CXRacing Performance Header. (2 Viewers)

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I would love to know how you would go about adding 50 ponies to the old girl. I'm all ears
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From a baselined motor; Intake, TB size increase, Port and Polish, legit Headers, designed exhaust, underdrive pullies, hot cams, ECU tune would get you near 50 and I feel pretty confident in that number.

If you dont make it off those then you could re stroke and or increase compression. Not saying it would be cheap or easy but it certainly isn't impossible.
 
Well thats great there guy, I just asked you what your intent was on your build. So based off of this you are searching for every advantage available for NA engines? This is just for DD drivability I am assuming? Have you tried under drive pulleys? A hotter cam grind?

I am still unsure of your actual intent. While you may get 6-10hp (you will probably actually lose torque despite what others have said this is the actuality) for a hefty price. So you loose a chunk of money up front for a mild gain (even if paired with other items) for just drivability?? Personally I wouldn't really care or know if I had 20 extra Hp at any given time, the truck is still slow and I work on enjoying the cruise rather than trying to rocket past everyone. But hey if you have 500 bucks burning a hole in your pocket then go for it, I'm just trying to understand your intent with your build.


SmokingRocks, the intent of the build is as I mentioned before is to gain as much of power form N/A engine as I possibly can but I don't want to change the cam or mess with pulleys all I want is to keep the engine as original and hopefully problem free as it was intended from the drawing board, I want to install some add on equipment that will help me achieve higher horsepower/torque and improve driving experience without sacrificing dependability. This truck is not a DD, I use it more as a Expedition vehicle for trips or camping etc. I understand that 20 HP might not be a lot to you but it's a good number to me and I will take it any day especially if it will not affect my MPG (Current MPG is 11 city 16.5 Highway). Thanks for the info SmokingRocks and hopefully I explained the intent of what I'm trying to accomplish.

Happy Halloween!!!

Mark.
 
Agreed, I was thinking the same thing when it comes to the carbed 80. But the price is sure attractive so I'm kinda stuck...I will call them tomorrow and see what they will tell me about them.
Thanks.

Called CXRacing today and found out that those are in deed made in China, they use 11Gauge staninless steel to build them (that's the part that I'm not sure about Chinese stainless steel), also as per tech support the HP gain is 18hp and that they sold many of them here in US and no one has complained about fitment of build quality yet (obviously we can't be sure about this). They are sending me a chart from the dyno and I will post it as soon as I get it.
 
One of our club members @Fantom had a very less than desirable dealing with CXR, but with a turbo. Less to mess up with headers of course but he mentioned their customer service was ....lacking.

Talk to a Tech support over an hour ago and no dyno charts yet, followed up with email but I think its quitting time in California so perhaps Monday...
 
bull****, 100% pure, uncut bull****.

We will never know what the scenario was during the dyno test, perhaps they only installed the header to gain HP and forgot to install the cat's or muffler... I did some research on other brands and 10-18hp seems to be number, again I'm not an expert so I'm just going by what I learned form the specs provided.
 
There has to be some kind of tune, whether it's electrical or mechanical.

Pulleys are you easy, cams are fairly easy too and don't sacrifice your reliability. If you don't do them all you're doing is freeing up one area bottlenecking another.

You can realistically expect to see you 5 to 10 hp gain. But you only know if you're dynoing before and after. You will only notice it in the "Seat of the pants" if it's 20 or more horsepower. I am speaking from experience here.

if you get them I am interested to hear how it turns out.
 
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There has to be an ECu tune, whether it is an actual standalone unit or an after tune.

Pulleys are you easy, cams are fairly easy too and don't sacrifice your reliability. If you don't do them all you're doing is freeing up one area bottlenecking another.

You can realistically expect to see you 5 to 10 hp gain. But you only know if you're dynoing before and after. You will only notice it in the "Seat of the pants" if it's 20 or more horsepower. I am speaking from experience here.

if you get them I am interested to hear how it turns out.


Thanks Smokingrocks, I understand what you are saying and appreciate your input. Lets look at it form a different prospective, Port and Polish head than Headers to 2.5" single Cat exhaust system...in my inexpert opinion I'm not bottle necking anything but helping or improving the original design. I used to own old 84 Toyota cressida with 5M-GE engine (great engine) that was my first car by the way, after adding Headers to the car form Supra I was amazed how much power they actually provided (I did not dyno test it but it was substantial HP gain) and it was a heavy car with only 172Hp, but before and after performance was amazing and that is one of the reasons why I'm thinking about installing headers on my 3 ton 80. I know the truck is heavy but I'm happy with the way it performs I just want to squeeze a bit more umph from the old girl. I will most likely get them once I receive dyno chart form them just to see what they are talking about. I will also post the chart once I get it.

Thanks Again!
 
I would love to know how you would go about adding 50 ponies to the old girl. I'm all ears
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As for the OP, yes I agree with LINUS's comment about cheap headers my experience with headers is that you get what you pay for and also for imports that gains are minimal (unless paired with a full system) because typically the initial design is pretty good (way better than many domestics). With that being said, I have once before tried to save $ because I found a good deal on some SS DC headers for one of my other cars. Well it turns out they were somehow (or maybe not) licenced to be sold as DC but were manufactured in China. Fitment was alright but I had to work the faces of the headers to eliminate exhaust leaks, to top it off I wouldn't use the word quality when describing some of the materials and workmanship.

Also (without knowing what kind of power you want IDK which way this affects you) 6-2-1 headers (stock design and what these appear to be) are designed to give better low to low mid range power (Torque) increases. 6-1 Headers will give you Horsepower increases at the mid high to high end of the rev range. I believe MAF made 6-1's for the 1fz-fe? So are you looking at trying to add more legs to the truck or more twist? And what are your plans after the headers?

The Port and polish is a great step (and yes I have heard that make a difference on most engines) but to get the most out of it and headers the flow design needs to be considered from the intake to the tailpipe. What I am saying is that if you open one area up for better breathing you move the bottleneck to a new spot ie; Intake, Intake manifold, Throttle Body, Cam's / valves, cat, muffler.

If you are seriously invested in getting every NA horse out of your engine we can dive even deeper into this train of thought. I'd be willing to bet we could find 50 or so horses and torques in the engine. More if you get extreme with the NA build
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Thanks for the info Buckru, All I have on the intake side is K&N filter, my intake manifold was cleaned and it's kept clean to the point that I would not be afraid to eat form it (by the way since EMS is out of business does any other company making decent intake pipes?), Safari snorkel will follow next. Once again I'm not trying to make this truck a rocket ship but just give it a bit more power without sacrificing reliability. I think with Port+Polish+header+Exhaust I will be close to 35-40 extra reliable hp since I feel a heck of a difference with what I have so far.
 
I am pretty familiar with the 1FZ OBDII motor.

Please tell me why there has to be a tune for bolt on headers and exhaust? Not sure how long you have been around Toyota ECU's but I do not know of a single one that has been cracked by tuners, not even the Supra and it has been target by tuners for 2 decades. The FRS does not count as it is a Subaru ECU.

The stock ECU already has adjustable fueling for modifications in the way of LTFT and STFT's. If you make any modifications that give the motor more air up to around 20% the fuel trims will adjust automatically to keep the narrow band O2's signal in the proper stoic range.

While I do not think that the headers will give the 18hp it isn't because the truck needs a tune, it is because MarkTLC has already removed restriction but adding the CAT back. We all know that modifications are not additive. But if the headers whether CXRacing or another flow better and he is looking to pick up hp there will be a benefit especially if he has a head that has been opened up and is already flowing more.

My concern is more about the quality of the headers. Are the flanges machined flat? If they are made in another country that uses carbs do they have EGR ports? 11g a stainless, what type, 316?




There has to be some kind of tune, whether it's electrical or mechanical.

Pulleys are you easy, cams are fairly easy too and don't sacrifice your reliability. If you don't do them all you're doing is freeing up one area bottlenecking another.

You can realistically expect to see you 5 to 10 hp gain. But you only know if you're dynoing before and after. You will only notice it in the "Seat of the pants" if it's 20 or more horsepower. I am speaking from experience here.

if you get them I am interested to hear how it turns out.
 
I am pretty familiar with the 1FZ OBDII motor.

Please tell me why there has to be a tune for bolt on headers and exhaust? Not sure how long you have been around Toyota ECU's but I do not know of a single one that has been cracked by tuners, not even the Supra and it has been target by tuners for 2 decades. The FRS does not count as it is a Subaru ECU.

The stock ECU already has adjustable fueling for modifications in the way of LTFT and STFT's. If you make any modifications that give the motor more air up to around 20% the fuel trims will adjust automatically to keep the narrow band O2's signal in the proper stoic range.

While I do not think that the headers will give the 18hp it isn't because the truck needs a tune, it is because MarkTLC has already removed restriction but adding the CAT back. We all know that modifications are not additive. But if the headers whether CXRacing or another flow better and he is looking to pick up hp there will be a benefit especially if he has a head that has been opened up and is already flowing more.

My concern is more about the quality of the headers. Are the flanges machined flat? If they are made in another country that uses carbs do they have EGR ports? 11g a stainless, what type, 316?


Scottryana, I'm not sure aobut the type of steel they are made out of. Hopefully they will send me the full spec sheet as requested. I did removed the restrictions actually my exhaust is manifold back if that makes any difference.

Thanks.
 
On a NA motor removing too much restriction can cause a loss of torque without some back pressure but if HP is what you are looking for.


Correct, I do have a single cat and a Magnaflow Muffler is that enough of a back pressure in your opinion? By the way Scottryana I checked out your builds and they are very impressive.
 
Scot,

There doesn't 'have' to be a tune. I've seen other cars respond very well to tunes or reflashes. For Hondas you can send your ECu in to Jet, tell them your list of mods and they develop a tune specific to the mods. Typically 10-20hp gains are seen, proven. A reflash / new tune can compliment physical mods very well.

I know toyota ECu's are notoriously hard to crack I was just wondering. Btw the tundra has been cracked by bulldog, 50-75+ hp gains with the supercharger and 10-20 with just bolt ons. So there you go. The stock tune is not always the best.
 
I didn't say the stock tune was the best, but there is no option for tunning the stock ECU. And piggybacks do not respond well with this ECU. The way this ecu responds the original prayer will be fine doing bolt ons. I ended up having to go to a standalone tune for my +280hp and +320ft/lbs. Lol
 

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