Delta VS Radius Arms (4 Viewers)

[AutoCraft Aus]

Yes, did that, have forged arms that look just like factory with arm clearance and 3 deg caster at 3" lift with OE supplier bushes that centre the wheelbase coming this year. Arm flips were big after starting to do them for bigger lifts in the late 90s, laser cut steel fabbed arms were big for a while early to mid 2000's, some had cracking issues at the welds, or snapping the hardened steel arm sections.

We used to use 79 arms [2mm thicker eyes than 80 then, 105 went to 79 arms too in the end] back in the day, and bore the chassis end eye out to fit a caster bush in there to move the axle forward in about 2001, along with washer mod, and 2 deg bushes.

We have been using offset bearings in the swivels for 20 years or so, more caster and to set neg camber as well, making the truck more "pointy" and the heavy duty rear sway bar helps stop the roll steer with the front turning in nicely.

We even did plates to weld to the chassis brackets for 20 years that moves the axle forward 1 1/2" for bigger tyres and centred wheel in the fender on cruisers.

We have even had drill bits made to change the tie rod tapers, and use larger tie rods with more articulation, which offers more clearance to the radius arms by the tie rods being taller too, in the past with all the extra wheel travel etc too.

Have done 2 deg bushes and washer mod for ever, and most requiring the arm clearance for the tie rod have come in with that issue, and been fixed as part of the vehicle set up whilst in the shop.

Also working on 16" front set up with coil overs and bypasses, and 4 link set up, to go with the 18s and a frame upper rear #superslinky set up.

[80 chassis 70 body 4 link this one]

I even run these arms backward and upside down in my camper trailer, with air bags and custom shocks and panhard rod, so I can drop the 35" tire trailer to the bump stop when parked for easier access, inflates and pumps up to ride height when plugged back into vehicle power.

So I guess we have done a fair bit with this style of arm over the years

 

[shocktower]

Yes, did that, have forged arms that look just like factory with arm clearance and 3 deg caster at 3" lift with OE supplier bushes that centre the wheelbase coming this year. Arm flips were big after starting to do them for bigger lifts in the late 90s, laser cut steel fabbed arms were big for a while early to mid 2000's, some had cracking issues at the welds, or snapping the hardened steel arm sections.




We used to use 79 arms [2mm thicker eyes than 80 then, 105 went to 79 arms too in the end] back in the day, and bore the chassis end eye out to fit a caster bush in there to move the axle forward in about 2001, along with washer mod, and 2 deg bushes.

We have been using offset bearings in the swivels for 20 years or so, more caster and to set neg camber as well, making the truck more "pointy" and the heavy duty rear sway bar helps stop the roll steer with the front turning in nicely.
View attachment 1815020

We even did plates to weld to the chassis brackets for 20 years that moves the axle forward 1 1/2" for bigger tyres and centred wheel in the fender on cruisers.
View attachment 1815019

We have even had drill bits made to change the tie rod tapers, and use larger tie rods with more articulation, which offers more clearance to the radius arms by the tie rods being taller too, in the past with all the extra wheel travel etc too.

Have done 2 deg bushes and washer mod for ever, and most requiring the arm clearance for the tie rod have come in with that issue, and been fixed as part of the vehicle set up whilst in the shop.

Also working on 16" front set up with coil overs and bypasses, and 4 link set up, to go with the 18s and a frame upper rear #superslinky set up.

[80 chassis 70 body 4 link this one]
View attachment 1815016

View attachment 1815015

I even run these arms backward and upside down in my camper trailer, with air bags and custom shocks and panhard rod, so I can drop the 35" tire trailer to the bump stop when parked for easier access, inflates and pumps up to ride height when plugged back into vehicle power.

View attachment 1815021

So I guess we have done a fair bit with this style of arm over the years

I have been banging my head about how to build my over land trailer now you just gave me an idea with the Front Radius arms I knew I wanted air bags, just couldn't get the right idea for my suspension arms and I wanted stock th Toyota wheels. Thank you

 

[Delta VS]

Just added the ability to purchase new Toyota hardware to go with your new radius arms. Complete set of new radius arm hardware (6 bolts, 6 nuts, 2 washers) can be included in your order for $60. Factory service manual states these are one time use bolts, so we recommend replacing. We do not require their purchase, knowing many folks have their preferred source of OEM parts.

 

[OGBeno]

Just added the ability to purchase new Toyota hardware to go with your new radius arms. Complete set of new radius arm hardware (6 bolts, 6 nuts, 2 washers) can be included in your order for $60. Factory service manual states these are one time use bolts, so we recommend replacing. We do not require their purchase, knowing many folks have their preferred source of OEM parts.

View attachment 1832073

Very smart.

That said, 94 people are going to tell you their life is fine reusing bolts and then 97 people are going to tell you that you will die if you reuse the bolts.

 

[Delta VS]

Very smart.

That said, 94 people are going to tell you their life is fine reusing bolts and then 97 people are going to tell you that you will die if you reuse the bolts.

Thank you kind sir.

Kind of used to it now. Seems like if you get 15 Mud members in a thread, you'll end up with 19 pieces of advice and learn of 23 ways you're doing it wrong...

 

[Dirty Koala]

The Delta VS radius arms and rear panhard bracket have transformed the handling of my LX450. The suspension is a 75mm HD slinky setup and there was zero clearance issues with the rear bracket. I am very impressed with the engineering and thought put into Delta's products.

 

[COYS]

Delta dude,

I currently run the 2.5" OME lift with Metal Tech branded caster correction plates. Latest alignment check reads 3.75"-4" positive caster and the rig drives as good as ever. Straight and true. Minimal correction at hwy speeds now even on 315/75/16s with 10" wide wheels.

-I like the look of the Delta arms

-I like that you get me back the stock wheelbase as I did notice the front axles shifted every so slightly rearward

-I like that it's an easy install as you ship with new OEM bolts/nuts and bushings

Current height at all four corners sit at approx ~22.75-23" from hub center to bottom of factory fender (IIRC, front driver or pass side was the only one in the high 22s).

I'm interested to learn about which Delta arm you recommend given my setup to get me *exactly* the driving experience I'm enjoying now. I understand you sell 2" and 4" lift versions. I want the $60 OEM hardware kit plus new OEM bushings. I'll keep my current stock arms as spares.

I didn't tack weld the plates. My OCD doesn't like the idea of having any part of my front axle drilled due to the plates, but I'm guessing this is required to fit caster plates? If drilled, is this going to cause any problems to safely, reliably install/operate the Delta arms?

Had I known about their availability, I would've bypassed the plates all together! Thanks in advance for the guidance.

 

[Delta VS]

Delta dude,

1. I currently run the 2.5" OME lift with Metal Tech branded caster correction plates. Latest alignment check reads 3.75"-4" positive caster and the rig drives as good as ever. Straight and true. Minimal correction at hwy speeds now even on 315/75/16s with 10" wide wheels.

2. -I like the look of the Delta arms

3. -I like that you get me back the stock wheelbase as I did notice the front axles shifted every so slightly rearward

4. -I like that it's an easy install as you ship with new OEM bolts/nuts and bushings

5. Current height at all four corners sit at approx ~22.75-23" from hub center to bottom of factory fender (IIRC, front driver or pass side was the only one in the high 22s).

6. I'm interested to learn about which Delta arm you recommend given my setup to get me *exactly* the driving experience I'm enjoying now. I understand you sell 2" and 4" lift versions. I want the $60 OEM hardware kit plus new OEM bushings. I'll keep my current stock arms as spares.

7. I didn't tack weld the plates. My OCD doesn't like the idea of having any part of my front axle drilled due to the plates, but I'm guessing this is required to fit caster plates? If drilled, is this going to cause any problems to safely, reliably install/operate the Delta arms?

Had I known about their availability, I would've bypassed the plates all together! Thanks in advance for the guidance.

Added some numbers to your questions (and comments) so I can answer directly below:

First things first, I’m not sure how the hub/wheelwell measurements translate to lift and caster, I ask everyone to measure their actual panhard attachment bolts, front and rear. From solid, flat ground (like a smooth garage concrete floor or similar) to the center of the axle side bolt and also center of chassis side bolt, if that makes sense (pictures in this thread: Compiling/comparing lift and caster data, and since you have actual caster data, it would be awesome if you could add it to the list!). This gives the actual change in lift height from what we have been gathering info on. Would you be willing/able to do that and get back to me with the numbers? That would help with getting an accurate answer tremendously.

1. My personal rig is a 92, same springs (I think? They were from a junkyard), bumper, winch, dual batteries. Using some prototype 3" arms, I am just over 2* of caster

2. Thanks!

3. It's not much (about 1/2" on a 4" lift), but definitely makes a visible difference.

4. We try to make our stuff as easy and straightforward to install as possible!

5. See above

6. The most popular so far are the 4" arms. If you can get me the measurements mentioned above, I can get you an actual answer to that question! Keeping your stock arms as backup is a great idea.

7. Not clear on this one, so you didn't weld the plates but you did drill holes in the stock mounting brackets? Our arms mount in exactly the same way the stock ones do. Can you post some pics of what your axles look like? Should be able to install our arms without issue, but I can't really comment on the safety of the situation without know where any extra cutting/drilling is.

 

[Delta VS]

The Delta VS radius arms and rear panhard bracket have transformed the handling of my LX450. The suspension is a 75mm HD slinky setup and there was zero clearance issues with the rear bracket. I am very impressed with the engineering and thought put into Delta's products.
View attachment 1848415 View attachment 1848416 View attachment 1848417

Thanks @mryanangel!

 

[cody c]

The arms look good. I like how much beefier they look at the top end, the factory arms neck down a lot on the high side.

Have you thought about making a drop bracket from the high side to lower the pivot point, or making longer arms than factory to move the axle ahead slightly? Just a thought/question

 

[Delta VS]

1. The arms look good. I like how much beefier they look at the top end, the factory arms neck down a lot on the high side.

2a. Have you thought about making a drop bracket from the high side to lower the pivot point,
2b. or making longer arms than factory to move the axle ahead slightly? Just a thought/question

1. Thanks!

2a. We have (and continue to) thought about it, but decided to focus on the arms first since they keep clearance maximized.

2b. That’s one of the advantages of our arms, they keep the wheelbase same as stock at each of the lift heights (2” arms are about 1/4” longer, 4” arms about 1/2” longer, 6” arms about 3/4” longer), so yes, we have thought about that!

 

[Sharky1528]

Just picked up the Slinky 75mm HD Coils and really looking at the Delta Arms... anyone else have some real world reviews after they installed the Delta Arms ?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Just picked up the Slinky 75mm HD Coils and really looking at the Delta Arms... anyone else have some real world reviews after they installed the Delta Arms ?

I have slinky 75mm HD suspension on my LX450 with Delta radius arms and Delta Panhard bracket. What do you want to know?

 

[Sharky1528]

I have slinky 75mm HD suspension on my LX450 with Delta radius arms and Delta Panhard bracket. What do you want to know?

Did you get the 4 inch suspension Arms? How are they all flexed up any issues with the Tie Rods hitting ? Are you running an adjustable front Pan Hard Rod to center the front diff ?

I’m doing this on my 97 LX450 too....

 

[Dirty Koala]

Did you get the 4 inch suspension Arms? How are they all flexed up any issues with the Tie Rods hitting ? Are you running an adjustable front Pan Hard Rod to center the front diff ?

I’m doing this on my 97 LX450 too....

Yes I got the 4" arms. I have no flexing or bonding issues. I don't have an adjustable front panhard.

 

[Chrisw023]

installed mine the other night and still working on the vehicle so no real world tests flexing it out in the wild yet but doing a little flexing with a jack to test some stuff had zero issues with any contact. I will say the initial quality of the arms and care put into just even how delta packages them is amazing.

 

[baldilocks]

@Delta VS Are these arms designed to attain reasonable castor angle while keeping pinion angle such that a DC shaft is not necessary or ??????

I’m considering a pair of these arms for about a 5” lift in the front. Right now my castor is close to zero according to the one shop I took in to but my pinion angle is perfect for the dc shaft I’ve been running for four years.

I’m inbetween these arms and cutting my knuckle balls free and turning them to get the castor I want while maintaining my current pinion angle and sticking with the Toyota arms.

 

[Delta VS]

@Delta VS Are these arms designed to attain reasonable castor angle while keeping pinion angle such that a DC shaft is not necessary or ??????

I’m considering a pair of these arms for about a 5” lift in the front. Right now my castor is close to zero according to the one shop I took in to but my pinion angle is perfect for the dc shaft I’ve been running for four years.

I’m inbetween these arms and cutting my knuckle balls free and turning them to get the castor I want while maintaining my current pinion angle and sticking with the Toyota arms.

Pretty sure that if you are very happy with your pinion angle, your only option to adjust caster is going to be a cut and turn approach to caster, since those two things are about as “intimately” connected as can be. I wish our arms could fix both for you, but I don’t think that’s possible.

 

[Heckraiser]

@Delta VS Are these arms designed to attain reasonable castor angle while keeping pinion angle such that a DC shaft is not necessary or ??????

I’m considering a pair of these arms for about a 5” lift in the front. Right now my castor is close to zero according to the one shop I took in to but my pinion angle is perfect for the dc shaft I’ve been running for four years.

I’m inbetween these arms and cutting my knuckle balls free and turning them to get the castor I want while maintaining my current pinion angle and sticking with the Toyota arms.

You could use 3* offset trunnion bearings as an alternative to cut and turn. That would put you right in the middle of spec without moving your pinion.

 

[Delta VS]

You could use 3* offset trunnion bearings as an alternative to cut and turn. That would put you right in the middle of spec without moving your pinion.

What?!? These are a thing? Do you have a link?