Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (3 Viewers)

[maxamillion2345]

I like his solution the tube 90 adapters are a cool setup that makes routing cleaner and the hose shorter. Both those tube 90s are probably less restrictive than my one machined 90. Also lets you keep straight ends on the hose making building the hose less complicated, no clocking fittings pre crimp.

I have ordered up both of those fittings, I beleive the o-ring version is the pump side and the inverted flare is the toyota box side.

I was planning on using a JIC/AN -6 female 90 at both ends of the hose to screw into the two adapter fittings. Is that how you routed yours?

Also, so I don't get hosed when I go to get some lines made up, what is a reasonable cost to expect per line?

Coming out of the back of the pump I have the adapter (-6 male jic) and then I used a male female 90* -6 JIC adapter to go straight towards the hood, in a perfect world you don't really want 90* adapters in your system but whatever, then I used a small chunk of -6 hose with -6 female JIC ends on it, ran it up in a loop and came back down straight into the box. You could use whatever ends on the hose you want but it makes it easier IMO with straight fittings, easier to clock the hoses but it can be done with a 45 or a 90 on one end, more complicated when you put two 45s or 90s because the hose has a memory and you need to know how you want the ends clocked. I feel like a straight hose has more versatility for me as well, I carry a pile of adapters to adapt up or down sizes and different angles and to adapt to boss or flat face o ring, so I can always use it elsewhere on someone elses rig or whatever...

Personally I just felt straight straight was easier, and then use whatever adapter you need. There's probably an argument in there about restriction of adapters vs hose ends where adapters lose but hey, it's a give and take. If you can make a 90 on one end work for you that could work out pretty well I think and still be easy enough to clock -- just remember the memory of the hose, you probably want the fitting perpendicular to that. Okay so that was kind of flip floppy but hopefully you understood what I meant. I'll snag you a picture...

I think a short hose from the pump to the box should run you around 20$ fittings are probably a few bucks each plus hose plus time to make the hose. Adapters would probably run you I'd say 5 ish bucks each.

I took a look for -6 90's with a nice smooth radius..less restriction/heat. I ordered up two of these fittings. A bit pricey and a bit flashy, but were the only ones I could find that had that radius bend.

Aeroquip FCM3155 Steel 90 Degree Male To Female Swivel Flare Amazon.com: Aeroquip FCM3155 Steel 90 Degree Male To Female Swivel Flare: Automotive

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Thanks!

 

[Dirty Koala]

Sorry for the delay, was travelling with the family. My hydraulic hose is 4k psi rated with -6 JIS straight fittings and a pair of aeroquip smooth radius AN #6 Male to felmale 90's for each end. I then have adapters in the box and back of pump to go to #6 AN.

For anyone reading this that is confused by JIS and AN, basically the numbering is the same (#6 AN = -6 JIS) the AN version just has a tighter tolerance when machining.

 

[lckarl]

This is off the most recent topic of fittings, sorry for the deviation. IIRC, you had posted in the thread some time back that you had calculated your fuel mileage somewhere in the low 20s which seems to be better than most are getting with a 6bt, although some of the setups are using the power robbing A343F which may certainly account for the difference. I have been wondering if you have been getting fuel mileage consistently in the low 20s. I am staring a new swap soon and have been trying to decide on a power plant. I would have already settled on a 12v if it weren't for the weight. Thanks for any additional insight on the mpg.

 

[Dirty Koala]

This is off the most recent topic of fittings, sorry for the deviation. IIRC, you had posted in the thread some time back that you had calculated your fuel mileage somewhere in the low 20s which seems to be better than most are getting with a 6bt, although some of the setups are using the power robbing A343F which may certainly account for the difference. I have been wondering if you have been getting fuel mileage consistently in the low 20s. I am staring a new swap soon and have been trying to decide on a power plant. I would have already settled on a 12v if it weren't for the weight. Thanks for any additional insight on the mpg.

Yes I have consistently been getting low 20's. The worst I have recorded (when paying attention) was 18mpg. This was fully loaded at 8000+ lbs with some very spirited driving at altitude.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Thats impressive. I get used to get 18-19 when I drove slower. Driving 70-75 plus traffic I get 15-16.

 

[lckarl]

I wonder where the difference is? I think you both have p-pump motors and NV4500's?
I consider the 6bt to be one of the best most versatile diesel engines ever.

 

[lckarl]

I think you might also be running similar size tires, any gearing differences to account for the fuel mileage differences?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

His motor is probably in better condition. I'm pretty sure I could use an injector cleaning.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I had my motor rebuilt before I installed it. The biggest difference is going to be our pistons. I am running a larger bowl style piston made by Mahle...almost a marine style. It's great for power and apparently efficiency, but these cold northern temps are a PIA to get her started...I didn't think that through properly when choosing my pistons. If I were to do the engine build over again I would have stayed with stock pistons to make cold starts easier. I am most likely going to install an espar or webasto coolant heater this coming year to make starting in cold a non issue.

 

[cody c]

Maybe try a heater on your fuel filter and injection pump, in conjunction with the glow screen I think it will make a difference, but may need to be on longer than the glow screen for starting.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Maybe try a heater on your fuel filter and injection pump, in conjunction with the glow screen I think it will make a difference, but may need to be on longer than the glow screen for starting.

I will need to check to see if I still have the fuel heater installed in the fuel filter...I know it's not hooked up. Are you running a fuel heater?

 

[lckarl]

I wonder what is better heating the oil or coolant? I think oil might be better for lubrication purposes, but maybe less so for starting. A good block heater should go along way to help with starting.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Are you running block heater? I will plug mine in if the temps get in the 30's mainly so it doesn't take as long for my heater to start working.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I also don't notice any difference with using grid heater when starting. I should probably check and see if it works or is just making noise.

 

[cody c]

Check your heater is drawing and heating. The most crucial thing is the diesel and air (which will cool diesel quickly) are warm or hot.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I have a block heater, and and grid heaters that I wired up to a OEM rear defogger switch after making the switch momentary. Down to the low 40's, maybe mid 30's, I can start using just the grid heaters, but it takes a while and is a massive smoke show. Below that and I need the block heater plugged in for about 45 mins and it's still a smoke show until it's running and warmed up. I don't like being reliant on a 120v outlet to get started...Kinda defeats the purpose of having a very manual rig and when you are very remote, there are no outlets unless you bring a generator with you...not gonna happen.

 

[lckarl]

I had my motor rebuilt before I installed it. The biggest difference is going to be our pistons. I am running a larger bowl style piston made by Mahle...almost a marine style. It's great for power and apparently efficiency, but these cold northern temps are a PIA to get her started...I didn't think that through properly when choosing my pistons. If I were to do the engine build over again I would have stayed with stock pistons to make cold starts easier. I am most likely going to install an espar or webasto coolant heater this coming year to make starting in cold a non issue.

I guess if you switched to a bowl style or dished piston you lowered your compression ratio which maybe is making it harder to start. I haven't specifically researched how compression ratios affect a 12v's ability to start when cold, but I am curious now.

As a general rule as you lower the compression ratio it is going to be harder to start, especially as it gets colder.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I guess if you switched to a bowl style or dished piston you lowered your compression ratio which maybe is making it harder to start. I haven't specifically researched how compression ratios affect a 12v's ability to start when cold, but I am curious now.

As a general rule as you lower the compression ratio it is going to be harder to start, especially as it gets colder.

yes I definatley lowered my compression ratio which makes cold starting a PIA. The espar/webasto is probablyy the only fool proof solution to start in cold weather.

 

[maxamillion2345]

https://www.amazon.com/Kats-33100-Button-Ether-Start/dp/B000I8XDTY