Can anyone confirm that 41201-80483 is a 4.3 ring and pinion that will fit a 2007 200 series front diff.
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I believe so. Came in a 2011 5.7L 4.3 ratio tundra.Can anyone confirm that 41201-80483 is a 4.3 ring and pinion that will fit a 2007 200 series front diff.
Can anyone confirm that 41201-80483 is a 4.3 ring and pinion that will fit a 2007 200 series front diff.
What large bearing separator plate did you use?While it's fresh in my mind, some tips and shortcuts to removing the front diff carrier
1) Remove driveshaft - FSM calls complete removal. I only removed the end connected to the front diff. Once the front carrier is separated from its mounts, there's enough play to get the driveshaft off the studs
2) Remove CVs - FSM call for significant disassembly of the suspension. None of that is necessary as there's no need to pull the CV off the hub side. I just pulled the 2 big bolts holding the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle to have enough room to separate the inner CV.
3) Separate inner CV - this takes some good force. With the pry I had, I couldn't get the right leverage against the carrier lip, and without confidence I wouldn't damage it. Used a large bearing separator plate in the gap around the axle and against the carrier, as a flat solid protected surface to pry against. Made quick work once I had that.
What large bearing separator plate did you use?
Would you recommend this one?I have an old one that looks like this. I imagine any one could work. Put it behind the CV to have a flat surface to pry against.
View attachment 3264185
Would you recommend this one?
Bearing Separator and Puller Set
Amazing deals on this Bearing Separator And Puller Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
Has anyone tried this tool and can confirm it worked?Sometimes the right tool makes or breaks a job.View attachment 2349693
That’s right.I seem to remember @Taco2Cruiser posting in the past that if the retaining clip is in the right orientation it is much easier to pop the inner CV out. He also said he goes by feel…
My plan was to keep trying it in 30 degree increments to hopefully stumble upon the sweet spot.
Super confusing subject. I struggled with it.I've read this whole thing and only feel dumber now
For 4.3 easiest DIY install, I need a tundra 4.3 front and a 100 series rear? Any 100 rear? And they bolt in, but may be a good idea to rebuild them? Lockers DO exist on some 100 series rears?
For 4.88 only option is to buy nitros? Anyone give a ballpark on having a shop do the 4.88?
Round numbers for the ballparkAnyone give a ballpark on having a shop do the 4.88?
Front and rear 4.88s plus lockers set me back about $5500. If I'd skipped the lockers it was probably a $2500-3000 job.Round numbers for the ballpark
Rear eLocker - $1250
Front Locker and bearings - $850
Rear Locker and bearings - $850
12 hours shop time - $1500 (YMMV)
Optional while you're in theres
New Rear Bearings + install - $500
New CVs - $1000
If you need housings have to add that in separately.
Different 100 years had different gear ratio’s. Later ones had 4.10’s.I've read this whole thing and only feel dumber now
For 4.3 easiest DIY install, I need a tundra 4.3 front and a 100 series rear? Any 100 rear? And they bolt in, but may be a good idea to rebuild them? Lockers DO exist on some 100 series rears?
For 4.88 only option is to buy nitros? Anyone give a ballpark on having a shop do the 4.88?
Different 100 years had different gear ratio’s. Later ones had 4.10’s.
Generally people purchase Harrop e lockers or arb lockers and install them into the diffs, rather than sourcing a 1998-1999 rear diff that has a locker.
Arb lockers are usually 1000-1200 each…but you have to buy a compressor to run them for like $200.
E lockers are usually like $1350 each.
Can you tell me how much your trailer weighs?Pretty sure that can work.
Can you tell me how much your trailer weighs?