So, I bought a surplus M1101 trailer..

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slceso

slceso

... pronounced "Jason"
10 Year
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Threads
22
Messages
676
Location
Clarksville, TN
Anyone ever seen, used, owned one of these? I really wanted a M-416 but they are real rare and $$$.

Anybody titled any gov surplus stuff in NC before? I ordered the SF-97, so hopefully that will help.

This guy was my inspiration, pulls one with FJC:
M1101/M1102 Trailers

upload_2016-11-30_16-34-45.webp
 
Did you already buy one or are you looking to buy one?

I have a M101A3 which is one generation older than the M1101. Love it, but I plan to sell it soon (will list it for $750) because I have a pickup now.
 
won at auction today. trying to figure out my trailer wiring and getting pieces/parts so I can get it home. I looked at M101 and 105 also, but the aluminum bed and lighter curb weight were attractive on this one. Hopefully the surge brakes are functional so I don't jackknife and close down all of I40 on the way back.
 
Hahaha, nice!! Congrats!!

What is the curb weight of that trailer? Did you get bows and a top as well or just the trailer?

Based on my last round of research the curb weight wasn't significantly different between the A3 and the 1101. Although the 1101 is aluminum, it has more material in it. Photo to compare:

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no bows or cover. that would be nice, but I want to put a rack on it for RTT or whatever.

Looks like M1101 1460 lbs, M105 ~2400-2750 depending on the variant. Both could probably be put on a bit of a diet. Those wheel sets with the runflat are like 160lbs apeice. Prolly worth it to not have to worry as much about blowouts.

Do you have the independent surge brakes? any issues? I worry about backing up. on a trail or up over an obstacle. Some people retrofit with electric, but I don't plan on doing a lot of crazy stuff to it. Just making it more functional with brackets/organization.
 
slceso said:
no bows or cover. that would be nice, but I want to put a rack on it for RTT or whatever.

Looks like M1101 1460 lbs, M105 ~2400-2750 depending on the variant. Both could probably be put on a bit of a diet. Those wheel sets with the runflat are like 160lbs apeice. Prolly worth it to not have to worry as much about blowouts.

Do you have the independent surge brakes? any issues? I worry about backing up. on a trail or up over an obstacle. Some people retrofit with electric, but I don't plan on doing a lot of crazy stuff to it. Just making it more functional with brackets/organization.
Click to expand...


Yeah, the M105 is a different animal altogether. Mine is a M101A3 which weighs about 1400# with the top and bows.

I do have the surge brakes, but they're not independent. The surge brakes work exceptionally well and really shine when there's a ton of weight in the trailer. I was able to pull 3500# worth of concrete in the trailer from my house to the dump due entirely to the surge brakes. Getting going isn't the hard part, it's stopping.

The big drawback like you said is backing up on a trail. If you have enough weight then backing up (especially up hill, not so much down hill) will cause the surge brakes to lock up. I got myself jacknifed on the trail with the trailer because of this issue and I was previously unaware of it. IIRC @fourtrax was able to get high enough up on the hill above me and winch my front end around so I could pull forward.

It's one of those things, if you know about it ahead of time you can deal with it pretty easily.
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As for the tires, the runflat was appealing to me and I did use it once, but the tires themselves are absolute garbage. They're loud, wear unevenly, have super weak sidewalls and the whole shebang is stupid heavy. The double-beadlock feature is badass though, which is why I have a set of recentered H1 wheels for my wheeling tires. The bolt pattern is the same 8x6.5 so I am running some H2 aluminum wheels on my M101A3 now. Much more better.

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You're going to LOVE your M1101. If you're planning on using it for expedition purposes, I'd right away ditch the entire rear axle including surge brakes. Buy a dexter axle with a 6x5.5 bolt pattern to run the same wheels as your LC and make sure that dexter axle has electric brakes. This will require a brake controller in your truck, ask @DeeRex about that, but will prevent the issues with surge brakes offroad.
 
My bad on the numbers. I thought 101 and 105 were more comparable. Had I known, I probably would have just hit you up, especially with all of the mods you've done to yours.

Argh! I was hoping you were going to say "surge brakes are best EVAR, no reason to ever swap that, axle or wheels!"

You wouldn't know it, but I try to be thrifty with gear. Maybe I can devise a lockout for the surge actuator.

I've got a guy making a replacement harness for the lights in a 4 pin flat config for close to the same price as a NATO to 7 pin. I was planning surge brakes 4 life.
 
slceso said:
My bad on the numbers. I thought 101 and 105 were more comparable. Had I known, I probably would have just hit you up, especially with all of the mods you've done to yours.

Argh! I was hoping you were going to say "surge brakes are best EVAR, no reason to ever swap that, axle or wheels!"

You wouldn't know it, but I try to be thrifty with gear. Maybe I can devise a lockout for the surge actuator.

I've got a guy making a replacement harness for the lights in a 4 pin flat config for close to the same price as a NATO to 7 pin. I was planning surge brakes 4 life.
Click to expand...

It's all good!!

You know what, now that you mention it, you may be able to disable the surge brakes for offroad use, you'll just have to be conscious of it and reconnect when you get back on road. Depending how heavy you set up your trailer it might not be safe to expedition wheel without trailer brakes. When you get the trailer send a pic of the surge brake mechanism, there might be an easy disconnect solution. The way it works is that the pintle ring on the trailer swings back and forth a few inches and the middle connects to the surge brake master cylinder. Maybe you can just disconnect the master cylinder from the pintle arm? Need to look at mine more carefully.

I love the surge brakes on the road. They're awesome. It's only backing up, uphill, with a load, that's a problem.
 
The surge brakes on my old boat trailer could be disengaged by putting a metal bar in between where the actuator slides forward. Not sure if your system has that capability.
 
For reference, the 15 ton pintle from Northern Tool will work with the 3" lunette ring on the M1101, although it will interfere with your receiver hitch and you may have to shim it. Sticker just for laughs.

IMG_20170224_165108.webp


IMG_20170224_165056.webp


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With the new springs and no load in trailer or truck bed. Note that CARC likes to wick spilled diesel fuel from the inside of the bed through the drain holes and up the exterior sides of the bed. Gonna have to figure out something with the spare so that I don't rip of the swingout in a tight uphill right turn.

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slceso said:
With the new springs and no load in trailer or truck bed. Note that CARC likes to wick spilled diesel fuel from the inside of the bed through the drain holes and up the exterior sides of the bed. Gonna have to figure out something with the spare so that I don't rip of the swingout in a tight uphill right turn.

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Your trailer has bigger tires than your Cruiser. You've got to fix that with 39's for the Cruiser.
 
slceso said:
If I go any bigger, I will have to do a 350 swap to be able to drive at highway speeds.
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No, plenty of power-adders available for your 1HD-T.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
No, plenty of power-adders available for your 1HD-T.
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I wish I was closer to you. I could use the know how and moral support. I've been looking at IC and boosting up. I could also use a re-gear.

jfz80 said:
but ill swap you my 350 if you really want ;)
Click to expand...

There are times, but I'm committed to the hype! If I swap it, then I lose. Kind of like this guy.
 
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