edit: This Is NOT normal!? Front diff issues

[fourtrax]

some more food for thought. if you end up having to replace gears and you wheel the cruiser any, have the shop set your new ring/gear up for a solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve. this way if you even hit you come down on a rock or have something hit the flange or driveshaft is wont cause any change or damage to the spacing between your ring and pinion gears.

 

[fourtrax]

true story. I moved to to Raleigh in sept 96' (yeah, actually got to raleigh 2 hours before hurricane Fran hit but, that's another story all together) purchased a 97 ranger 4x4 with a 4.0l a few months later. after spending a couple months cutting and removing down trees, I decided the seven, 12 foot tall crap myrtles someone planted about 14 inches from the drive way needed to go as well. the 1st couple came on ok, the next 5 were a little more stubborn, but managed to yank them out in low range. the last one, closest to the road was the largest one. I yanked on it a few times, it started to lean a little so, i just slowly rolled on the throttle, revs were building the tires were starting to chirp, truck was bucking a little then BAM, and quiet the truck had stalled. i got out and looked the tree was down. every thing looked ok. I unhooked the chain and went back to move the truck. It didn't want to start, finally it fired up. it was sort of running but not like a truck with 1,280 miles on it should. the check engine light was on. it was stumbling like a drunkard. I parked it then nursed it to the local FORD dealer to have them diagnosis the check engine light, rough idle and lack of power. they gave me a loaner vehicle and send me on my way, said they would call when they had an update. a couple days later i get a call. they said my part of the intake gasket had gotten sucked down into the engine, and Ford had not seen anything like this, so they were going to install a new engine in my new truck. took about a week to get it back. service was great, and never had any more issues with it. but, also never tried to pull any more shrubs with it either.

 

[slceso]

true story. I moved to to Raleigh in sept 96' (yeah, actually got to raleigh 2 hours before hurricane Fran hit but, that's another story all together) purchased a 97 ranger 4x4 with a 4.0l a few months later. after spending a couple months cutting and removing down trees, I decided the seven, 12 foot tall crap myrtles someone planted about 14 inches from the drive way needed to go as well. the 1st couple came on ok, the next 5 were a little more stubborn, but managed to yank them out in low range. the last one, closest to the road was the largest one. I yanked on it a few times, it started to lean a little so, i just slowly rolled on the throttle, revs were building the tires were starting to chirp, truck was bucking a little then BAM, and quiet the truck had stalled. i got out and looked the tree was down. every thing looked ok. I unhooked the chain and went back to move the truck. It didn't want to start, finally it fired up. it was sort of running but not like a truck with 1,280 miles on it should. the check engine light was on. it was stumbling like a drunkard. I parked it then nursed it to the local FORD dealer to have them diagnosis the check engine light, rough idle and lack of power. they gave me a loaner vehicle and send me on my way, said they would call when they had an update. a couple days later i get a call. they said my part of the intake gasket had gotten sucked down into the engine, and Ford had not seen anything like this, so they were going to install a new engine in my new truck. took about a week to get it back. service was great, and never had any more issues with it. but, also never tried to pull any more shrubs with it either.

That's amazing. I was telling my wife what I think this is going to cost just in materials if I can figure it out. Her response was, "we could have just paid to have the bushes removed, huh."

I know stump carnage but didn't suspect these buggers would grip the garbage sandy earth in my yard so well.

More to come.

 

[scottryana]

You could have paid to have them removed but then you wouldn't have had new @gearinstalls.com differentials with better gearing and all new bearings

No different than having to buy tools to do a job. Sure for the cost of the tools you could have paid someone to do it, but you get to keep the tools. Lol.

Pull the drain plug and check if there are big chunks in the oil and if so give Ken a ring at gearinstalls.com as he is probably the most well known Toyota gear guy and see what you need to do to have them built to handle shrubbery.

 

[slceso]

As evident by how this whole mess started, I like to try to do stuff myself. Then I never get around to it until it's a problem.

I know there are a lot of Nitro users out there, anybody bought this kit?
GPFJ80-SELECT-2

Being that I have the first year HDJ81, is there any known incompatibility that would prevent me from using this kit? I read somewhere that there were some year differences with E-lockers.

@Crab Sack @Trollhole @beno @SteveJackson @gearinstalls.com

Any opinions? I'll likely go 4.88. I've got 90k km on the whole drive train, but due to age I'll likely redo all of the axle seals and repack while I'm in there. What else?

behold the shrubberies! We lost a lot of good teeth that day...

 

[scottryana]

I get wanting to do things yourself, but gears are one of those things I would really leave to a pro. Not because its incredibly hard but there is an art to reading patterns, etc. I have had gears setup by well known shops that started leaking from the pinion or had noise on decal. The 80 front diff is also a little more pain than most if I remember right.

If you do decide to do it yourself Nitro has great stuff and you can get them from @justdifferentials

 

[fourtrax]

running nitro 4.88's in mine, with 35's and love it.

 

[SHREDwagon]

I've been considering a re-gear due to the 35s and 134 hp at the wheels anyway. I'm just hoping I don't have to buy new elocker moto/actuators.

Hey- Assuming an A442, there's not much point regearing for 35's unless you live in the mountains (which I do) or pull trailers alot. I'm trying to think of anyone who has re-geared for 35's with an HDT and can't. If you do, go 4:56. 4:88's are for 37's. The previous advice is from non-HDT owners.
3" Exhaust, tune, IC, turbo and transfer gears would be money better spent - in that order.
My advice would be to get a used 4:11's for cheap, have a shop swap gears, service axles and call it a week.
I've driven around with no front axles and pulled DS for 3 weeks. Duct-taped gorilla gloves over the ends with band clamps to keep dust and moisture out. Condom would work just as well.
Nice taste in music and good luck.

 

[slceso]

Hey- Assuming an A442, there's not much point regearing for 35's unless you live in the mountains (which I do) or pull trailers alot. I'm trying to think of anyone who has re-geared for 35's with an HDT and can't. If you do, go 4:56. 4:88's are for 37's. The previous advice is from non-HDT owners.
3" Exhaust, tune, IC, turbo and transfer gears would be money better spent - in that order.
My advice would be to get a used 4:11's for cheap, have a shop swap gears, service axles and call it a week.
I've driven around with no front axles and pulled DS for 3 weeks. Duct-taped gorilla gloves over the ends with band clamps to keep dust and moisture out. Condom would work just as well.
Nice taste in music and good luck.

It is fairly hilly here, and even on mild highway inclines I struggle with the M1101 (more of me being brilliant). Just got my garage opened up and drawers etc reinstalled (the two tasks were dependent on one another), so surgery will commence.

Also, I checked the diff fuse and it is good. I can hear the CDL relay, but no joy on the diff elockers. That will have to wait.

 

[mingles]

Several threads of similar occurrences pulling in reverse, some while wheeling, some while pulling out stumps .

Something bad happened in my front diff

Also, nice to see another M1101 owner. My LX pulls my M1101 just fine. I built sides on the flat deck version and it is amazing how much sand/gravel/mulch/crap you can haul with it. Just not fast ...

 

[slceso]

Ziploc'd hubs and removed front prop shaft. No more noise. Looked in the diff oil fill while rotating. Couldn't see anything broke but there does seem to be a lack of meshing every revolution.

Time for bed.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

oh wow

My money is on the front diff. Drain the gear oil, look for metallic flakes (chunks) falling out.

 

[Trollhole]

Possible you stripped your drive flanges. Best way to see is by putting a paint mark on the flange and the birf and go for a short drive. If the mark move which I'm praying for then it's just drive flanges. If not it is possible to be a blown birf though turning should be a challange. That being said you need to regear. I know you and how you like to put 1000lbs of gear in the back. Just so you know I have a set of Nitro 4:88's for a locked 80 and the build kits with solid spaces in stock. They are for my project 80 but I'm a ways away. My only problem is time. We are swamped. I've hired 3 more tech this month. But we are still behind and about 2 weeks out on getting to it.

 

[Trollhole]

But don't drive it but mere feet. The more you drive the more you take a chance of hosing up the locker. The magnetic drain plug will be your litmus test. Every clunk is more metal coming apart.

 

[nukegoat]

I get wanting to do things yourself, but gears are one of those things I would really leave to a pro. Not because its incredibly hard but there is an art to reading patterns, etc. I have had gears setup by well known shops that started leaking from the pinion or had noise on decal. The 80 front diff is also a little more pain than most if I remember right.

If you do decide to do it yourself Nitro has great stuff and you can get them from @justdifferentials

Rear is harder than front IMO

 

[slceso]

But don't drive it but mere feet. The more you drive the more you take a chance of hosing up the locker. The magnetic drain plug will be your litmus test. Every clunk is more metal coming apart.

Drain plug. Talked to Zuk and I'll be shipping out. Going with the stock 4.1 r&p since he's got a good take off there and that seems to be how most of the 1HD folks roll.

 

[slceso]

So, just to confirm, to remove the third, the axles have to come out, right? So calipers, spindles, everything, right?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yes. Now is when you should do the full blown front end rebuild.

 

[slceso]

found it:
3. REMOVE FRONT AXLE SHAFTS (See page SA−13)

Yes. Now is when you should do the full blown front end rebuild.

well, s***. Since I DD this mofo, guess this is happening later.

edit:
paging @beno ...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You can't drive it as-is. What's the difference?