Engine Rebuilding options for S/C

[NLXTACY]

UPDATE

Ok just got the call I was dreading. Magnuson won't have my S/C ready for 4-5 weeks. The issue is the 3rd gen blowers are obsolete. I can't stick my wife in this stupid rental car for another five weeks and still expect a warm and inviting bed to come home to

The engine is supposed to be ready on Friday and either delivered on Friday or on Monday. I will already be out of the country by then. So I've decided to hold off on the S/C install until I get back AND the S/C is ready. I *think* I haven't done anything that screws me and prevents me from buttoning this thing up without the S/C and installing it later.

I do have the exhaust manifolds that BOTH have the NPT port drilled into them. I would need to block these off temporarily but not sure what I should use.

Being as everything is done on the engine side I should be able to do the S/C install in a weekend when I get back.

This sucks

 

[CycloSteve]

I do have the exhaust manifolds that BOTH have the NPT port drilled into them. I would need to block these off temporarily but not sure what I should use.

Definitely sucks, but not a tough decision to make with the circumstances.

With the ports, use a brass NPT plug with an external square fitting for installation and removal, not an internal hex...don't ask me why I know (envision easy-out to get the effing thing out). NPT is tapered IIRC, so no need for anything other than the brass fitting (no tape, or anti-seize). Don't over-tighten.

With the preparation for the S/C, I would still recommend doing the wiring extension if you have not already done so. Get anything and everything done in preparation for the S/C now, so that it is indeed just a bolt-on operation when you get it back from Magnusson in March or April.



Steve

 

[NLXTACY]

With the ports, use a brass NPT plug with an external square fitting for installation and removal, not an internal hex...don't ask me why I know (envision easy-out to get the effing thing out). NPT is tapered IIRC, so no need for anything other than the brass fitting (no tape, or anti-seize). Don't over-tighten.

Gotcha. BTW, why would I need two? Or do I only need one? Reason I ask is I bought these manifolds off another mudder who didn't do his S/C install because of an accident I believe. He said his manifolds were ready to go for EGT but do I need one in each manifold? I can't seem to hunt down the answer.

With the preparation for the S/C, I would still recommend doing the wiring extension if you have not already done so. Get anything and everything done in preparation for the S/C now, so that it is indeed just a bolt-on operation when you get it back from Magnusson in March or April.

Yeah I may still do that regardless. Most likely on Friday before I leave.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Gotcha. BTW, why would I need two? Or do I only need one? Reason I ask is I bought these manifolds off another mudder who didn't do his S/C install because of an accident I believe. He said his manifolds were ready to go for EGT but do I need one in each manifold? I can't seem to hunt down the answer.

I would not worry about two EGT probes. The only time I have used more than one was on a road race car that had all 6 cylinders tapped and running EGT's on each. With the computer in that car we could adjust individual fuel trims per cylinder. Not needed on a 1fz with stock ECU and low boost.

If one is going to be permanently plugged though I would use a steel one in there so the plug and manifold expands at the same rate. I had a manifold with an Aluminium one on a turbo car and on the dyno the plug popped out.

 

[Scopedog]

When putting motor back together, you could add the supercharger crank pulley, change the heater pipe and bypass pipes, etc. Have a lot of the work done, so the install will be quicker. I agree with, extending the harness. If you go that route, do it now, as it takes some time to do it right. Why plug the EGT hole in the manifold? Why not just install the EGT gauge now, no need to wait for the supercharger. In fact, it would be better since you can get a baseline on EGT's before the supercharger is on.

 

[NLXTACY]

When putting motor back together, you could add the supercharger crank pulley, change the heater pipe and bypass pipes, etc. Have a lot of the work done, so the install will be quicker. I agree with, extending the harness. If you go that route, do it now, as it takes some time to do it right. Why plug the EGT hole in the manifold? Why not just install the EGT gauge now, no need to wait for the supercharger. In fact, it would be better since you can get a baseline on EGT's before the supercharger is on.

The issue is I have two tapped holes in the manifolds, not just one. Good call on the crank pulley.

 

[CycloSteve]

Gotcha. BTW, why would I need two? Or do I only need one? Reason I ask is I bought these manifolds off another mudder who didn't do his S/C install because of an accident I believe. He said his manifolds were ready to go for EGT but do I need one in each manifold? I can't seem to hunt down the answer.

Normally you would have one NPT port for the EGT sensor, and a wideband bung (Bosch threaded) welded to the Y-Pipe for monitoring AFR. Not sure why they tapped two exhaust manifolds for EGT...overkill unless you were running a giant turbo and worried about front bank vs. rear bank. Cap one, and add the EGT now to the other and you will be fine (rear manifold should be the hottest, and one to monitor).

Perhaps the S/C not being ready is just another way of gently breaking in the motor prior to boosting. None of us like doing the work more than once, but sometimes you have to look at the lemonade side of things.



Steve

 

[TrickyT]

Yeah there was a thread two years ago that touched on just that. I believe it was FIRSTTOY that first did the mod and then reported his findings. Convinced me enough to go ahead to do it.

Here is a pic of his setup back then. It may look different now since it doesn't look like he wrapped the whole canister:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1332/4722394902_186301c8a7.jpg

Takes a long time to do it right and NOT make it look stupid but for a sub $30 mod I think it will be beneficial. One of the ex-JPL guys that work with me recommended it when he saw it. Works for me

Are you talking about this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/394197-waic-water-air-intercooler-trd-sc.html ?

There are IAT numbers posted in that thread, but the different temps are for inlet temps versus after being cooled by the water-air intercooler FirstToy added. In other words, how well the IC worked at lowering the temp before the air went into the motor. I didn't see anything there about before versus after the gold foil mod. I can see how this mod should help, but wonder if we're talking 1*F or 10*F or what.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Sorry you can't get your S/C before you leave.

As for the story about those manifolds you have, I ended up with an extra set of exhaust manifolds after pulling the S/C & associated parts off a parted out 80. The FWD manifold that I pulled off that 80 had an EGT probe in cyl #1 but I wanted one for the hot cylinder #6, so I had the extra AFT manifold drilled at a machine shop. However, after receiving my Isspro EGT probe I realized during the mock up that the probe was longer than I expected & there was not alot of room to change it out if I ever needed to. Not wanting to return it, I just had my other AFT manifold drilled for a vertical install.

So you have my Aft manifold and Addicted56's Fwd manifold for your rig.

You could just plug #1 with a steel plug as mentioned above and you'll be OK just running EGT off cyl#6.

 

[NLXTACY]

Are you talking about this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/394197-waic-water-air-intercooler-trd-sc.html ?

There are IAT numbers posted in that thread, but the different temps are for inlet temps versus after being cooled by the water-air intercooler FirstToy added. In other words, how well the IC worked at lowering the temp before the air went into the motor. I didn't see anything there about before versus after the gold foil mod. I can see how this mod should help, but wonder if we're talking 1*F or 10*F or what.

If I had an extra air filter canister I wouldn't mind finding out those numbers once I got back. Its a pretty easy swap out. I'm curious as well. Although...since my truck isnt getting the S/C installed before I leave, I could easily compare it versus one of the local mudders.

 

[NLXTACY]

As for the story about those manifolds you have, I ended up with an extra set of exhaust manifolds after pulling the S/C & associated parts off a parted out 80. The FWD manifold that I pulled off that 80 had an EGT probe in cyl #1 but I wanted one for the hot cylinder #6, so I had the extra AFT manifold drilled at a machine shop. However, after receiving my Isspro EGT probe I realized during the mock up that the probe was longer than I expected & there was not alot of room to change it out if I ever needed to. Not wanting to return it, I just had my other AFT manifold drilled for a vertical install.

Well I may just wind up getting my existing exhaust manifolds ceramic coated as well and either swap the front or else just sell them off

 

[NLXTACY]

So found a few pics that I didn't post up. Figured I might as well. Earlier in the week I stopped off at Martin Davidson's shop. I had asked for him to let me know when the block was going to be decked because I wanted to see the amount of warpage. For those that don't know, you must deck the timing cover housing bolted to the block so that they can have matching deck heights.

As you can see from the first pass, its definitely warped, bowed in the center. By the second pass most of the deck was match. By the third it was good to go. Now that the head was surfaced we get to see what thickness the head gasket needs to be. My particular head gasket needed to be .070 to keep the stock compression. The OEM is .060 and the stock Cometic is .053.

 

[NLXTACY]

Few more of the decked block

 

[NLXTACY]

Martin taking off the spark plug tube seals so that I can paint the valve cover.

 

[NLXTACY]

Finished crank .010 over

 

[NLXTACY]

Valve covers were hot tanked and I had pie in the sky plans for the valve cover(s) but I just simply ran out of time. I still have two valve covers here that I am eventually going to experiment with. I want to still anodize one and powdercoat the other. For mine, well hi-temp engine enamel it is. No choice. Its not a bad choice but not the direction I wanted to go in.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Great pictures of the block being decked. Informative to see all stages of the process.

 

[NLXTACY]

Paint is try, sanded down the letters and applied my "go fast" sticker ala BENO :cheers;

It's no orange dot mod but it should net me a few ponies

 

[VanGo]

Valve cover looks great in red!

 

[inkpot]

Dude, looks pretty good to me.
Sort of a "silk purse out of a sow's ear" kinda deal, but a pretty/clean motor is a happy motor I like it. John