CV Boot Clamp Removal Question (1 Viewer)

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May 17, 2023
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Location
Denver, CO
I recently replaced the shocks and coils on my LC 100 (220k miles), and also raised the torsion bars a bit. After doing so, I just found that both sides of my CV boots are leaking between the axle and the boot - the clamps aren't tight enough at the angle they're at. Both are leaking through on the differential side, both at the small end of the boot. Thanks to this forum, I knew this was an issue to look out for, so I caught it right away.

My plan is to use the McMaster-Carr clamps that are recommended here, but I have a quick question that I haven't been able to find the answer to in this forum: What is the best way to remove the old clamps without damaging the boot? I've read that a few people just clamp the new ones over the existing clamps, but I imagine it would be better to take the old ones off, I just don't want to damage the boots in the process obviously. Any ideas or info from experience would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
In true mud fashion, I will overanalyze this.

I think the McMaster Clamp fastened OVER the OE clamp is best. The OE clamp really just needs a little more clamping force to seal the deal. I would say the OE clamp has more "uniform" clamping around the CV shaft. Feel free to disagree but notice there are slots for the screw clamp and the 3 layers of thicker material around the screw.

IMG_20110922_005153.jpg


The OE clamp has two layers, at most and I think the material is thinner.

IMG_20110923_032927.jpg


Also, take into account, the torque spec on the McMaster Carr hose clamp is 26.5 in-lbs. That's not a lot. I bet folks are cranking them down with a socket wrench. What happens when you over-torque the clamp? does it fail over time?

1to1and5eight.PNG


Used on it's own (not doubled up), a constant torque could have the best, uniform and constant clamping force. But it is very imbalanced. Would it make a difference? I dunno. One could install another clamp adjacent to it, in counter-balance, and clamping nothing.

shopping.jpeg


Counter arguments welcomed!
 
Mcmaster carr 4-4.75 (part #5574k25), 1-1 5/8 (part # 5574k16)

Those gave been working for years on both of my sleds but neither is lifted.
 
Thanks for the replies, and hoser, you took my over-analyzing to a whole new level, I like it! Thanks for all of that info.. I'll make a counterpoint of why I wasn't going to clamp over the existing one - the existing clamp has a bit of a "head" where it was originally tightened, so the outer portion of the clamp is not really circular due to that protruding "head." So putting a new clamp over it won't apply even pressure around it. Hope that makes sense.? I've got a few days until my clamps come, so I have time to over-analyze!

Here's my actual clamps, now I'm not sure they're OE since they're not that brown color, although I've owned it for 15 years.. You can see how they're folded over, and that creates the "head" thing that I'm talking about.. Just clamp over that? I do like the idea that if the new clamp somehow fails, it has the existing one as a backup still...

1701471422562.jpeg

More over-analyzing is welcome!
 
Long handled diagonal cutters make easy work of the old clamp. Stick a screw driver into the crimp and twist loose. Then cut.

Amazon product ASIN B07HBQ863F
Clamp over clamp doesn't sound preferable to me.
 
I have one

Thanks for the replies, and hoser, you took my over-analyzing to a whole new level, I like it! Thanks for all of that info.. I'll make a counterpoint of why I wasn't going to clamp over the existing one - the existing clamp has a bit of a "head" where it was originally tightened, so the outer portion of the clamp is not really circular due to that protruding "head." So putting a new clamp over it won't apply even pressure around it. Hope that makes sense.? I've got a few days until my clamps come, so I have time to over-analyze!

Here's my actual clamps, now I'm not sure they're OE since they're not that brown color, although I've owned it for 15 years.. You can see how they're folded over, and that creates the "head" thing that I'm talking about.. Just clamp over that? I do like the idea that if the new clamp somehow fails, it has the existing one as a backup still...

View attachment 3496343
More over-analyzing is welcome!
The first time I replaced the clamps, I did remove the original. The 2nd time (different CV) was right before a trip... pre-trip inspection revealed some leaking grease. In the interest of time, I just slapped it over the existing, positioning it counter-opposite of the existing clamp. My "best" method was slightly in jest. They both worked fine. But redundancy doesn't hurt! haha

However, the bulky, imbalanced clamp still bothers me. If this was a driveshaft, it would certainly make a difference. But the driveshaft turns 4-5 times faster than the CV axles. I think next time, I will try the Oetiker style ear clamps but will try to pre-tension them as much as possible before using the clamp tool. These are like the yellow OE clamps. Why the two sides have different clamps, I don't know.

 
Depending on the age of your boots, the leaking after Tbar adjustment is the first warning ahead of a tear- keep an eye on them if they’re OG.

Napa (or Dorman) CV axle clamps are the closest alternative to OEM that wont require removal of the cv axle to install. You can tension them with the proper tool. They are fractionally narrower but I’ve had good luck with them. FYI There is a very specific tension the FSM directs (gap).
1701608642871.jpeg


IMO - Worm gear clamps are not the best long term solution. It’s tricky to not over tension. Over tension = torn boot.
 
The small clamp inner boot. Almost always leak with time/use. It's very easy to remove, those small OEM clamps. Simply use a thin blade screw driver. Tap on the two tabs bent-over the band, one at a time. With just a light tap, they'll bend up just a tad. Then place screw driver under the bent up corner of tab and bend then up straight, releasing the band of clamp. Then snip the band, cutting it halve.

Boot leak PS.JPG

Boot Reclamp DS (3).JPG

Boot Reclamp DS (5).JPG
Boot Reclamp DS (7).JPG
Boot Reclamp DS (9).JPG
 
Thanks again for everybody's feedback, thanks 2001LC for all the pics, very helpful! I cut the old clamps off and put the new McMaster worm drive clamps on, and here are my thoughts after all of this..

It was an extremely simple job, I just over-analyzed it.. Like others said, just pry the wings apart with a small screwdriver, then get a diagonal cutter under the clamp and cut, just like 2001LC show. I had already bought the McMaster clamps ($32 with shipping for a ten pack), otherwise I probably would've gone with the Napa crimp ones, but I didn't know of them at the time. But either way, I think over-tightening would be a big issue and eventually cause ripped boots, either with crimps or worm drive. I don't think there's a good way to know how much to tighten. I wanted to use a torque wrench and let the forum know what a good foot pound torque recommendation would be, but it was definitely less than the minimum of my torque wrench, which is 10 ft lbs.

How I decided how much to tighten the clamps was pretty basic - I noticed that with the old clamps, you could could slightly twist the boot from the axle if you twisted pretty hard. So I took that as a base, and tried to match that. Then tightened just slightly more. That's it. Now I'm just keeping an eye on it, and will continue to check. So far, so good. I'll post an update if I have any issues for sure..
 
Hey @andrewz any chance you have any leftover clamps? I would love to buy a few. Just got the same thing on my lifted 2000. I am in WA, idk how much shipping would be for you to get a few up here. Was shipping really $15 from mcmaster?
 

I picked up these clamps when one of my CV's started leaking and kept it dry for over year till the boots needed replacing.
 
Hey @andrewz any chance you have any leftover clamps? I would love to buy a few. Just got the same thing on my lifted 2000. I am in WA, idk how much shipping would be for you to get a few up here. Was shipping really $15 from mcmaster?
Hey, @notgoodenough, I I just looked at my receipt for McMaster and it was $31.47 with shipping and tax (that's just for the small bands, I didn't do the big ones).. It looks like I might possibly end up using most of the clamps, so I don't think I'll have enough extra to send to you - I unfortunately found out last night that my other vehicle (a GX470) has a torn boot, so I may use them in that vehicle as well. if anything changes I'll let you know, I'm just trying to figure out the best option for that issue now..
 
In true mud fashion, I will overanalyze this.

I think the McMaster Clamp fastened OVER the OE clamp is best. The OE clamp really just needs a little more clamping force to seal the deal. I would say the OE clamp has more "uniform" clamping around the CV shaft. Feel free to disagree but notice there are slots for the screw clamp and the 3 layers of thicker material around the screw.

IMG_20110922_005153.jpg


The OE clamp has two layers, at most and I think the material is thinner.

IMG_20110923_032927.jpg


Also, take into account, the torque spec on the McMaster Carr hose clamp is 26.5 in-lbs. That's not a lot. I bet folks are cranking them down with a socket wrench. What happens when you over-torque the clamp? does it fail over time?

1to1and5eight.PNG


Used on it's own (not doubled up), a constant torque could have the best, uniform and constant clamping force. But it is very imbalanced. Would it make a difference? I dunno. One could install another clamp adjacent to it, in counter-balance, and clamping nothing.

View attachment 3495767

Counter arguments welcomed!
Over torquing these can eventually cause the boots to rip and fail. Ask me how I know. I went back to the fold over factory types due to ripping two inboard boots and ruining my weekend recently.
 

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