Electrical Issue... I think?

[80Series93]

Hey guys,

I should start off by saying hello first of all, I've joined the forum today but I've been searching and reading the topics in this the forum for a few years now. Great knowledge base here. But sadly the time has come that I need some help.. I'm stuck. And I figure my best option is probably to ask on here seeing as you all seem to know so much

Before anyone asks, I have searched this forum numerous times trying to find someone that has had/is having the same issue I am. I've found a few threads that have been similar, but not identical. So I'm hoping someone can give me an answer here.

I have a '93 model 80 series with the 1fz-fe engine. I haven't had it all that long - 5-6 months maybe. Was going great until recently. It's left me stranded on the side of the road a few times now in the last 2 months and I've had to put it on the back of a truck home, to the point now where I won't drive it because I never know how far I'm going to get, or if I'm going to reach my destination, or home again.

Basically it will fire up fine in the morning/cold and runs a treat, and it will drive great. But after a while (no saying how long or how short) it will just die. I'll be driving along and next minute the engine just cuts off. No coughing, no spluttering. Just silence. I still have lights, indicators, radio, horn etc. When I turn the key back to the "ON" position, I get no warning lights (Oil light, FUEL TANK light, etc) they just do not come on. The cluster is virtually dead other than the handbrake light and volt meter, which will move up to where it needs to be. When I try and start the car, the starter will engage and it will try to start but won't fire. After 10-15 mins, sometimes a little longer, all the warning lights re-appear in the dash and I can turn the key and it will fire into life again and run perfectly fine. And then again after a while of running it dies and I can't start it again. I was trying to figure it out, and with my test light I determined that when it cuts out and won't start there is no power to the 7.5A ignition fuse in the fuse box. When it will start again there is power. I then tested removing the fuse, and I can replicate the problem with that ignition fuse out. The car will turn over but no warning lights and won't fire.

So I'm guessing that my issue is electrical and has something to do with where ever the power is supplied for that ignition fuse. I have been looking at wiring diagrams and all sorts but I can't seem to figure it out. I'm hoping someone here might be able to offer some help before I take it into a shop and have it looked at. Would rather fix it myself and save some money.

Like I said I have had this issue since before the new year now and I have been messing around trying all different stuff an searching on here with no luck, and without asking for assistance but now I'm stuck and would really appreciate any input you guys can offer. I need the truck back on the road.

Oh and, since I kind of made this an introduction as well as a question, I've attached a pic of my 80

Thanks in advance for any help guys I sure would appreciate it.

- B

 

[blkprj80]

Your symptoms point to a bad fusible link or ignition switch.
I'd suggest starting with a new set of fusible links first as they are easy to change and if you haven't changed them before it's a great place to start.
Once you have the old out and new in, pull on the wires to see if any of them are weak or ready to break. You should be able to tug on them with a bit of force without them breaking.

 

[ajax1]

Check your wiring harness too look for melted sections and inside the glove box for chafing, all grounds hooked up on engine?

 

[80Series93]

All the grounds are good and I've checked as much of the harness as I can follow without having to disassemble anything major. I don't really understand these fusible links. why would they cause intermittent issues? Surely they would either carry the current or not... Maybe I'm too simple minded. I have read a few threads where they are mentioned or are the basis but still a little unclear. I've been a patrol boy up until I bought the 80 and I honestly never heard of them on the GU forums.

Thanks for the input though gentlemen. Appreciated and noted!

Thanks

- B

 

[2KCruiser]

Definitely check the fusible link, they sometimes do cause intermittent loss of 12v from battery to fuse panel. Don't even bother checking, just replace it, cheap insurance.

 

[bloc]

There are three fusible links, grouped into one part number. They power different groups of systems on the truck and could easily explain how some of your stuff works and some doesn't.

Try to find a relevant electrical wiring diagram and look at the "power source" section to see if you can identify any trends in what does and doesn't run when this is happening. You may be able to identify which part of the fusible link is acting up.

That said.. here they are about $15 for the group of three.. cheap enough to just replace and buy a spare.

Alternately, once the truck acts up you can pull each fuse in your box and see which ones are getting power and which ones aren't. This will quickly help you figure out which link it is.. or if it is something else entirely.

 

[SmokingRocks]

check my thread out.

Have you gone through water / snow recently?
Stranded.. Engine starts up then dies

 

[Dave 2000]

That 7.5 amp fuse exists for the diesel engine variants as well, if it connects badly it does exactly what your car does. Seeing as it powers up the ignition circuitry and one of the fusible links does the same I would definitely start there.

The fusible links are the 'last chance saloon' if another fuse does not blow, or someone has wired something without a fuse and it has shorted, hopefully the links will save your rig from a fire.

Modern vehicles now tend to have 'proper' fuses at the battery or a fused 'busbar'.

regards

Dave

 

[80Series93]

Thanks gents! Appreciate all the info! The only fuse that loses power is that ignition fuse, everywhere else in the fuse box has power. Also the fuse box under bonnet still has power when the engine cuts off. I have replaced the EFI relay because I read that could cause issues but that wasn't the problem. I will have to check the fusible links I suppose, but surely there isn't just one for the ignition it would do other things as well..?

Also, any idea where I can find an ignition switch? I've been looking today and it seems they are pretty hard to come by.. Not even eBay has one advertised.

Thanks!

- B

 

[ToyotaDon]

Yes, there is one fusible link (AM2) that feeds the ignition switch, which in turn feeds the IGN fuse, and all sorts of other circuits required to make the vehicle run.

 

[SmokingRocks]

check my thread out.

Have you gone through water / snow recently?
Stranded.. Engine starts up then dies

 

[SmokingRocks]

I would start by pulling every connector apart, hitting them with brake cleaner, the comp air, then dielectric grease and reconnect. Ensure that each connector is engaging. Also get the connector under the rear driver's side passenger foot well (fuel pump). This is easy and is a good thing to do.

I see you've focused in on am item and that's good. But I'd still do the above, you might just have water somewhere it shouldn't be.

 

[jonheld]

Fusible links are $12 for the set, are easy to replace, and are known to go intermittent over time. I change mine whenever I change batteries and keep a spare in the glove box. Yours are likely original from 1993.

 

[n00g7]

Problem indicates loose connection somewhere, exact same thing happened to me, except that it made it home and then died in the driveway. Turned out the fusible link contact with the + terminal wasn't that great. Cleaned up, reattached, gtg; however, I have it tagged for replacement next time I find myself near a Toyota dealership because it's looking tired. If it's not there, check where they terminate.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Or water in a connection (this has happened to me and is frustrating as hell to track down)

 

[80Series93]

Thanks for all the replies guys. You're all real helpful bunch and I sure do appreciate it!

I went to repco (probably one of the most common auto shops in Australia) and they claim they don't have an ignition switch listed. I was going to replace it just for the sake of replacing it. They have the barrel and key listed but I thought like most cars that the cruiser would have a plug on the end which would be the ignition switch. Or am I way off??

The fusible links I apparently have to remove and take in so they can match them up. They don't have a listing which is to be expected. It's a long weekend this weekend so hopefully I'll get to spend some time on it and get it up and running again.

To answer the questions above, the car hasn't been through any water since I've owned it and we aren't fortunate enough to have snow here... Lucky if we get a spot of rain.

Now here comes the noob question. What do the fusible links on the cruiser look like? Are hey like a fuse/bit of metal or actually just a wire?? These are honestly new news to me which is surprising I'm pretty switches on, or I know enough anyway.

Could there be any connection between the air conditioner and the cut outs? I only ask because when I have the airconditioner running it seems to happen more frequently than if the engine is running with it off. Someone suggested to me a thermal cut off but I find that hard to believe because the temperature of the coolant never breaches 80 degrees Celsius. And in addition to that I didn't think that a car this dated would have such a feature.

I've just been out and started her (it's been a while) and fired into life as expected. How long it runs for will be the next thing..

Thanks guys!

- B

 

[SmokingRocks]

They live about 4-8 inches down the electrical lines off of the + terminal on the battery.

Cheap and easy to replace / have trail spares. If the shop you are going to doesn't know these things then you ought to find a different shop that knows these rigs. Seriously, they may be good guys n all but it sounds like they don't know heads from tails on the 80. If that's the case they are much more likely to replace or suggest replacing failing oem parts with non oem parts, which could cause you tons of headaches.

If they are you palls then have a Fosters () with them on the weekend while your 80 is at a land cruiser specialists shop.

 

[Reelitchy]

Fuseable link is the three wires connected to the battery positive terminal.

 

[80Series93]

Thanks guys. I'll hit up my local Toyota dealer tomorrow and see if they can help.

- B

 

[alia176]

B,

Welcome to the madness! These kinds of threads are great for honing our troubleshooting skills. If you would, please list the things you've tried so we can keep track of your progress/frustration. People will keep firing ideas at you like a shotgun!

It does sound like your issues are related to a warm engine. Couple of quick things to check:
- after your engine dies, when you crank the engine, does your CEL (check engine light) come on in the instrument cluster?
- I wonder if any of your EFI relays are getting too hot and failing. Perhaps feel the temps of all your relays after the engine dies and see if any of them are unusually hot to the touch.