Which AISIN clutch disc and cover plate part numbers did you go with? HD plate disc?
Finally Bought my first CRUISER!
- Thread starter dkyuss
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Which AISIN clutch disc and cover plate part numbers did you go with? HD plate disc?
Thanks for that video. Doesn't look like something I want to do on jack stands.
That bread trick is pretty funny
That bread trick is pretty funny
- Thread starter
- #123
- Thread starter
- #124
Got my input bearing! FWIW OEM supplied a NSK bearing, not Koyo.
So On it goes! Here is the setup, with 40.25mm ID bushing at the bottom to clear the 40mm shaft. Done right the second time.
So satisfying to place that last needle roller in there and have it tight and snug!
All tapped into place! Feeling smooth and tight!
And counter shaft bearings..... held the opposite end of the shaft with a 2x6 against my hip, while tapping on the 'SST' to seat the bearing (hard to get a pic).
More major progress. Time for a beer!
So On it goes! Here is the setup, with 40.25mm ID bushing at the bottom to clear the 40mm shaft. Done right the second time.
So satisfying to place that last needle roller in there and have it tight and snug!
All tapped into place! Feeling smooth and tight!
And counter shaft bearings..... held the opposite end of the shaft with a 2x6 against my hip, while tapping on the 'SST' to seat the bearing (hard to get a pic).
More major progress. Time for a beer!
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- Thread starter
- #125
And, made that 'SST' to press out the bronze bushing from T-case HI gear. 43.75mm with beveled edges to clear the 44mm bore.
And got me thinking if this was correct. see Real time T-case rebuild question RE: Hi range gear bushing replacement
And got me thinking if this was correct. see Real time T-case rebuild question RE: Hi range gear bushing replacement
- Thread starter
- #126
Front bearing support painted
While paint is drying, chase all the threads! (Should have done this when the case was empty, but better late than never)
Then clean up the cover. I did not disassemble the shifting linkage and hopefully this wont give me issues in the near future. Just a good cleaning and some lube.
Once paint is dry, install the oil seal.
While paint is drying, chase all the threads! (Should have done this when the case was empty, but better late than never)
Then clean up the cover. I did not disassemble the shifting linkage and hopefully this wont give me issues in the near future. Just a good cleaning and some lube.
Once paint is dry, install the oil seal.
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- #127
Lookin like a transmission!
And leavin her at this point for the evening. Can anyone confirm orientation of the oil seal between Tcase and tranny? Think it is right.
@cruiseroutfit so please tell me there are 'extra' parts in these kits?
I hope these are all 'extras'
Also, what are the shim washers for (bottom middle of the pic)? Approx 31mm ID x 38mm OD.
Do you have a parts listing/drawing or description reference?
Thanks
And leavin her at this point for the evening. Can anyone confirm orientation of the oil seal between Tcase and tranny? Think it is right.
@cruiseroutfit so please tell me there are 'extra' parts in these kits?
I hope these are all 'extras'
Also, what are the shim washers for (bottom middle of the pic)? Approx 31mm ID x 38mm OD.
Do you have a parts listing/drawing or description reference?
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #128
Well, continuing on.... not sure if my family remembers what I look like. lol
Most of my day was spent on this damn bushing! Took all my wooden press could handle, 2 foot 'snipe' on the bottle jack to get it to seat.
And then hours of honing...... Maybe being too cautious but this took forever, hone for approx 2 mins, clean, oil, test assemble, once sliding fit measure oil clearance, hone some more.... But right on .0015" clearance (.0014" is minimum).
And press those new tapered bearings on.
Once this was done, and thrust clearances triple checked, the reassembly can continue! New vs Old races.
Input shaft and idler installed!
Most of my day was spent on this damn bushing! Took all my wooden press could handle, 2 foot 'snipe' on the bottle jack to get it to seat.
And then hours of honing...... Maybe being too cautious but this took forever, hone for approx 2 mins, clean, oil, test assemble, once sliding fit measure oil clearance, hone some more.... But right on .0015" clearance (.0014" is minimum).
And press those new tapered bearings on.
Once this was done, and thrust clearances triple checked, the reassembly can continue! New vs Old races.
Input shaft and idler installed!
- Thread starter
- #129
Another angle of the output shaft
And finally installed!
And where Im at tonight.
And finally installed!
And where Im at tonight.
- Thread starter
- #130
Tonight has been a whole lot of messing around trying to get the output shaft pre-load set.
The kit from Kurt @cruiseroutfit came with extra gaskets and seals.... I am assuming. Hoping he would chime in here but may have to call tomorrow to put my mind at ease. There is no way I missed like 5 seals!
Also came with a set of small shim washers? Did not need. Not sure where they should go.
And large shim washers, I assume to set this preload, but wrong size for my bearings? (you can see one on top of the bearing race)
Well I used them anyways, cutting a section out so they are a 'c' shape and coiling into place. They seat well with the cut section releaved by the spedo oil passage and will work just fine. After about 8 tries, Finally got it at 17in lbs (13-21 is the spec for new bearing) right in the middle with a single shim! Had it at 13 once, almost left it and talked myself out, then at 22 but this felt just too tight to be healthy. Glad to finally nail it. (hard pic to take as torque wrench is in motion and lag on picture taking on the phone)
The kit from Kurt @cruiseroutfit came with extra gaskets and seals.... I am assuming. Hoping he would chime in here but may have to call tomorrow to put my mind at ease. There is no way I missed like 5 seals!
Also came with a set of small shim washers? Did not need. Not sure where they should go.
And large shim washers, I assume to set this preload, but wrong size for my bearings? (you can see one on top of the bearing race)
Well I used them anyways, cutting a section out so they are a 'c' shape and coiling into place. They seat well with the cut section releaved by the spedo oil passage and will work just fine. After about 8 tries, Finally got it at 17in lbs (13-21 is the spec for new bearing) right in the middle with a single shim! Had it at 13 once, almost left it and talked myself out, then at 22 but this felt just too tight to be healthy. Glad to finally nail it. (hard pic to take as torque wrench is in motion and lag on picture taking on the phone)
Absolutely, but not here at home
Gimme a shout at the shop tomorrow and I can get you some info.
You will have left over seals, the trans and t-case kits are designed to fit a large range of years and seals are inexpensive enough to have some overlap. Along with that you also have variations such as vacuum shift and direct shift type, integrated park brake, etc.
- Thread starter
- #132
Absolutely, but not here at home
Gimme a shout at the shop tomorrow and I can get you some info.
You will have left over seals, the trans and t-case kits are designed to fit a large range of years and seals are inexpensive enough to have some overlap. Along with that you also have variations such as vacuum shift and direct shift type, integrated park brake, etc.
Thanks, good to know.
- Thread starter
- #133
Now that all is assembled, I quadruple checked the 1 , 2 and 3rd gear trust clearances...... 1 is sweetly in the middle, 2 is on limit and 3 is just over the limit.
Settling while assembly? Anyways it is what it is.
I am thinking that replacing the thrust washer pn# 33343-36020 (@beno ) will tighten this up.
More importantly, that I *think* I can replace this by just removing the input shaft (and obviously 3rd gear) with everything else already assembled.
Input on this? @Output Shaft
Settling while assembly? Anyways it is what it is.
I am thinking that replacing the thrust washer pn# 33343-36020 (@beno ) will tighten this up.
More importantly, that I *think* I can replace this by just removing the input shaft (and obviously 3rd gear) with everything else already assembled.
Input on this? @Output Shaft
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- Thread starter
- #134
33343 'BUSH' is the part in question. Has the groove in the bore that locks into place on 33355A 'BALL'
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- #135
Thinking a little further on this, maybe pn 33362 'hub' moved on the spline during assembly/torquing etc thus giving me more clearance now than when I originally pressed the hub onto the shaft. The 'c' clip 33321D is a size '0' currently installed. Do I just need a larger retaining clip to tighten this up rather than the bushing. This would be even easier.
I can tightly force a .013" shim in 2nd gear, cant clear .014"
3rd gear I can clear .015", not .016".
total of .028" clearance between the two. min combined clearance would be about .012" so I need to tighten a max of .016", a #5 clip is ~.010" thicker and would bring me in tolerance?
Does this all sound right?
I can tightly force a .013" shim in 2nd gear, cant clear .014"
3rd gear I can clear .015", not .016".
total of .028" clearance between the two. min combined clearance would be about .012" so I need to tighten a max of .016", a #5 clip is ~.010" thicker and would bring me in tolerance?
Does this all sound right?
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- Thread starter
- #137
Thanks for the tip. I will use it in the future!
It didnt feel like I was removing metal, just old RTV, Locktite and varnish..... now looking at my pic again it does look like metal grindings, but dont think there was much metal there.
So I tried removing the transmission front input shaft seal/bearing retainer plate so as to hopefully remove the input shaft and NO GO. Not without at least pulling the front countershaft bearing, which is certainly easier than removing the transfer case again.
Put the dial indicator on various locations. Hard to be sure exactly where the play is but I am fairly confident I am shifting the hub 7-10 thou on the splines behind the snap ring. I tapped the hub and could get my thrust clearances tight and in spec..... then tap the other way and on limit and loose.
Now what snap ring to get? I know a couple thou will be clearance in the bearings.
Damn that sux, Sounds right might ought to call on some of the guys that do this all the time. Shouldn't be to expensive buy a few of the thicker snap rings you think would get you in the ball park.
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- Thread starter
- #139
Little side project...... I need to make new gear shifter knobs. Both of mine are well worn black balls.... lol
I plan on doing some CNC engraving on aluminum to provide the base shaft. Originally I was thinking all aluminum but I think it will be soooo cold or hot, depending on season. I will epoxy either a carved wooden ball, or ceramic as I have a kiln that will fire clay and havent fully decided which way to go yet.
Quick sneak peak of the initial design of the aluminum shaft.
I plan on doing some CNC engraving on aluminum to provide the base shaft. Originally I was thinking all aluminum but I think it will be soooo cold or hot, depending on season. I will epoxy either a carved wooden ball, or ceramic as I have a kiln that will fire clay and havent fully decided which way to go yet.
Quick sneak peak of the initial design of the aluminum shaft.
I agree w gator, and commented on your other thread that linked me to here.
H42 Tranny 2nd 3rd gear thrust clearance tightening
Interesting that your link to me @Output Shaft never showed up in my alert box. I never got it. Hmmmm. Still not there.
H42 Tranny 2nd 3rd gear thrust clearance tightening
Interesting that your link to me @Output Shaft never showed up in my alert box. I never got it. Hmmmm. Still not there.
