CXRacing Performance Header. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Threads
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353
Location
Mt Prospect, IL
All, I'm looking for a good set of headers for my 80, have anyone had any experience with this headers or CXRacing Co?. The price is great in my opinion, I almost pulled a trigger on EMS's Headers that ware $1500.00 back in the day and now I'm glad that I didn't. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Mark.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Pe...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a2e770cfb

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...=CXR&Product_Code=HD-1FZFE&Category_Code=LC80

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I don't know of anyone that is running it. It is kind of clear from the photo that they are not having their production done in the US, probably doesn't matter to you all that much but just kind of funny and stood out.

Ask them for closeups of the flanges and what thickness and metal type is being used.

The problem that seemed to turn around and bite EMS in the ass, is that it sounds like they took production offshore and the material they were told they were getting ended up not to be the case and now you have people that are having bad rust with "stainless" exhausts. CX Racing has been around for a while so might not be an issue, just some history.
 
What are you trying to build? you won't see mind blowing increases from any headers on the 1fz the stock ones are designed pretty well. I think its money better spent on other things.
 
I don't know of anyone that is running it. It is kind of clear from the photo that they are not having their production done in the US, probably doesn't matter to you all that much but just kind of funny and stood out.

Ask them for closeups of the flanges and what thickness and metal type is being used.

The problem that seemed to turn around and bite EMS in the ass, is that it sounds like they took production offshore and the material they were told they were getting ended up not to be the case and now you have people that are having bad rust with "stainless" exhausts. CX Racing has been around for a while so might not be an issue, just some history.


Thanks Scottryana, I will contact them directly and ask about production location and materials used. I'd like them to be made in U.S and if they are not than I will most likely pass on them. How about Doug Thorley Headers are those any good?, they are made in the U.S i think...
 
They clearly are not made in the US, you can see in the second picture they are mocked up on an 80 series with a carburetor. We never had a 1FZ that was carbed. Not the end of the world, like I said it was just interesting that they would choose that specific picture to showcase their product.
 
What are you trying to build? you won't see mind blowing increases from any headers on the 1fz the stock ones are designed pretty well. I think its money better spent on other things.

SmokingRocks, I'm just trying to get as much HP from N/A engine as I possibly can that's all, I understand that the horsepower gains are not going to be mind blowing but looking back on some of the things that I have done and the amount of noticeable power increase there was I will most definitely install good set of headers. After my HG took a dump 17K miles ago I sent the Head to local head shop for Porting and Polishing and that alone made a heck of a difference in the way the engine was behaving, than I installed the EMS Single Cat 2.5" exhaust system and that definitely helped and added more power to my truck so looking back on things that I have done the power gains are not high but little by little there is and will be noticeable power increase.
 
They clearly are not made in the US, you can see in the second picture they are mocked up on an 80 series with a carburetor. We never had a 1FZ that was carbed. Not the end of the world, like I said it was just interesting that they would choose that specific picture to showcase their product.


Agreed, I was thinking the same thing when it comes to the carbed 80. But the price is sure attractive so I'm kinda stuck...I will call them tomorrow and see what they will tell me about them.
Thanks.
 
i can see how it's going to be any better than the original tri Y setup. certainly not going to out live the oem setup.

I think it will be better, I had headers installed on my Cressida, T100 and there was a noticeable improvement. I will keep the oem parts so in the future I will be able to fall back on trusty but rusty tri Y.
 
I;ve got them on my truck, no huge issues. Butt dyne says I get a little more torque. The only little things i had to do was cut off the part that turns up after the resonator on the CXRacing piece and weld a flange onto the resonator. I eliminated the first cat and bolted directly to the second cat. If your truck is older you may need to do engine mounts, mine has 207k and was sagging a few millimeters where the pipes knock the frame by the actual flex pipe. Other than that, no issues in the last 2.5 years of abuse
 
I;ve got them on my truck, no huge issues. Butt dyne says I get a little more torque. The only little things i had to do was cut off the part that turns up after the resonator on the CXRacing piece and weld a flange onto the resonator. I eliminated the first cat and bolted directly to the second cat. If your truck is older you may need to do engine mounts, mine has 207k and was sagging a few millimeters where the pipes knock the frame by the actual flex pipe. Other than that, no issues in the last 2.5 years of abuse

If I decide to get them I will most likely only use the header alone without the Y pipe since I already have EMS y pipe going all the way to where the header would be, perhaps few modifications would be needed but no biggie have a friend with a good welding skills. Engine mounts are new did them last year, truck has 132K miles. Thanks for the info pnguyen!!!
 
I;ve got them on my truck, no huge issues. Butt dyne says I get a little more torque. The only little things i had to do was cut off the part that turns up after the resonator on the CXRacing piece and weld a flange onto the resonator. I eliminated the first cat and bolted directly to the second cat. If your truck is older you may need to do engine mounts, mine has 207k and was sagging a few millimeters where the pipes knock the frame by the actual flex pipe. Other than that, no issues in the last 2.5 years of abuse

Can you post a close up photo of the headers, I'd like to see them how they look after 2.5 years of use. Thanks in advance!
 
I wish the 8 buyers in the auction are members here - that would help.
For my part as a guy doing a supercharger & posted about modifing / coating the stock mani's (planned to build a new downpipe very close to OE style), this seems a valid thing to post -

: from my personal experience buying blatant Supersprint China made knockoffs ($250 vs $1300) - and these are from a better company according to Scotty - the cheapies never are a jig perfect fit so when my BMW swap motor headers needed bending, that was a issue raised by some on r3vlimited to call them junk.
Since we're a more nuts/bolts adept bunch, it would probably be a non-issue at that price.
The auction photo shows a good length before the merge, so it seems like torque would at least be kept vs stock, if not improved - and provisions were there for the O2 sensor.
I'd be very interested to read if you buy a detail of what tools it took to make a perfect fit, say if you had to bend a section, or flapwheel any imperfection to face flange, or backweld any (chinese headers are notorious for the bare min metal to seal).
A set of stage 8 bolts & this header seems interesting for sure - please let us know if you buy how pleased you are on the post-install beer!
 
I wish the 8 buyers in the auction are members here - that would help.
For my part as a guy doing a supercharger & posted about modifing / coating the stock mani's (planned to build a new downpipe very close to OE style), this seems a valid thing to post -

: from my personal experience buying blatant Supersprint China made knockoffs ($250 vs $1300) - and these are from a better company according to Scotty - the cheapies never are a jig perfect fit so when my BMW swap motor headers needed bending, that was a issue raised by some on r3vlimited to call them junk.
Since we're a more nuts/bolts adept bunch, it would probably be a non-issue at that price.
The auction photo shows a good length before the merge, so it seems like torque would at least be kept vs stock, if not improved - and provisions were there for the O2 sensor.
I'd be very interested to read if you buy a detail of what tools it took to make a perfect fit, say if you had to bend a section, or flapwheel any imperfection to face flange, or backweld any (chinese headers are notorious for the bare min metal to seal).
A set of stage 8 bolts & this header seems interesting for sure - please let us know if you buy how pleased you are on the post-install beer!

Linus thanks for the advise, I will definitely let you all know if I decide to buy and install them. I will call CXRacing tomorrow and find out about the origin of the product.
 
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SmokingRocks, I'm just trying to get as much HP from N/A engine as I possibly can that's all, I understand that the horsepower gains are not going to be mind blowing but looking back on some of the things that I have done and the amount of noticeable power increase there was I will most definitely install good set of headers. After my HG took a dump 17K miles ago I sent the Head to local head shop for Porting and Polishing and that alone made a heck of a difference in the way the engine was behaving, than I installed the EMS Single Cat 2.5" exhaust system and that definitely helped and added more power to my truck so looking back on things that I have done the power gains are not high but little by little there is and will be noticeable power increase.

Well thats great there guy, I just asked you what your intent was on your build. So based off of this you are searching for every advantage available for NA engines? This is just for DD drivability I am assuming? Have you tried under drive pulleys? A hotter cam grind?

I am still unsure of your actual intent. While you may get 6-10hp (you will probably actually lose torque despite what others have said this is the actuality) for a hefty price. So you loose a chunk of money up front for a mild gain (even if paired with other items) for just drivability?? Personally I wouldn't really care or know if I had 20 extra Hp at any given time, the truck is still slow and I work on enjoying the cruise rather than trying to rocket past everyone. But hey if you have 500 bucks burning a hole in your pocket then go for it, I'm just trying to understand your intent with your build.
 
SmokingRocks -
How about you show us a better solution?
Your opinion isn't helping unless you provide a valid alterative to Mark's end goal.

I'll listen to Mark as this thread topic is "more power" , not "happy with it as is" - if you don't try you really better like it as it came, the rest of us see ol' Mr. T even sold a couple superchargers to address this.
If this seems crazy, PM me.
 
LINUS-
I sure don't appreciate your attitude and it absolutely isn't furthering any kind of intellectual thought in this thread.

What you are failing to see is that I have been asking what the OP's goal / build intent is so I can better suit my response to it. I gave some options for adding NA power, but knowing why the OP wants more power (and more over what kind of power) out of his rig will help me and others figure out how to help him get it. If you don't know what kind of power or why he is pursuing this then you could suggest pairing items that don't compliment each other, this is far more critical when dealing with NA builds than FI builds. In this case it is not as simple as just "adding power" so knowing the design intent IS helpful in addressing topics like this.

Finally by suggesting this product or another you are doing a disservice to the OP because as I stated you don't know what he is after.

Feel free to PM me if you feel any of this is CrAZZZZyyyyYYy
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As for the OP, yes I agree with LINUS's comment about cheap headers my experience with headers is that you get what you pay for and also for imports that gains are minimal (unless paired with a full system) because typically the initial design is pretty good (way better than many domestics). With that being said, I have once before tried to save $ because I found a good deal on some SS DC headers for one of my other cars. Well it turns out they were somehow (or maybe not) licenced to be sold as DC but were manufactured in China. Fitment was alright but I had to work the faces of the headers to eliminate exhaust leaks, to top it off I wouldn't use the word quality when describing some of the materials and workmanship.

Also (without knowing what kind of power you want IDK which way this affects you) 6-2-1 headers (stock design and what these appear to be) are designed to give better low to low mid range power (Torque) increases. 6-1 Headers will give you Horsepower increases at the mid high to high end of the rev range. I believe MAF made 6-1's for the 1fz-fe? So are you looking at trying to add more legs to the truck or more twist? And what are your plans after the headers?

The Port and polish is a great step (and yes I have heard that make a difference on most engines) but to get the most out of it and headers the flow design needs to be considered from the intake to the tailpipe. What I am saying is that if you open one area up for better breathing you move the bottleneck to a new spot ie; Intake, Intake manifold, Throttle Body, Cam's / valves, cat, muffler.

If you are seriously invested in getting every NA horse out of your engine we can dive even deeper into this train of thought. I'd be willing to bet we could find 50 or so horses and torques in the engine. More if you get extreme with the NA build
 
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Compared to what some of us spend on our wagons, $500 is chump change. Given the head is ported and polished, I would think the motor could actually benefit from a decent header. If I were in the OP's shoes, I'd give it a try. If it doesn't work to your liking, sell it in the mud classifieds. I'm sure you can recoup at least a few hundred dollars.

Following SmokingRocks' line of thought, if you were to get a pair of RV cams for the motor, the header would absolutely shine, assuming it fit and didn't fall apart. But then, you're looking at as much money as a DIY turbo setup. But to each his own. I spent way more money chasing way less HP in my old honda racer by staying N/A, but I enjoyed it. Any money spent on hopping up a vehicle is money down the toilet anyway, so might as well do what you want. :)

I will also say that anyone specifically chasing HP in a land cruiser is either a web wheeler or doesn't know that his truck weighs 3 tons. A wide useable powerband will put a much larger smile on your face than 275 NA HP above 4k rpm :eek:

my $.02
 
I would love to know how you would go about adding 50 ponies to the old girl. I'm all ears
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As for the OP, yes I agree with LINUS's comment about cheap headers my experience with headers is that you get what you pay for and also for imports that gains are minimal (unless paired with a full system) because typically the initial design is pretty good (way better than many domestics). With that being said, I have once before tried to save $ because I found a good deal on some SS DC headers for one of my other cars. Well it turns out they were somehow (or maybe not) licenced to be sold as DC but were manufactured in China. Fitment was alright but I had to work the faces of the headers to eliminate exhaust leaks, to top it off I wouldn't use the word quality when describing some of the materials and workmanship.

Also (without knowing what kind of power you want IDK which way this affects you) 6-2-1 headers (stock design and what these appear to be) are designed to give better low to low mid range power (Torque) increases. 6-1 Headers will give you Horsepower increases at the mid high to high end of the rev range. I believe MAF made 6-1's for the 1fz-fe? So are you looking at trying to add more legs to the truck or more twist? And what are your plans after the headers?

The Port and polish is a great step (and yes I have heard that make a difference on most engines) but to get the most out of it and headers the flow design needs to be considered from the intake to the tailpipe. What I am saying is that if you open one area up for better breathing you move the bottleneck to a new spot ie; Intake, Intake manifold, Throttle Body, Cam's / valves, cat, muffler.

If you are seriously invested in getting every NA horse out of your engine we can dive even deeper into this train of thought. I'd be willing to bet we could find 50 or so horses and torques in the engine. More if you get extreme with the NA build[/QUOTE]
 

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