Ok unless you are at a load of 100% all the time this measuring is useless . There is no purpose in our application
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Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80 (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter PurpleFJ62
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Ok unless you are at a load of 100% all the time this measuring is useless . There is no purpose in our application
I have had several high pressure PS lines built using the OEM fittings. I just get everything set up how I need it (length, fitting orientation, etc.) and take it to the local hose shop and they crimp it all together.
I hope to use a cooler like this on my 80 in the near future. It'll be mounted on the front of the cross member where the current paperclip cooler is.
I hope to use a cooler like this on my 80 in the near future. It'll be mounted on the front of the cross member where the current paperclip cooler is.
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- Thread starter
- #323
I took my fittings into the local Parker Fitting Store and they said they could not help. Its gotta be Parker hose, parker fittings and parker crimp collars for them to do anything.
Well that's lame. I've always had mine done at Hose and Rubber, but I don't think they have a location very close to you. I suppose you could mark things up and send it to them? I'd bet you could find a hydraulic service shop near you that'd be willing to help you out though...
- Thread starter
- #325
I've got a solution that I think will work well. Take a male -6AN fitting and weld it to the high pressure line on the steering box. The Cummins is ready to accept a M16x1.5 banjo fitting, get one of these with a -6AN fitting in it. Then get some hydraulic hose and the right hose ends. Sounded good in my mind anyways...
- Thread starter
- #326
Not getting much done this weekend since I ruined a couple of my mandrel bends, so sticking to little boring detail work.
I hate leaving hoses free to rub on things in the engine bay, so I re-purposed a few Toyota swivel clamps that I saved for the 1FZ setup. Ofcourse the sizes were not correct but I tried to bridge the gap by adding heat shrink, electrical tape or little cut sections of rubber hose.
I was able to affix the vacuum line for the brakes as well as the main fuel supply line that goes to the fuel filter. Now they should not rub on anything unless i'm doing some crazy stuff in this thing.
With the crappy Axis Industries bracket there are no longer provisions to secure the wiring harness that goes down to the crank sensor and AC compressor. Here I took out the bolt that holds the heatshield on and welding a small M4 bolt, head to head. Now its both a bolt and a mounting stud for a p-clamp.
I am hoping that putting time into things like this now will save headaches down the road from melted wires.
Anyone out there got any leads for rubber boots that can be used for a turbo inlet. I wonder how well a stock part off of a 1HDT would fit with the cummins???
I hate leaving hoses free to rub on things in the engine bay, so I re-purposed a few Toyota swivel clamps that I saved for the 1FZ setup. Ofcourse the sizes were not correct but I tried to bridge the gap by adding heat shrink, electrical tape or little cut sections of rubber hose.
I was able to affix the vacuum line for the brakes as well as the main fuel supply line that goes to the fuel filter. Now they should not rub on anything unless i'm doing some crazy stuff in this thing.
With the crappy Axis Industries bracket there are no longer provisions to secure the wiring harness that goes down to the crank sensor and AC compressor. Here I took out the bolt that holds the heatshield on and welding a small M4 bolt, head to head. Now its both a bolt and a mounting stud for a p-clamp.
I am hoping that putting time into things like this now will save headaches down the road from melted wires.
Anyone out there got any leads for rubber boots that can be used for a turbo inlet. I wonder how well a stock part off of a 1HDT would fit with the cummins???
- Thread starter
- #327
Got a nice little part off of amazon a few days ago. Magnetic drain plug for the oil pan.
The magnet seems to work pretty well, it can actually stick to my fridge, more than I can say for my telescoping craftsman mechanic magnet.
Installed and ready for oil!
The magnet seems to work pretty well, it can actually stick to my fridge, more than I can say for my telescoping craftsman mechanic magnet.
Installed and ready for oil!
Can you clarify what you mean by this?
- Thread starter
- #329
Well I guess its time to show off some more progress. I was really motivated for some reason and banged out a lot of stuff over the last couple of evenings.
The charge pipes are done and waiting to be welded. Not sure if I feel like trying to weld these as if I mess up I will have to waste another half day remaking the pieces.
Here is the turbo to IC pipe taped up...
I got this off of amazon last winter, worth every penny. Now I can roll beads whenever I want without driving across town to the hot rod shop to have them do it for 20 per bead.
Here is the IC to intake pipe, this one was not so easy...
I also got some work done on the power steering plumbing. I threw up my hands and decided to use the A442F cooler as my PS cooler for the time being. The bracketry is very nice and the OEM toyota hardline thing that goes through the core support is top notch I just could not justify trying to redo it myself. If the need arises to run a smaller cooler than can be done in the future, or prehaps a thermostat can be added.
For the steering box discharge I took off the OEM rubber and used this 300 psi rated gates blue hose, its 3/8'' and fits a little tight but it looks great I think.
I left the rest of what I had available on the outlet of the cooler, when I get a PS reservoir I can figure out the routing somehow.
I also tried to make some progress on the oil cooler lines. I was not looking forward to this but it turned out to not be that bad. McMaster Carr sells 3 ft sections of 0.035 wall 5/8'' alum seamless tubing, really nice stuff. I will never use that crap from summit that comes in a coil again.
It was not too hard to avoid the splash pan and get them lined up reasonably well. If you were wondering what those 4 tapped holes in the front of the oil pan are for, you can probably guess now. I will make a bracket to secure the metal lines to the engine and keep them from vibrating. Them to span the gap to the chassis mounted filter either rubber or stainless braided hose, not sure which one will work better, i'm leaning rubber right now.
Anyone out there know the inlet diameter of the stock 1hdt turbocharger? I have been looking for solutions to my airbox to turbo inlet problem and I was thinking about trying the OEM toyota hose, I bet the location is really close to the hdj80 rigs. Anyone out there have suggestions? I dont really want a one piece molded part because it does not allow much flexibility. As can be seen in the lower right corner of the following diagram, there is a little removable pipe section that allows the length to be changed as needed.
Toyota put such a badass air filtration setup on these rigs!!
The charge pipes are done and waiting to be welded. Not sure if I feel like trying to weld these as if I mess up I will have to waste another half day remaking the pieces.
Here is the turbo to IC pipe taped up...
I got this off of amazon last winter, worth every penny. Now I can roll beads whenever I want without driving across town to the hot rod shop to have them do it for 20 per bead.
Here is the IC to intake pipe, this one was not so easy...
I also got some work done on the power steering plumbing. I threw up my hands and decided to use the A442F cooler as my PS cooler for the time being. The bracketry is very nice and the OEM toyota hardline thing that goes through the core support is top notch I just could not justify trying to redo it myself. If the need arises to run a smaller cooler than can be done in the future, or prehaps a thermostat can be added.
For the steering box discharge I took off the OEM rubber and used this 300 psi rated gates blue hose, its 3/8'' and fits a little tight but it looks great I think.
I left the rest of what I had available on the outlet of the cooler, when I get a PS reservoir I can figure out the routing somehow.
I also tried to make some progress on the oil cooler lines. I was not looking forward to this but it turned out to not be that bad. McMaster Carr sells 3 ft sections of 0.035 wall 5/8'' alum seamless tubing, really nice stuff. I will never use that crap from summit that comes in a coil again.
It was not too hard to avoid the splash pan and get them lined up reasonably well. If you were wondering what those 4 tapped holes in the front of the oil pan are for, you can probably guess now. I will make a bracket to secure the metal lines to the engine and keep them from vibrating. Them to span the gap to the chassis mounted filter either rubber or stainless braided hose, not sure which one will work better, i'm leaning rubber right now.
Anyone out there know the inlet diameter of the stock 1hdt turbocharger? I have been looking for solutions to my airbox to turbo inlet problem and I was thinking about trying the OEM toyota hose, I bet the location is really close to the hdj80 rigs. Anyone out there have suggestions? I dont really want a one piece molded part because it does not allow much flexibility. As can be seen in the lower right corner of the following diagram, there is a little removable pipe section that allows the length to be changed as needed.
Toyota put such a badass air filtration setup on these rigs!!
- Thread starter
- #330
Did a little welding tonight, got my intercooler pipes done up. I really need to practice welding aluminum, I am not happy with the quality.
Here is the post intercooler pipe, it turned out better. It was made from bends from Ace race parts and I spent a little more time getting the pieces to butt up with little to no gap.
Installed, it really snakes through the engine bay...
The post turbo pipe did not turn out as good, the welds are a little shakey, maybe a few beers would help with the jitters..
Here is the post intercooler pipe, it turned out better. It was made from bends from Ace race parts and I spent a little more time getting the pieces to butt up with little to no gap.
Installed, it really snakes through the engine bay...
The post turbo pipe did not turn out as good, the welds are a little shakey, maybe a few beers would help with the jitters..
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Were you running a purge gas into the pipe while welding it?
So unless it is like a choo choo train hauling 70 full cars of rocks or something you will never get a measurable load on a vehicle long enough to get that measurement, it does not apply to cars
- Thread starter
- #333
No back purge on this...
I must be missing something. I understand brake specific fuel consumption to be defined as the fuel consumption rate divided by shaft power produced. Thus, if your engine is running, then it is generating some amount of shaft power, and consuming some amount of fuel, regardless of load. I don't see how it would never apply. All power generation devices used for motive power, whether it be a 4-cycle gasoline engine, or a choo choo train engine, will have a brake specific fuel consumption surface. This surface is z-axis: BSFC, y-axis: power, and x-axis: RPM. A cross section in one direction gives you a BSFC curve vs RPM at a constant power level, and a cross section in another direction gives you a BSFC curve vs power at a constant RPM. I believe PurpleFJ62 slightly misspoke when he said BSFC curve, really he should have said BSFC surface; regardless of that specific thing he said, he was right, it always applies and it is a major criteria for design of an engine. Its also a handy tool for comparing different engines that could be potentially used in the same application, which is what PurpleFJ62 was implying.
For example, if you knew the BSFC surface of several engines that you are considering installing in a Land Cruiser, and you wanted to maximize fuel economy at 60 MPH on flat land, and knowing your gearing, drag, and rolling resistance, then you would be able to go to that BSFC surface and simply find the engine that has the lowest number given those inputs. In reality, it gets trickier choosing an engine because in the real world you'll be going up and down hills, up and down in speed, and not all engines have the same shaped surface. Basically you'll be traveling through many areas of that surface. It is then a more complex calculation to somehow average those BSFCs across a multitude of power and speed ranges. Some engines are very efficient at one point and fall off hard around that point, some engines are very flat and are fairly efficient everywhere. But not all engines are the same in this respect, some are very different than others.
- Thread starter
- #335
I see someone else on here has red Heywoods book on IC engines!!
Good call on the BSFC surface!
Good call on the BSFC surface!
JohnnyOshow22
KK0TEQ
I make a strong effort to get atleast one thing done every day on the cruiser. Today it's something very simple. I have completed the intake grid heater wiring by modifying the Cummins supplied 4AWG cables to fit better in my chassis.
I got a couple of crimp on copper lugs and went to town, took all of 20 minutes.
Here is the cable as supplied from cummins. A little too long as you can see...
A quick trim, new lug and red split loom gives the finished product.
The other cable from cummins has a built in fusible link. Same plan of attack as above...
Now it should be able to fire right up on the cold mornings. Still dont have any info about block heaters, should have built a port into my oil sump for one. Do they even do that? My 6bt has one but I believe it sticks into the cooling jacket, makes a hell of a difference in February.
There is a port for a block heater below the intake manifold. You remove a large allen head plug and the block heater goes directly in there and heats the coolant. I don't know the part number but the block heater is from cummins
I went off my google search, and shortened it in layman's terms to keep it simple, I never think that hard on my cruiser or any vehicle, I know my Cummins should do 20+ MPG, but I enjoy it so much that I get 18-20 and if I was shooting for fuel economy, I would not be driving a 5400# brick
- Thread starter
- #338
Progress has been slow for the last week or so. I got a little done on the power steering system and thats about it.
I modified the Toyota high pressure fitting that screws into the steering box. I know that if I can get it to a JIC -6 fitting then I can do a nice hose locally, dealing with these toyota fittings is absolutely impossible in the states. Nobody has the fittings, the hose is metric, blah blah...
Here is the finished product, cut off the end and welding a steel -6AN fitting in its place, AN is the same as JIC so nothing to worry about.
I have used this trick a few times in the past with the AN fittings, all you have to do is drill out the back side of the fitting to allow the toyota hardline to be inserted.
Then weld her up, I used a TIG on this. I dont think I could have done this with a MIG. The high pressure hardline is quite thick so you wont blow a hole in it if you can weld ok.
So now if I can find a -6AN M16 banjo fitting I can have this high pressure line made at any place that can do hydraulics. Getting close.
For the low pressure return I modified the stock fluid reservoir, what a horrible job. I thought it was just 4 spot welds. Lets just say I think the 1FZ reservoir is the strongest I have ever seen. I did some damage to it and i'm not happy about it.
Anyways for the return the -6AN hose which I have to too tight to slide onto the hardline that toyota uses, to the point where I could oil it up and really press it on but in the future it would be impossible to remove. I am all about serviceability so a different solution was needed.
I did the same thing with the bored out -6AN fitting but this time I brazed it on. The hardline is much thinner on the low pressure side, to the point where I could blow a hole in it even with my TIG. I have brazed a few things like this in the past when I put AN line on my 24 valve cummins, it works well in my opinion.
I like to make the hole a little right, that way when you heat the nut up it does not fall off...
Here is a picture when she is still red hot.
All done and installed with an Earls barb fitting and hose clamp.
I modified the Toyota high pressure fitting that screws into the steering box. I know that if I can get it to a JIC -6 fitting then I can do a nice hose locally, dealing with these toyota fittings is absolutely impossible in the states. Nobody has the fittings, the hose is metric, blah blah...
Here is the finished product, cut off the end and welding a steel -6AN fitting in its place, AN is the same as JIC so nothing to worry about.
I have used this trick a few times in the past with the AN fittings, all you have to do is drill out the back side of the fitting to allow the toyota hardline to be inserted.
Then weld her up, I used a TIG on this. I dont think I could have done this with a MIG. The high pressure hardline is quite thick so you wont blow a hole in it if you can weld ok.
So now if I can find a -6AN M16 banjo fitting I can have this high pressure line made at any place that can do hydraulics. Getting close.
For the low pressure return I modified the stock fluid reservoir, what a horrible job. I thought it was just 4 spot welds. Lets just say I think the 1FZ reservoir is the strongest I have ever seen. I did some damage to it and i'm not happy about it.
Anyways for the return the -6AN hose which I have to too tight to slide onto the hardline that toyota uses, to the point where I could oil it up and really press it on but in the future it would be impossible to remove. I am all about serviceability so a different solution was needed.
I did the same thing with the bored out -6AN fitting but this time I brazed it on. The hardline is much thinner on the low pressure side, to the point where I could blow a hole in it even with my TIG. I have brazed a few things like this in the past when I put AN line on my 24 valve cummins, it works well in my opinion.
I like to make the hole a little right, that way when you heat the nut up it does not fall off...
Here is a picture when she is still red hot.
All done and installed with an Earls barb fitting and hose clamp.
- Thread starter
- #339
I also tried to make some custom radiator hoses but the results were not so good. The finished product was so stiff that it would transmit all engine vibrations to the radiator inlet and outlet, this is simply not acceptable as it will fatigue the aluminum and cause cracks.
So i'm cooking up a design for a custom radiator hose that can be made out of silicone and allow for some freedom between the engine and radiator.
So i'm cooking up a design for a custom radiator hose that can be made out of silicone and allow for some freedom between the engine and radiator.
I'm curious why you went to the trouble of brazing the fitting to the low pressure line on the reservoir just to go and clamp the hose to a barb adapter anyways? Why not just clamp the hose directly to the unmodified reservoir?
