bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Amayama in Japan. Price… Sometimes more, sometimes less.
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DIY 4.3 Re-Gear (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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Oooh, do tell!
I was the guy that retrofitted the 80 series e-lockers into the FJ60s and such. And we did a ton of them!
I had a very detailed writeup with pics and part #s on the Yankee Toys site, but it seems to be no longer, or its moved.
Maybe Mr @KLF can direct us to where the site pages moved to?
From what i recall (cut me some slack, its been damn near 20 years, LOL), small notch into the housing, to clear the fork, and 2 of the studs on the housing need to be swapped out to longer ones where the actuator sits.
The wiring is fairly straight forward, and i used OEM harnesses from an 80 series and just modified them to work with the OEM switch.
Result? As we say here at Redneck Enterprises "OEM AS FAWKKK"
Poly Performance sold the axle shafts with the longer splines.
There was a company called Inchworm, or something along those lines that ended up making harnesses and such to make it basically a plug and play affair. Complete with the OEM locker swtich
80 series and 100 series elockers function exactly the same (from a wiring perspective), although not interchangeable.
If i recall correctly, 80 series is a full floater and 100/200 is a semi
Here is an OLD diagram i dug up online FWIW:
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bloc
SILVER Star
Ah yes, I didn’t think about the longer splined axle shaft.
I’d also caution this mod for anyone living where road salt is a thing.. those external actuators don’t resist corrosion well at all.
I’d also caution this mod for anyone living where road salt is a thing.. those external actuators don’t resist corrosion well at all.
Absolutely 100% agree with this!
This would required on a 200?
It was on the 60,80,100s that didn’t have locker from factory
The elocker collar slides along the axle shaft and a non locked vehicle had shorter splines
Wasn’t a big deal for the 80s and 100s because they were offered with a locker so the splines shaft was an OEM part that could be bought new, or sourced used.
No idea if the shafts between the 100 and the 200 are the same.
If they are, than the shaft could probably be bought at dealer or sourced used
If they’re different, and since the 200 never had a factory ELocker, that’s a whole different can of worms
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
200 shafts are different.
How So?
I’m genuinely curious because it seems folks are swapping in rear 3rd members from 100s into 200s
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
The 200 did receive the locker option. Toyota did us a solid with the 200. All rear axle shafts have the long spline and will readily accept the lockers sliding dog clutch.
Heck yeah!! Great info!
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
200 housing is wider so the 200 shafts are longer. Third members interchange.
Perfect! Thank you! Adding this to my notes on 200 research!
bloc
SILVER Star
This fact could be considered erotic reading to some users here..
<~~~~ This Guy
If the rear 3rd member is a direct bolt in, how does the smaller input flange and snout from the 100 get along with the 200 chassis?
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Everything mated right up. Been running strong 5 yrs now.
One thing to note, the mechanical actuator for the 100 series locker will not fit with the 200 sway bar.
I found an article that described how the 80 series guys were using an air actuator to engage the shift fork.
Seemed to be the better way to go.
Would anyone happen to know what this seal part number is…or what it’s called? It’s a sort of rubberized irregularly shaped o ring (with the red arrow pointing at it).
Also, does anyone know what the axle extension to front differential gasket is called? Or a part number?
Also, does anyone know what the axle extension to front differential gasket is called? Or a part number?
bloc
SILVER Star
That is RTV. The “o-ring” part you describe is just the bead squeezed to the inside as the parts are mated.
If you can’t find the official Toyota stuff permatex ultra gray is great in that application.
I can confirm: this tool did the job. 3 whacks and the bearing was out. It took longer to assemble the tool than it did to remove the part.
This tool is also free to “rent” from local auto parts store-I rented one from advanced discount auto parts.
Note: also the sprocket thing came out super easy with a hammer prying on one side and a crowbar on the other…it was more about having two implements w the right angle to pry at the same time than it was about force…the hardest thing about this was getting the 4 17mm bolts out of the extension…that required a map torch (red loctite), an impact, and a long extension(odd angle).
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