Evans Waterless coolant

[SmokingRocks]

Smokin - not sure what drives your intense hatred here. It's a product that is offered for a specific audience and obviously you aren't it. The theory behind it is solid. I have personal experience with it. Have you ever tried it in anything??

My issue with it is that it is 100% Glycol (which on their website they claim to be the only maker of... right), I think that is pretty clear to everyone at this point. Evans published the tech data on the fluid and guess what.... It's 100% Ethylene glycol, literally the same "Prestone concentrate" you can buy at wall mart for $10, you literally would have the same experience if you replaced all of your Evans with prestone concentrate for 1/5 the cost.

My issue is that it's a scam.

that preys on uninformed buyers and wiz bang marketing. But whatever floats your boat man you do you.

 

[Roostre]

You keep saying that. But then your only evidence is this:



Which is merely anecdotal. Where's the science?

I wish I had time..

Call their technical assistance line:
888-990-2665

In the past I've called them about specific design applications and viscosity and was able to talk to a very knowledgeable engineer that helped me out.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Did you happen to find the viscosity of Evans stated anywhere? Curious whether that also matches glycol.

And as for the water pump section of your data: I do know of one 3FE owner (overhanger in the 60s section) who tried to go Evans. He blew out his existing water pump and then two others before throwing in the towel.

E.Glycol has a viscocity of 16.1 mPa.s at 25* C. The measurement Evans gives is obscure because it is at -40*C. 2000 is thick.

 

[SmokingRocks]

I’ll dig up the link to ththe report, they provided all of their ASTM and petrographic tests. That makes the report bout as legit as they get

 

[Dindu Nuffin]

Why OAT?

Because that's what the manufacturer specs; it's not a Toyota. My Cruiser uses the boring 'ole green stuff and is fine, other than a crappy CSF radiator that's going to be replaced in the next few weeks.

 

[smritte]

A few years back Evans came to my work. The rep did a speech on lower temps, longer life and all the issues with running water/coolant. He had me sold until one of my co-workers asked a few questions on cyl head temps and how straight glycol doesn't move heat as well as water/glycol. The rep seemed to get mad, started repeating his claim's and stated how people run this and never have problems. I was still going to run it but I like to do my own research. I found the material that was posted here as well as testing done by a performance shop running N/A and boosted motors. They were comparing the different additives with straight water, water/coolant and evans. The high cylinder temps they got across the board with evans proved to me that my co-worker wasn't just being a jerk to the rep.

While I was researching I came across an independent lab test on water/coolant. The science went over my head but the info was on distilled water and fractured molecules. The tests showed that distilled water actually caused issues if ran more than 50/50 mix (I run 70/30) and that purified water (with no minerals) was actually better. Not for heat transfer but something that had to do with breaking down of soft metals.
I don't know if anyone has seen anything on this but the date on the testing was within a few years and was not done by someone competing with a product. I found the report by accident and would have issues trying to find it to link it.

 

[CJF]

Because that's what the manufacturer specs; it's not a Toyota. My Cruiser uses the boring 'ole green stuff and is fine, other than a crappy CSF radiator that's going to be replaced in the next few weeks.

Ah. I thought you meant your cruiser.

BTW, I too have a POS CSF that I need to yank.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Ah. I thought you meant your cruiser.

BTW, I too have a POS CSF that I need to yank.

Sad about those CSF's. Still not sure what to do with mine. Pretty sure its going in the dumpster.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Yes reverse osmosis water is claimed to be better than distilled. Distilled can still contain low levels of calcium, magnesium and some other minerals.

Although the data I’ve come across is often conflicting and while one source claims RO water is the best another will show data backing distilled.

I run distilled and have never seen any deposits but I also do seasonal mix ratio adjustments twice a year so my fluid gets changed through more rapidly than others.

 

[-Spike-]

My understanding is that RO and distilled are virtually identical, with distilled having around a .01% edge on purity from anything other than hydrogen and oxygen atoms. I have heard that pure RO will leach metals because of pH and atomic structure, and I assume distilled would have the same properties, but I don't run pure RO- I add coolant, that has anti-corrosive properties. In any case, my system hasn't ever collapsed or given me any reason to believe I'm doing any harm with RO, I only use it over distilled because I have an RO system.

Although I wouldn't chance it, I'd have to guess that typical tap water doesn't contain enough impurities to do much harm to a closed loop system, unless you're changing it out every week or whatever. There's a finite amount of crap in it, once that settles out or solidifies it's done its minuscule amount of damage. It can't regenerate more calcium or iron or whatever.

 

[SmokingRocks]

I'd have to guess that typical tap water doesn't contain enough impurities to do much harm to a closed loop system, unless you're changing it out every week or whatever.

There is sooo much variation in the quality of tap water from location to location. The concern is really the minerals and solids suspended. And yes if tap water is used in a pinch to top off (say 1-2 liters added) its going to be fine. Issues typically arise when joe blow continually tops off his radiator with tap water over the course of many years.

 

[CJF]

There is sooo much variation in the quality of tap water from location to location. The concern is really the minerals and solids suspended. And yes if tap water is used in a pinch to top off (say 1-2 liters added) its going to be fine. Issues typically arise when joe blow continually tops off his radiator with tap water over the course of many years.

I've used tap water (ours is admittedly pretty good) for the last 20 years.

 

[BILT4ME]

I've used tap water (ours is admittedly pretty good) for the last 20 years.

I didn't realize your name was Joe.......

 

[flintknapper]

Sad about those CSF's. Still not sure what to do with mine. Pretty sure its going in the dumpster.

Is yours a '2517' ?

Also, is it of recent manufacture (less than 3 years old)?

I'm still puzzled by the apparent poor performance cited by a few folks here concerning the 2517 radiator.

Mine is about 4-1/2 years old now...and still doing fine. I don't have overheating troubles or temperatures anywhere near what some report.

Makes me wonder if CSF had some production issues or if our operating conditions are just that different.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Is yours a '2517' ?

Also, is it of recent manufacture (less than 3 years old)?

I'm still puzzled by the apparent poor performance cited by a few folks here concerning the 2517 radiator.

Mine is about 4-1/2 years old now...and still doing fine. I don't have overheating troubles or temperatures anywhere near what some report.

Makes me wonder if CSF had some production issues or if our operating conditions are just that different.

Yeah I just purchased it and it was garbage. low 200's on cool days with no AC. Swapped it for a TYC and now my high has been 209 towing uphill in the dead of summer with the AC on.

 

[CJF]

I didn't realize your name was Joe.......

I'm actually am Joe Blow on LinkedIn.

Or wait. Maybe I'm Mike Hunt.

Can't remember...

 

[CJF]

Makes me wonder if CSF had some production issues.

I'm absolutely convinced that's what it is.

Piss poor f*cking quality control.

 

[60wag]

One minor point to add to the discussion...... Glycol, ethylene or propylene, does not inhibit corrosion. Additional chemicals are blended in to the commercial coolants to protect against corrosion. These additives are slowly consumed over time leaving old coolant not as good at corrosion protection as new coolant.

 

[Proven]

This thread is an emotional roller coaster.

I have always used Distilled water, but only because someone I trusted told me to do so. I understood the minerals etc that can cause corrosion bit. I come from the marine business and corrosion was life.

I hadn't realized I could buy reverse osmosis water, never saw that on the aisle in Kroger.

I do believe mine is due for a flush though, so I am looking at going green this time but not sure which green. I still have some toyota red in a jug though...

 

[-Spike-]

I hadn't realized I could buy reverse osmosis water, never saw that on the aisle in Kroger.

'Purified' water may be either RO or distilled, they are pretty much interchangeable although the label should say which it is. Watch out for 'minerals added for taste', which almost any 'drinking' water has.

RO is easily obtained at the purified water dispenser machines outside of most grocery stores (at least around here). Usually $.25/gallon, or $1/5 gallons, bring your own container.