. You put the nut on to protect the threads from glancing blow & prevent the tre from dropping. It takes a pretty good smack or a bigger hammer. It'll break loose.
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You can borrow a tie rod puller from O'Reilly that works great for the Toyota TRE's. It looks like this one...

They have a little chart of all their tools they lend out. For this one it's like $36... and when you return it they refund you. It doesn't slip off and it works perfect for our style TRE's.
 
You can borrow a tie rod puller from O'Reilly that works great for the Toyota TRE's. It looks like this one...

They have a little chart of all their tools they lend out. For this one it's like $36... and when you return it they refund you. It doesn't slip off and it works perfect for our style TRE's.
I will look! I did use the jaw type. I may have to go back! Thank you!
 
Repainted the rods, installed new tie rod ends (witch are actually very specific on placement!), greased all the fittings, replaced steering bracket(?), and installed proper steering dampener. Steering is done!! @Honger wow those jaws did the trick!!! It’s all converted to OEM. The pictures are a little dark…

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those are not OEM bolts :p
 
They're not metric either. They're SAE grade 5.
 
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Little update:
working on getting my emissions set up up-to-snuff. Now that the state wants it tested… so I’m currently looking to replace or rebuilt my smog pump.

Also I got a nice addition to my original kit! A pair can! It looks to be grey. I’m assuming it’s the original color the wheels should be.
 
I've never used a pickle fork. Your hitting it wrong. Never hit the threaded portion. As you found out, once the nut is tighten to spec, it really doesn't do anything. It's a backup safety thing. It locks the tapers together. To break a taper you need to hit the female portion of the joint/steering arm. You put the nut on to protect the threads from glancing blow & prevent the tre from dropping. It takes a pretty good smack or a bigger hammer. It'll break loose.
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so satisfying when you get it first smack!
 
Here’s the paint can I got. It doesn’t have any codes on it but I believe it’s grey. Assuming wheel grey? It looks like it has faded to light grey on the cap? Could finding cans like this be the key to finding true original colors ( to help quell the color debates) or is the paint inside to degraded? Interesting pice of cruiser history and original kit though..

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Here’s the paint can I got. It doesn’t have any codes on it but I believe it’s grey. Assuming wheel grey? It looks like it has faded to light grey on the cap? Could finding cans like this be the key to finding true original colors ( to help quell the color debates) or is the paint inside to degraded? Interesting pice of cruiser history and original kit though..

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In the art world oil paint last a long time. I have created paintings with paint from the 1950s. I would assume its fine. I would test it on something to find out haha. thats a cool find for sure even if its just garage decor.
 
Thanks to @OGBeno i was able to find a like pump! I’ve also learned that I was missing some parts when it was disassembled… no wonder it didn’t work….it was also filled with grease like junk!

(My original is on the left.)

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I finally got the new (to me) brake master cylinder on and all brakes bled. The smog pump is in and everything is working! I had to look into the starter motor. I found I was missing a connection. It was just never installed. So I manufactured a jumper for now. It’s the yellow/black wire in the picture. It seemed to start up better with it in.. I’m constantly amazed by how this cruiser worked with so much broken, disconnected or just plain missing! Haha!! I used to drive this an hour into work when I first got it… that was before I started going threw it. Ha

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It now starts so much better! I wonder if that could also contribute to a slow battery draw I’ve been having?!


how many full revolutions on average do you think your truck requires prior to ignition and main lauge ?
 
PO add on. They do the strangest things. PO rewired the horn on my '77 and put a big black button in the same place as your switch:confused:
Hey mine did the same thing. I’ve left it there for the past 7yrs. Works fine, but wish my 2 steering wheel horn buttons work. The big black button on my dash has 2 wires. Have U moved yours to the steering wheel yet? Or left it were it is?
 
Hey mine did the same thing. I’ve left it there for the past 7yrs. Works fine, but wish my 2 steering wheel horn buttons work. The big black button on my dash has 2 wires. Have U moved yours to the steering wheel yet? Or left it were it is?
This may help you get your POd horn back to normal:
This was one of the hardest to diagnose, trace and fix problems I've tackled, but it was so worth it!
 
I’ve been driving the cruiser all week! Runs ok. It misses a beat every now and again but I’m not to worried yet. Temps are good. The steering is a bit loose feeling. I have to go threw and see what’s still warn. Also I’m not sure if my alternator is not working properly or if my voltage regulator is acting up as it won’t hold a charge. That area still has my last bit of janky wiring. I have the battery on a trickle charger at night to get it running in the morning. Other than that, it’s running good enough. The starter is now working 100% better with that wire connected ( who would have thought!😜) I’m going out of town for a week but when I return I’ll be shooting wires to find my fail point. I also painted the rear fender flairs. Retro of white. They were faded overspray silver.

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Nice job getting it back on the road but not attempting to hot rod it in the mean time.

You should definitely get the grey paint scanned locally so it can be turned into a spray can/color code. Then the wheel gray color shade can be finally answered. Any specialty shop that mixes paint into cans can scan it.
 

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