DIY 4.3 Re-Gear

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Zuk’s pictures and descriptions are old school but should be considered reference material for proper setup.

In short, best practice is to use all new bearings and crush spacer. Plus the installer will need enough various shims to dial in the pattern. I’ll post some pricing in a few hours.
I think all the parts are in the first post.

Edit: @TeCKis300 beat me to it.
 
What does this achieve? I know you have a whole gearing chart somewhere. Sorry.

It would bring gearing for 2016+ closer to stock, if running 34s on up. The 2016s already have great lower end gearing stock, on par with a 6-speed with 4.88s. So it might be to bring the shift logic back to optimal, as well as make 8th gear more useful with less hunting on the freeway.

Here's the link with more analysis.

So I had a little time this morning to put together a chart combining transmission gearing of 6-speed vs 8-speed, diff ratios, and tire sizing into an overall gearing reference. Hoping this will be useful for those trying to understand how their changes are going to effect overall gearing of the setup.

View attachment 1638841

EDIT: Adding additional reference info
Few notes:
1) Yellow and Red denote marginal to poor ratios for the setup
2) Even with 37s, the 8-speed first gear gearing is better than the stock 6-speed gearing with 31s!
3) The 8-speed has a huge gearing span. With an ultra low first gear enough to tug anything stock. This would also benefit crawl ratios in low range. 6-speed: 34.1:1, 8-speed: 41.5:1. For comparison: 4Runner 34:1, Wrangler 39:1, Rubicon Wrangler 73:1

View attachment 1638764

View attachment 2951017

View attachment 2951023

Engine RPMs at 55, 65, and 75mph
View attachment 1638912
 
Thats the one thanks! Watching that thread now.

I'm very happy at the moment, specially with the new pedal commander making this more lively. I will say sport and sport plus are a bit out of character though.
Still considering what to do when the eventual tire upgrade comes. I don't want to exceed 34" but that 3.9 chart still looks nice.
Id be right at the threshold...
 
Isn't the 4.30 gear set from Toyota $700 (41201-80493 from PartSouq shipped $679.57). If you were also adding an e-locker to the rear during the swap, would it make sense to get the 4.3 gear set from Toyota and a good used Tundra front? Or am I missing some part of the equation. I guess what I'm asking is if you are doing the e-locker, does the rear end need to be reset anyways, so you aren't saving any effort by using a 100series take off lump as far as ease of install?

This is the route I chose and it's worked out for me so far.
 
Sorry I'm not clear, you sourced 200-series 4.3s and had them set up?
Yes, I used a Tundra 4.3 diff for the front and I sourced the OEM 4.3 gears from Parsouq for about $650. I then rebuilt the rear diff with the new gears, new bearings, and an Eaton locker.
 
Yes, I used a Tundra 4.3 diff for the front and I sourced the OEM 4.3 gears from Parsouq for about $650. I then rebuilt the rear diff with the new gears, new bearings, and an Eaton locker.
Nice. It’s good to verify those numbers as correct.

Now I need to decide whether I want to brush up my diff setup skills..
 
FWIW, a complete 4.30 diff 41110-60A31 can be in your hands for about $1573. Sounds like a lot, but factor in the reselling of the old diff, and the time… time is worth soooooo much these days. Also the piece of mind that every single part and spec in that chunk is brand new Toyota Japan set-up at the factory.…
 
FWIW, a complete 4.30 diff 41110-60A31 can be in your hands for about $1573. Sounds like a lot, but factor in the reselling of the old diff, and the time… time is worth soooooo much these days. Also the piece of mind that every single part and spec in that chunk is brand new Toyota Japan set-up at the factory.…
Interesting for sure. What about for the rear?
 
FWIW, a complete 4.30 diff 41110-60A31 can be in your hands for about $1573. Sounds like a lot, but factor in the reselling of the old diff, and the time… time is worth soooooo much these days. Also the piece of mind that every single part and spec in that chunk is brand new Toyota Japan set-up at the factory.…

That would be to the easy button. Swapping in would be doable in a day for front and rear.

Unless one wanted a rear locker...
 
There are clutch pack LSD and E Locker versions for few hundred more. The e-locker needs axle housing mods and the sway bar is of course the major hurdle.
PN for one with elocker? I'd be very interested in this. Is the sway bar only an issue for KDSS? I have an LX
 
There are clutch pack LSD and E Locker versions for few hundred more. The e-locker needs axle housing mods and the sway bar is of course the major hurdle.

Oooh, do tell! :)
 
I’ll have to dig up the numbers as there are several.

The LX570 should not have sway bar issues.

Went digging. Not sure why the part numbers are not differentiated as they are both listed as 41110-60A20 assemblies, or 41302-60080 carrier part numbers, but they do exist.

LSD:
1680283694939.webp


Locked:
1680283663017.webp



The electronics might be another story. The OE stuff is a bit more complex than power on/off.
 
The latest numbers I have found for 4.30… please verify if you plan to order.

41110-60A31 open
41110-60A61 LSD
41110-60B01 Locker

Wiring the locker has been well covered over the last 20+ years...
 
41110-60B01 Locker is $2100-$2200 shipped form Partsouq. Is there an available vendor who ships from Japan that you can recommend? Looks like it includes the actuator as well.
 
The electronics might be another story. The OE stuff is a bit more complex than power on/off.
Assuming it uses similar logic to the system in most previous Toyotas people have been reverse engineering them and building at-home circuits for years. Possibly even sourcing controllers from early rigs where everything wasn’t handled by the BCM (body control module) for an easily wired setup.
 

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