Finally Bought my first CRUISER!

[TLC Norway]

I went digging in the parts bin, here is some pix of a (what i believe) is the early model shift fork with the clip holding it on.
It also shows the clip at the "handle"of the fork aligning it with the adjustable tilt-point.
Is yours the same as this?

 

[TLC Norway]

Will add some specs, dont know if you have it in the FSM, but on the wear marks of the fingers on the pressure plate, it says max 0.6mm depth and max 5mm wide. From the picture, it looks like you're within specs.
-If it was me, and I was on a budget, i'd run that clutch if the flywheel is fine.
You're clearly motivated enough to drop the tranny, so why not use what's left of that clutch.

 

[dkyuss]

Will add some specs, dont know if you have it in the FSM, but on the wear marks of the fingers on the pressure plate, it says max 0.6mm depth and max 5mm wide. From the picture, it looks like you're within specs.
-If it was me, and I was on a budget, i'd run that clutch if the flywheel is fine.
You're clearly motivated enough to drop the tranny, so why not use what's left of that clutch.

Thanks for the feedback. I think pressure plate and flywheel look and feel fine, spring finger wear is mainly just missing paint and well within that spec. Little bit of scuffing on the surface, but this is healthy lookin wear IMO. Very smooth and no ridge on ID or OD.

What does a NEW clutch disk measure? Mine is 8mm thick, and 1.4mm depth to the tallest rivets (most rivet heads are shorter than this, more like 2.5mm clearance)

I am tempted to throw this clutch back in. Release bearing needs replacing but the pilot feels like new. I know dropping the tranny for the second time will be way easier and quicker anyways!



The bearing itself is shot, but I think the sloppy rocking bearing hub is normal? Though my fork looks different than yours TLCNorway.

So I think the current plan is;
Replace rear main engine seal
Replace release bearing
Swap used/good condition transfercase to my existing transmission, Replacing transmission/transfercase seal (should I leave the bypass hose installed?)
Replace rear driveshaft u-joints

Put er all back together!

Just not sure how worn, or unworn my clutch disk is? 50%? 20% of new? If this is on it last 20% of life I would like to just replace it now while im in here.... If closer to 50%+ I have no concerns reinstalling. Tried various terms in searches on Mud to determine original thickness and sometimes you find everything except what you are looking for!

 

[cruisermatt]

Just put the new clutch in. Why not?

The throw-out bearing hub/fork sloppiness is fine.

What yer is you truck? Gas or diesel? That would explain which clutch fork you have.

If you have a new seal between the transmission and transfer case ten you don't need the hose.

How are your u-joints now? OEM I assume? If they are OK is leave them be, OEM and set-up by Toyota seem to last longer than anything else.

 

[dkyuss]

Just put the new clutch in. Why not?

The throw-out bearing hub/fork sloppiness is fine.

What yer is you truck? Gas or diesel? That would explain which clutch fork you have.

If you have a new seal between the transmission and transfer case ten you don't need the hose.

How are your u-joints now? OEM I assume? If they are OK is leave them be, OEM and set-up by Toyota seem to last longer than anything else.

81 diesel BJ60.... 495k and not much is original any more.....
It looks like my bell housing is not a diesel? as it is not tapped for the tach sensor. Flush smooth casting where the tach sensor should be. One of my first discoveries with my new beast. Maybe this is not the right release fork????

Swapping transfer cases so I plan on replacing that seal. U-joints are on their way out or I wouldnt replace them. Trying to minimize the bleeding! How thick is a new clutch plate?

 

[dkyuss]

Well, Im on to plan C now. Partially due to $$$ and partially because all my local suppliers are out to lunch.
Toyota in town wants 92$ for the rear oil seal, and 190$ for just a release bearing! Bastards! I would have gone for it if delivery was by this weekend, but it took them 3 days to quote parts that needed 2-3 days delivery.
My local parts stores either have no stock or cant find my truck in their listings! More Bastards!

I thought Steve at EBI was going to come though for me but 3 days later and still no pricing or lead times..... Whats the matter with these guys? I have had great products and reasonable pricing importing from the states looks like I will likely do that again in the future.

So for now, I have thoroughly cleaned everything I can get my hands on. I found significant pieces of metal in my original transmission.... looks like tips of reverse gears from being ground into place but not totally sure and didn't look any further. I have aborted the idea of replacing any seals or transferring the new to me T-case to my original transmission. The new to me assembly looks clean and tight, inside and out, and was working when uninstalled so should hopefully work fine for me now. Basically its all just going back together as is with the new doner powertrain and original clutch..... I flushed out the release bearing and packed lightly with high temp grease. Hoping to get another 5-10,000kms out of this setup as is... which for me will be a year or two lol. I plan on using Lucas oil heavy duty stabilizer at about 25-50% in both cases. Still need to do my u-joints though but that is painless and parts are everywhere.

Hopefully early in the new year I will source a clutch kit, complete tranny (w/syncros) and transfer case rebuild kit and rear main seal, 115mm OD 95mm ID 12mm depth type TCL. Not sure why this needs to be OEM.... just an oil seal I bet I could source for 30-40$, top quality put in heavy industrial machines. May put a speedy-sleeve on all seal surfaces at this time too.
This will be a project for next summer? Hopefully the $$$ and agree.

So made a clutch alignment tool which is just a piece of aluminum shafting turned down to 25.95mm diameter for a tight sliding fit on the ID of the clutch plate splines. The tip of the tool is turned down to 11.99mm with tapered nose to align and tightly fit in the pilot bearing. Will try and grab some pics when installing. Also made a brass bushing to replace the plastic bushings on teh transfer case shift lever. Should get rid of the rattles and slop.

Hope to be by tomorrow evening if the stars align just right. Still got to hit the 100km mark so I can re torque my u-bolts again

 

[TLC Norway]

I hope this works out for you!

There was a thread in the 60 section about a new clutch install, but I couldn't get my phone to reply and tag you in that thread, I was thinking he could measure a new clutch thickness for you.

 

[dkyuss]

So close yet so far..... got outside by noon and made super progress.

3b rear end ready for flywheel

Cover plate... almost forgot this.

Flywheel

Clutch disk and alignment tool

And I forgot to grab one of the coverplate all torqued up.


Brass bushing installed on largest pivot to replace those plastic bushings, as well as a hard piece of plastic installed so as to tighten the small pivot on the end of the 'J' (I assume there originally was something here?). Spring washer on the medium size bushing and virtually no slop in any of them! Much better now!

Unfortunately I spent the rest of the evening attempting to line up the input shaft to splines/pilot bearing. I could feel the splines engage in the clutch disc once or twice but damned if I could get the units to mate.. Didn't want to force anything and pain in the ass trying to align everything while crawling around on the gravel! I did preassemble the clutch disk to the new transmission input shaft so I know it does slide on their nicely. Try again tomorrow when it is light out again and hopefully slide it in first try. I will borrow some 3/8" and 1/2" shafting from work to use as alignment pins on the bell housing to motor hole patterns. Wish we had some metric sizing but it should be close enough.

 

[cruisermatt]

A good trick is to get some long M12x1.25 bolts from the hardware store, zip the heads off and notch them so you can install them wth a flathead screwdriver. I like to put two in the bellhousing, then uninstall when you get two permanent bolts in.

 

[dkyuss]

A good trick is to get some long M12x1.25 bolts from the hardware store, zip the heads off and notch them so you can install them wth a flathead screwdriver. I like to put two in the bellhousing, then uninstall when you get two permanent bolts in.

I had seen this suggestion and looked for m12x1.25.... could only find 25mm length in town and checked 4 stores.... so always looking for an excuse to buy new tools!

Then took some 3" x 1/2"NC bolts, cut the heads off, turned down the shoulder in the lathe to 12mm and threaded the end. Put a slot in the end for a screwdriver but ended up having to jam two 1/2" nuts on the threads to get enough torque to remove. Probably a little too long, 2-2.5" length max required as the starter 'bulge' in the bell housing interferes with the floor until it gets close.

This made all the difference and I was mated in 30 mins, and another 2 hours twisting and contorting to reach all the bolts install starter and clutch slave.

Shot of the setup in the gravel, while its raining

Tomorrow I will fasten transmission mounts, drive shafts and refill with oil. clutch feels right, so I have my fingers crossed for a sucessfull tomorrow!

 

[dkyuss]

Wow... been a while since an update. Had a family holiday and when we got home it was cold so the beast has been neglected for month or two. Not completely forgotten though. I have been out on the newly installed, transmission and so far all is good. This will work fine for me for a while yet!

While its been so cold, I have cleaned and repainted the original air intake housing, it is ready for reinstall.

Front drive shaft yoke/ujoint has been cleaned and re greased. Little bit of play bot reasonably tight. I have yet to install as the PO had 10mm bolts in here, instead of the shouldered 11mm that should have been... Ordered and hopefully next week we can reinstall.

Rear driveshaft u-joints are ready to install new moog after market replacements. Project for this weekend.

I have 4 new NGK glow plugs ready to be installed. Plan on adjusting valves at the same time.

And I finally found some wheels on kijiji that will work for BFG KO2's. 15x8 alloys with 3.25" backspace (-19mm offset). Tires are now mounted and balanced. To be installed soon.

 

[dkyuss]

Glow plugs done. Not sure if old glowplugs are supposed to be worn and pitted on the ends.
Cylinder #4 took a little bit of a push to get the new unworn plug in the sooted up hole. Hope to get the valve cover off today and check valve clearances. See what else I can find...

 

[dkyuss]

Valve clearances adjusted to spec. Not sure on this old girls history, but every lifter, except exhaust on cyl#4 was loose by about an 1/8 of a turn. Exhaust on #4 was tight by about the same amount . Hopefully this was the cause of the sooty glowplug hole on #4. At least I now have a baseline and She purrs very nicely now. Noticeably smoother at idle.
Quick and simple job too!

 

[Cruising Canuck]

Wow... been a while since an update. Had a family holiday and when we got home it was cold so the beast has been neglected for month or two. Not completely forgotten though. I have been out on the newly installed, transmission and so far all is good. This will work fine for me for a while yet!

While its been so cold, I have cleaned and repainted the original air intake housing, it is ready for reinstall.

Front drive shaft yoke/ujoint has been cleaned and re greased. Little bit of play bot reasonably tight. I have yet to install as the PO had 10mm bolts in here, instead of the shouldered 11mm that should have been... Ordered and hopefully next week we can reinstall.

Rear driveshaft u-joints are ready to install new moog after market replacements. Project for this weekend.

I have 4 new NGK glow plugs ready to be installed. Plan on adjusting valves at the same time.

And I finally found some wheels on kijiji that will work for BFG KO2's. 15x8 alloys with 3.25" backspace (-19mm offset). Tires are now mounted and balanced. To be installed soon.
View attachment 1174986

I like these wheels alot more than all the other ones previously posted.
They should look great on the rig

 

[dkyuss]

I like these wheels alot more than all the other ones previously posted.

ME TOO! I am amazed at the difference that new wheels/tires make to the ride. Not only looks but way smoother drive!


And.... I think Im a bit of an addict

Just received an early Christmas present to myself (SS braided brake lines and 11mm nut/bolt set for drivetrain).... and lined up the missing parts for my to-be-nearly-new drive train.
Clutch kit
H42 rebuild kit
T-case rebuild kit
Motor mounts
Rear main

Think I will be pretty busy this winter.

Also began putting together my custom home made body mount kit. Thinking of adding in about 1/2" of lift while im at it.
This is going to be made from boat rollers, 1/4" sch 40 pipe, plate or fender washers and 3/8" bolts. I do have some UHMW and will likely make the added lift with this. The stock mounts measure to be approx 1" thick so I plan to keep the new rubber the same thickness, adding lift with UHMW. My whole body mount kit will cost me less than $60 (I already have UHMW, bolts and washers ). I soaked the body mount bolts on there now with PB blaster so hopefully this weekend I can tackle this beast of a job. I think once these body mounts are done I will be through the worst of it... at least all my safety and roadworthy concerns.

 

[dkyuss]

So quick photo update for progress.
Pre tires and wheels

And NOW

Still no snow up here in Canada Eh. lol

Still a long way to go, but lots of progress. Ive put a couple hundred kms on the old girl in the last couple days and while the tires have made MAJOR improvements (not surprising since the old tires were 3 different brands and treads) this tranny sure roars coming down a hill using the transmission to decelerate!
From what I have read this is worn idler shaft/bearings so probably not a bad thing that I am not waiting on the rebuild. Also nice to have the original drivetrain in my garage to be refurbished and still able to drive her around!

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Looks great man! Good on ya for roughing it out in the gravel, makes working on concrete a dream come true.

 

[gregnash]

Looking good dude... really liking the look of the new KO2s but have to say those rims really don't due the cruiser justice! We are getting plenty of snow down here for you!!

 

[dkyuss]

Looks great man! Good on ya for roughing it out in the gravel, makes working on concrete a dream come true.

One day I would love to ash fault/concrete the garage and driveway, but that will have to wait till the beast is in tip tot shape first! among other things....

Looking good dude... really liking the look of the new KO2s but have to say those rims really don't due the cruiser justice! We are getting plenty of snow down here for you!!

Well we finally got some snow. Just in time for christmas! No love for the rims?! I actually like these rims a lot! I bought flat black paint (when I got them they were painted black and scuffed with polydip peel off type paint) for the wheels but once the alloys got shined up I thought they looked so good I figured paint would not improve anything (my mind could change on this in the future though...). They are also so light weight compared to the steelies that were on her originally.


So, Body mount kit/ very mild lift is almost ready.
The initial bits....
2" dia UHMW round - scrap laying around
2" dia Rubber boat rollers, 1/2" ID, 9" length - $9 ea x 2 princess auto
1/4" x 4" sch 40 nipple - $1.20 ea x 12 - home depot (these come about .350" ID so need to take a 3/8" drill to them to allow the bolts to clear)
2.5" rubber roll end (small) - $5 x 4 princess auto
3" rubber roll end (large) - $6 x 6 princess auto
3/8"NC SHCS x 5" length - fastenal
3/8" x 2" fender washers fastenal
3/8" hardened washers fastenal

Cut into bits

Face and drill the sawcut uhmw. I also turned a locating spigot into the UHMW to mate with the recess in the roll ends.

And an initial 'mock up'. This set up will give me 3/4" lift over the stock setup. Rubber thickness remains stock 1" or 25mm but 3/4" UHMW riser is also added.
I still need to cut/turn down the nipples to size when it is determined. Not going to get at this project this weekend but it will be ready to go for when I am ready...

 

[dkyuss]

Driveshafts were pulled off the truck yesterday to get new u-joints.

Ya, they definitely needed them! I see why the lower u-joint would not take any grease.

Quick clean and paint

And here we go!