Evans Waterless coolant (1 Viewer)

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Is there anyone that has or is running this in their LC?

Evans High-Performance coolant is ready to use—no water required. It contains no silicates or phosphates and requires no Supplemental Coolant Additive (SCA).

Boiling Point: Above 375°
Antifreeze Properties: Protects below -40°F
Benefits: Eliminates corrosion and pump cavitation, reduces system pressure, prevents overheating, maximizes BHP
Life Span: Protects for life of the engine

Here are a couple useful links too.

High Performance Coolant
https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/
https://www.evanscoolant.com/products/prep-fluid/
 
i know a guy running it in his 3L. its way too expensive for me.
 
They have a $5 off per gallon rebate right now. Best price I've found is at Summit.

I've run it for years with zero issues and like that I don't have to worry about corrosion or pressure issues. I even run it in my motorcycles.
 
The only reason I'd change coolant types is for increased cooling ability. This product appears to have decreased cooling ability when compared to water-based coolants. From the website-
  • Water has superior heat transfer capabilities but water’s low boiling point is close to the operating temperature of an engine, and water can cause corrosion.
  • Waterless coolants provide sufficient heat transfer, boil at a higher temperature, and are non-corrosive.
 
Is there anyone that has or is running this in their LC?

Evans High-Performance coolant is ready to use—no water required. It contains no silicates or phosphates and requires no Supplemental Coolant Additive (SCA).

Boiling Point: Above 375°
Antifreeze Properties: Protects below -40°F
Benefits: Eliminates corrosion and pump cavitation, reduces system pressure, prevents overheating, maximizes BHP
Life Span: Protects for life of the engine

Here are a couple useful links too.

High Performance Coolant
https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/
https://www.evanscoolant.com/products/prep-fluid/

I guess I don't understand the main benefits if you aren't getting up to the boiling point of coolant. I mean, if you have 235 coolant...you've got bigger problems. This would probably be a great way to increase efficiency if you designed around it, since running a hotter coolant would mean less heat losses and smaller cooling surfaces due to a greater delta T but you'd have to solve for letting your engine get to 300+ degrees and be safe there.
 
Why..

Whats wrong with running 15% Coolant / 85% Distilled water + water wetter in hot climates? Does the trick for me...

That coolant has thermal conductance similar to a straight ethylene glycol... .27W/mK Which isn't great In simple terms this number is a measure of the solutions ability to carry heat out of the engine. The closer the number is to 1 the more capacity it has.

Ethylene Glycol / Distilled Water
  • 100/0 (100% glycol) 0.26 W/m.K
  • Your linked magic coolant 0.27 W/m.K
  • 50/50 0.47 W/m.K
  • 30/70 0.50 W/m.K
  • 0/100 (100% distilled water) 0.67 W/m.K
In addition to the conductivity the fluid needs to have the capacity. See the Specific Heat Capacity number. This is the measure of how much heat the solution can hold, expressed in J/(kgK). The rate depicts how many kilojoules of energy are required to change the temperature of one kilogram of said substance by one Kelvin

Ethylene Glycol / Distilled Water
  • 100/0 (100% glycol) 2.69 J/kg.K
  • Your linked magic coolant 2.63 J/kg.K
  • 50/50 3.44 J/kg.K
  • 30/70 3.91 J/kg.K
  • 0/100 (100% distilled water) 4.07 J/kg.K
A high boiling point means nothing good for cooling, simply the more solutes the fluid has in it the higher the boiling point will be. So without getting waaaaay too deep in the properties of thermal transfers the coolant you linked would highly increase your risk of overheating.
 
Also I do find it slightly humorous that the "waterless engine coolant" still contains water.


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i know a guy running it in his 3L. its way too expensive for me.

At $50 a pop yeah that’s what I am thinking and the prep is $25.

What does “your guy” think of it?
 
I guess I don't understand the main benefits if you aren't getting up to the boiling point of coolant. I mean, if you have 235 coolant...you've got bigger problems. This would probably be a great way to increase efficiency if you designed around it, since running a hotter coolant would mean less heat losses and smaller cooling surfaces due to a greater delta T but you'd have to solve for letting your engine get to 300+ degrees and be safe there.

My thing is I live out the PHX and with outside temps reaching 115-120 during the summer, running AC full blast, and underhood temps higher and these do not cool well I think this might be a viable option to water based coolants.
 
My thing is I live out the PHX and with outside temps reaching 115-120 during the summer, running AC full blast, and underhood temps higher and these do not cool well I think this might be a viable option to water based coolants.
But... it doesn't cool as well. It just has the capacity to hold more heat before it boils. Normal coolant boils at well above the point where your engine is already overheating.
 
All of their sites info is laughable.

They claim that 50% glycol/water boils at 226 degrees is close but doesn't factor in what the pressense of a radiator cap will do... By pressurizing the system the boiling point of the 50/50 mix is nearly 260 degrees. Their claimed max boiling point is even on par with that of straight ethylene glycol.

I'm convinced this is just 100% straight glycol that they are marketing and selling for a stupid mark up to suckers.

Literally I bet they are buying prestone concentrate at $10/gallon, putting it in their $2 bottle and selling the whole thing for $50+ S&H. For the love of god don't buy this bull****. If you want to see what it's like to run a straight glycol mix in one of the hottest places in the country just go to walmart and get a cart full of this:
9cc209d1-6932-469b-a7fe-aea5b9c90f1d_1.a4ee2f69336b9f979a044d149c10b7fd.jpeg
 
Just to clarify: You're currently running Evans coolant in your '97 80-series? And have been for several years?

I run it in several vehicles, including the '97.

As far as "performance improvement" a major car magazine did some interesting back to back dyno testing and the results were interesting. (Not too relevant to low performance LC motors) They were able to gain some significant hp because the knock sensors saw less pre-ignition with the Evans coolant.
 
Evans discussions always seem to turn into arguments.

You either get the physics behind it or you don't.

For diesels that may be prone to cavitation issues it's the best coolant - bar none.
 
 
Physics isn't something you "either get or you don't".

Physics is something you either understand well or you don't.

And if you understand it well you are able to explain it to others.

You are correct.
 

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