Engine Rebuilding options for S/C (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #763
Looks like I'm doing pretty good so far.
1973Guppie
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can you give me some more info on this please? I will be adding an aluminum radiator soon. Does this have to do with electrolysis between the engine and radiator? Is there anything else that needs to be done when you mount the AL rad?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #767
Yes it's specifically for electrolysis. It's an issue when you introduce aluminum into the cooling system. It becomes a sacrificial metal. The goal is to check the voltage your truck makes with truck off and the truck running with all AKS turned on. As long as you are under threshold you are good to go.
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1973Guppie
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cool, what is the "threshold" and an al rad should be grounded, correct?, wondering if I should simply run a grounding wire from one of the bolts to the frame? OR is the AL rad already grounded upon install with the bolts?
If you really worry about aluminum corroding go to a boating store and buy a strip of zinc, problem is where to mount it so it is in the coolant and easily visible for replacement if necessary. That what boats that sit in salt water all use.
Edit: just thought of this, hang it on a piece of string from the radiator cap might work. Now I think it we should do that anyways since our block is irons and head is aluminum.......hummm I might be onto something here. I have seen pix of very corroded head on mud.
Edit again: found out zinc needs to be electrically connected to the metal it is protecting so it can protect the aluminum radiator but there is no way to protect the aluminum head with zinc. And for it to work properly you need 1% of the surface area in zinc.
...Misspelled via IH8MUD app
Edit: just thought of this, hang it on a piece of string from the radiator cap might work. Now I think it we should do that anyways since our block is irons and head is aluminum.......hummm I might be onto something here. I have seen pix of very corroded head on mud.
Edit again: found out zinc needs to be electrically connected to the metal it is protecting so it can protect the aluminum radiator but there is no way to protect the aluminum head with zinc. And for it to work properly you need 1% of the surface area in zinc.
...Misspelled via IH8MUD app
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Any updates? Is everything performing well?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #771
Hmmm, well there is that "other" thread going on but no one reads it or posts to it so it just lingers out in the ether 
So I have 333699 miles on the truck as of today. That puts me at around 35k since the rebuild. Everything considered its doing very well. That being said, I did figure out that I do not have an OEM water pump so I still need to take care of that but I've been traveling and busy. I do also have a pesky PO325 (knock sensor) which is giving me a headache since its not the sensor itself but likely the wiring. I just need to devote the time to it. I may wind up doing the harness since Landtank promised it would only take three hours.
But its still driving great otherwise. Its a lot cooler right now so no over heating issues but that could change and likely due to the s***ty water pump that was used.
At this point, is there anything I would have done differently? Sure, I would have watched the shop like a hawk to be sure that only 100% of OEM parts that I picked up were used. I didn't and couldn't because I was out of the country a lot at the time. I probably would install the new harness if doing a full rebuild just for piece of mind. I've had a few gremlins that I could have avoided.
So I have 333699 miles on the truck as of today. That puts me at around 35k since the rebuild. Everything considered its doing very well. That being said, I did figure out that I do not have an OEM water pump so I still need to take care of that but I've been traveling and busy. I do also have a pesky PO325 (knock sensor) which is giving me a headache since its not the sensor itself but likely the wiring. I just need to devote the time to it. I may wind up doing the harness since Landtank promised it would only take three hours.
But its still driving great otherwise. Its a lot cooler right now so no over heating issues but that could change and likely due to the s***ty water pump that was used.
At this point, is there anything I would have done differently? Sure, I would have watched the shop like a hawk to be sure that only 100% of OEM parts that I picked up were used. I didn't and couldn't because I was out of the country a lot at the time. I probably would install the new harness if doing a full rebuild just for piece of mind. I've had a few gremlins that I could have avoided.
I've quite enjoyed the thread and its full of invaluable information. Thanks for putting in the work to document your build, the ensuing bugs, fixes and lessons learned.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #773
I am JUST about to roll 350k miles on the truck and 52k miles since the rebuild. Went to Hungry Valley (Gorman) this past weekend and the truck did great sitting in traffic, going up the Grapevine and crawling among the dirt and rocks. The whole time the temps never saw above 186º and the motor itself has been great. I have noticed that the PCV valve is letting out more oil than before so I think its time for a complete tune up since its now been 52k. Time to send an email to Onur and order me up some stuff.
Ok. I know this is an old thread. Did you ever get a chance to put it on a dyno? Did you do an Intercooler? Strange this thread just died like it did. Is there a followup thread somewhere?
No, I had overheating issues right after installing everything so I spent my time tracking down that issue/those issues.
No.
It didn't die, there has just been no appreciable updates. So far all is good
Welp, might as well post up the mileage.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #778
Supercharger Rebuild
At damn near 100k miles on the nose by Supercharger started making extra supercharger noises and power was noticeably dropping off. Knew the day would come.
The supercharger was removed and very carefully boxed up to send out to John Bond Performance in Iowa. It would take about two weeks for him to get it and evaluate it for rebuild.
Got their report in a PDF detailing the issues along with an estimate of $1500 for the rebuild. This turned out to be significantly more than I had expected since most rebuilds run about half that. But as the evaluation detailed, the bearings were run on low oil for a long time. I’d have to look at my notes to see if I had changed it and just underfilled it or if I never checked it (unlikely) or it was leaking (not likely).
It was another two-ish weeks and the supercharger was finished, bill paid, unit shipped, and now it sits waiting to go back into the truck. This will take a bit since I have so many other things to complete first.
Anyway, wanted to just post up about this rebuild. I’ll detail the install when it’s time.
At damn near 100k miles on the nose by Supercharger started making extra supercharger noises and power was noticeably dropping off. Knew the day would come.
The supercharger was removed and very carefully boxed up to send out to John Bond Performance in Iowa. It would take about two weeks for him to get it and evaluate it for rebuild.
Got their report in a PDF detailing the issues along with an estimate of $1500 for the rebuild. This turned out to be significantly more than I had expected since most rebuilds run about half that. But as the evaluation detailed, the bearings were run on low oil for a long time. I’d have to look at my notes to see if I had changed it and just underfilled it or if I never checked it (unlikely) or it was leaking (not likely).
It was another two-ish weeks and the supercharger was finished, bill paid, unit shipped, and now it sits waiting to go back into the truck. This will take a bit since I have so many other things to complete first.
Anyway, wanted to just post up about this rebuild. I’ll detail the install when it’s time.
