The VCV on on the distributor won't help with emissions but will eliminate the "popping" in the distributor where it draws cabin air into the distributor to displace combustible fumes from the crankcase.
Distributor cap vent VCV issue (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter land crusher
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
The 80 VCV is an exact swap. That was what I was telling Ryan that night he was w/ you. And yes CruiserParts has them used and dirty for $10... they say the test them prior to sale.
sheepdawg
Champagne appetite. Beer income.
First off. Does anyone know what happened to Output Shaft? He was a such a valuable resource.
Quick question.
I bought the fj80 VCV evap from Beno and am using it on my 83 fj60 and was wondering, can I connect the S pipe of the VCV eval directly to my gas filter for constant vacuum?
Question 2:
When is there vacuum from the X and Z pipe of the VCV to suck out Ozone from the Dizzy? Currently with the S port to the gas filter, I am not getting vacuum from either the x or z pipes at idle.
Quick question.
I bought the fj80 VCV evap from Beno and am using it on my 83 fj60 and was wondering, can I connect the S pipe of the VCV eval directly to my gas filter for constant vacuum?
Question 2:
When is there vacuum from the X and Z pipe of the VCV to suck out Ozone from the Dizzy? Currently with the S port to the gas filter, I am not getting vacuum from either the x or z pipes at idle.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
@mwebfj60 and @CaptClose are both pretty thorough on the way those gadgets work. My understanding is that OS felt mud was taking up too much of his brain and decided to leave. I miss his input too. Maybe some who are close to him could ask him to reconsider.
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Yes, the VCV is connected direct to manifold vacuum. It can happen through the stock spaghetti tube, or on a desmog truck it is connected direct to 'gas filter' manifold vac fitting.
There is not measurable vacuum at the X,Y,Z ports. Y goes to the air cleaner housing which is a very weak vacuum source, just enough to pull some dirty air out of dissy, pulling some clean air in through Z from glovebox vent.
If problems persist the glovebox vent may be a questionable filtered air source. I was having distributor in-cab pffffttt issues with an old VCV so replaced it with a new one. Occasionally the in-cab pfftt would return so I routed the fresh air line to a cheap fuel filter mounted to the firewall. Since then no further in-cab micro-explosive issues.
I've blown the line off the Distributor VCV yesterday. Felt a pop, knew immediately what went wrong and moved on.
I'm going to assume that my VCV is bad, so I ordered a new one from @cityracer65 and I'll double check the routing at that point. Either the VCV is bad or lines are on inncorrectly.
Either way, it will be fixed.
I'm going to assume that my VCV is bad, so I ordered a new one from @cityracer65 and I'll double check the routing at that point. Either the VCV is bad or lines are on inncorrectly.
Either way, it will be fixed.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Weird, I had the pop and smell for a few months, fixed vacuum lines and never heard it again. I'm curious if its possible the VCV failed and is leaking internally. Any input?
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Following up from my last post. Finally stopped being lazy from testing the VCVs and I was pleasantly surprised. The Distributor vent VCV wouldn't hold vacuum. Swapped with Evap vcv which tested successfully and it finally resolved my cold start hesitation.
Ordered two new 80 series vcv's...so happy to finally have resolved this. Many thanks to all
Ordered two new 80 series vcv's...so happy to finally have resolved this. Many thanks to all
those internal leaks are a bear to finger...
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
So I got my replacements in, direct replacement. I didn't even have to run a longer vac hose to port S, if you rotate the distributor vac ports on the Vacuum T, everything fits as is.
Decided to pop the bad VCV open and see what it looked like as it wouldn't hold any vacuum. Diaphragm was totally shot as expected. Interesting not, the spring is adjustable via a plastic set screw which is epoxied over from Aisin.
Decided to pop the bad VCV open and see what it looked like as it wouldn't hold any vacuum. Diaphragm was totally shot as expected. Interesting not, the spring is adjustable via a plastic set screw which is epoxied over from Aisin.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Way cool popping that open. Finding a replacement diaphragm for that wouldn't be hard. I saw ones similar enough when I was searching for something close enough to the vac adv ones.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Only downside is figuring out how to cleanly separate halves. The two plastics are bonded and don't budge. Had to dremel :/
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Better dremel wheel and JB weld or epoxy glue. Your on it.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I scavenged a good working VCV from my unneeded '86 FJ60 spaghetti for venting the distributor cap on the FJ60 distributor I just installed in my '76 FJ40. I'm using the cabin filter from my '89 FJ62 donor vehicle. It'll be easy enough to tap into my '76 air cleaner, and my intake manifold has the 3-port gas filter. Two of the ports have been capped, so I'll use one of those. Off to the hardware store to buy some of the larger diameter hoses.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I stopped by O'Reilly's in Santa Fe after dinner and bought some suitable hoses for the line from the distributor cap to the filter at the firewall (Prestone windshield washer hose) and from the VCV to the distributor cap and the VCV to the air cleaner (Prestone radiator overflow hose). I bought enough to do both my '71 and '76 FJ40s. Total with tax was less than $10. The K&S tubing will be used for adding nipples at the air cleaners, I'll use what I had left over from the axle breather extensions on my lifted '86 FJ60 project vehicle.
I staged the photo on one of my pickings from what's left (virtually nothing) of the now-closed Sears store in Santa Fe. It should come in handy for carting arounds tools, materials, and supplies in the garage and out on the driveway as I work on my Land Cruisers.
So to revive this old thread I was wondering a little more about the testing of the VCV. I have mine off the truck and I can suck on the S port and I hear air. Isn't this port supposed to hold vacuum? I tried doing the test from the FSM and when I hook the mighty vac up to the S port I can't get it to hold a vacuum. I assume that means it is bad? Thanks for the help!
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The S port should be airtight. When vacuum is applied it should move the diaphragm inside, opening the connection between the 2 large ports.
On yours, the rubber diaphragm has crumbled, so the S port is a big vac leak and the valve doesn't open.
On yours, the rubber diaphragm has crumbled, so the S port is a big vac leak and the valve doesn't open.
g-man
SILVER Star
I just had the mini explosions start to happen. A few times at start up. A startling popping sound inside the cabin. It's blowing the Z line off the VCV from the dizzy. Just before this started happening, I replaced some very old 6mm lines to that VCV. I'm not sure if the better seal has revealed the leaking valve or if the better seal caused more vacuum and torn the diaphragm in the ancient VCV. But, upon testing with vacuum at port S, no vacumm is holding. Blew through it ...not holding. Obviously a large tear inside the VCV diaphragm. For now its removed and I've plugged the line to the air cleaner and the vacuum line to port S, until the part comes in.
Interestingly, USA online dealers show part 90925-03192 as $80.00 and change plus another $5 to $9 in shipping plus state taxes. Partsouq shows it unavailable. I went with Amayama at $35.00 and about 17.00 more with shipping to me. So about $53.00. This is why I like to shop non USA dealers because even with shipping sometimes you can get a much better price.
Tested the EVAP VCV...it's holding. Although I should probably order another one for this. Funny how all my plastic valves are starting to fail around the same time. Just recently replaced my EGR modulator valve.
Thanks to @OSS again for coming up with this solution for another NLA part.
Interestingly, USA online dealers show part 90925-03192 as $80.00 and change plus another $5 to $9 in shipping plus state taxes. Partsouq shows it unavailable. I went with Amayama at $35.00 and about 17.00 more with shipping to me. So about $53.00. This is why I like to shop non USA dealers because even with shipping sometimes you can get a much better price.
Tested the EVAP VCV...it's holding. Although I should probably order another one for this. Funny how all my plastic valves are starting to fail around the same time. Just recently replaced my EGR modulator valve.
Thanks to @OSS again for coming up with this solution for another NLA part.
