Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80 (5 Viewers)

[HDJdreams]

Ordered my 3.55’s via marks in Australia. We had 3 sets shipped at the same time. So at least 3 rigs running around with them.

Based on my experience with 3.73s in a Ram on 35s with the 5.9 Cummins (still turning too fast on freeway), I feel the 3.55s are absolutely essential to make a 5.9 swap into an 80 feasible. With 3.55s, A343F OD of .753 and 34.5” tires, 75 mph rpm would be an ideal 1950 rpm.

 

[cjmoon]

Agreed. My 4bt is happy. So is my buddies 6bt with the same equipment, 315 tires bumpers and what not.

 

[shocktower]

Ordered my 3.55’s via marks in Australia. We had 3 sets shipped at the same time. So at least 3 rigs running around with them.

I have found some there are some draw backs, that are easy to deal with

 

[shocktower]

Based on my experience with 3.73s in a Ram on 35s with the 5.9 Cummins (still turning too fast on freeway), I feel the 3.55s are absolutely essential to make a 5.9 swap into an 80 feasible. With 3.55s, A343F OD of .753 and 34.5” tires, 75 mph rpm would be an ideal 1950 rpm.

Yes, I have 35"s right now, and I am at 2100 @ 65/70, Mark's no longer carries/makes them I found another guy, but you need to use some of the 100 rear end parts due to the ring/crown is threaded where the 80 has through holes and they are in Oz

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Has anyone on here found a BSFC curve for the 6BT?
Might be helpful for this conversation...

 

[PurpleFJ62]

I guess I will show off a little of my chassis wiring now...

The wiring goes over the radiator...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 12, 2019

The wiring snakes around behind the coolant overflow container...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 12, 2019

Here is an overview of the battery area, nothing special here...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 12, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 12, 2019

 

[PurpleFJ62]

I will try to post a video here...



My R2.8 is still not connected to all of its sensors but I am at a point where I felt I should at least test some of my wiring. Here we see all my warning lights seem to work, also the center diff lock works when the T-case is put into low range.

As things progress I will try to take some better videos...

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Got a little more progress to show off today. Been hard at work on the oil pan pickup tube. Still waiting on a screen from mcmaster carr but I got most of the hard part done. I made two brackets to keep the pickup tube from moving around and vibrating...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Did a quick mock up in the oil pan..

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Then fully welded...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Here is the finished product, still need to make a custom gasket to seal her up for good.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Also took care of the remaining part of the heater core coolant circuit.
I designed a special part that replaced a crappy plastic cummins part that added a spot for the 1FZ coolant sensor, so at this point we should have a fully functioning gauge cluster.

The R2.8 has a provision for a sensor but it requires a sensor with its own grounding wire, the 1FZ sensor completes it circuit via the engine block and grounding strap...

I also put a new plastic connector on my wiring harness since mine was messed up. Its nice that many of the toyota sensor connectors are available on ebay and they are the same across many models.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

The blue hose is also from mcmaster carr, its really nice and not super expensive when compared to the stuff from summit and jegs. It is however a bit more than the stuff from your local auto parts store.

Stay tuned for more.

 

[White Stripe]

Got a little more progress to show off today. Been hard at work on the oil pan pickup tube. Still waiting on a screen from mcmaster carr but I got most of the hard part done. I made two brackets to keep the pickup tube from moving around and vibrating...

20190715_144814.jpg

• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Did a quick mock up in the oil pan..

20190715_133915.jpg

• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Then fully welded...

20190715_161800.jpg

• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Here is the finished product, still need to make a custom gasket to seal her up for good.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

How much space is their from the bottom edge of the pickup to the pan? Looks like its around 1/16" or so.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

How much space is their from the bottom edge of the pickup to the pan? Looks like its around 1/16" or so.

I tried to get 3/16 of an inch which is what my local engine nerd suggested.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Finally got the oil pan done and bolted in. This is a big milestone that is about 2.5 months in the making.

I spot welded a screen to the bottom of the trumpet looking thing, the squares are about 0.190 inch on each side, a little on the large side.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Welding the screen was hard. Its difficult to clamp it and still have room for the torch and filler rod. I settled on 0.040 tungsten and the welds still did not turn out that good. Also the screen is really hard to cut, tin snips dont really cut it. I had to use cutters on each strand, the little bit shoot off like bullets!

Next I made a custom gasket using two leather punches. I tried to cut by hand with a razor blade but I kept messing it up. These leather punches are great, nice round holes for a change.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

With that out of the way I could finally assemble for the last time. Never making another oil pan in my life...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

I am pretty happy with how this tuned out. The stiff support brackets are very necessary since the oil pick up is a bit heavy to just leave hanging off of the aluminum flange.

Now for the moment of truth, no more oil drips on the floor!!

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

My design made use of the factory dip stick, a pretty nice feature if I do say so myself.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 15, 2019

Glad thats out of the way, just one more crappy on my back job on the list and that is the oil lines to the remote mounted filer.

 

[White Stripe]

I tried to get 3/16 of an inch which is what my local engine nerd suggested.

I've never seen a mouth of the pickup that big at the bottom. The bigger the mouth I would think more chance for loosing suction. It might be nice to add some baffling too. But I'm not sure what your intended use for the rig is so it might not matter.

 

[shm21284]

I've never seen a mouth of the pickup that big at the bottom. The bigger the mouth I would think more chance for loosing suction. It might be nice to add some baffling too. But I'm not sure what your intended use for the rig is so it might not matter.

I believe the intent of the design is to reduce losses across the screen by increasing surface area and reducing flow separation at the inlet, while simultaneously moving the pickup closer to the bottom of the pan, which should reduce the likelihood that air gets sucked into the inlet. In an unregulated system, this design would improve oil flow rate, not hurt it. Of course, this oiling system is pressure regulated, so the maximum flow rate can not be increased by simply improving the system upstream of the pump; however, the pump will require less power to operate because this design reduces energy losses in the flow. There's a good chance this design will improve oil pressure (and thus oil flow rate) at low engine speeds, where the pressure regulator is not bypassing any flow.

 

[White Stripe]

I believe the intent of the design is to reduce losses across the screen by increasing surface area and reducing flow separation at the inlet, while simultaneously moving the pickup closer to the bottom of the pan, which should reduce the likelihood that air gets sucked into the inlet. In an unregulated system, this design would improve oil flow rate, not hurt it. Of course, this oiling system is pressure regulated, so the maximum flow rate can not be increased by simply improving the system upstream of the pump; however, the pump will require less power to operate because this design reduces energy losses in the flow. There's a good chance this design will improve oil pressure (and thus oil flow rate) at low engine speeds, where the pressure regulator is not bypassing any flow.

I understand those intentions of the design. But this engine is not for a generator bolted down in the floor of a building. My concern is with having such a big mouth with some of it near the rear of the pan. If the vehicle is at a downward slope the oil will slosh forward. At what angle does the mouth become exposed to air without any baffling, and with the mouth so close to the rear of the pan? The work itself is very clean and neat.

 

[Rollinns]

Could you please post a link to the blue McMaster Carr hose?
Great work BTW. Keep those updates coming!

 

[PurpleFJ62]

I guess we will see how the oil pick up works, if it sucks atleast you can remove the oil pan without lifting the engine up, cough ford and dodge!

The blue hose can be found here. You will love it!

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[PurpleFJ62]

I make a strong effort to get atleast one thing done every day on the cruiser. Today it's something very simple. I have completed the intake grid heater wiring by modifying the Cummins supplied 4AWG cables to fit better in my chassis.

I got a couple of crimp on copper lugs and went to town, took all of 20 minutes.

Here is the cable as supplied from cummins. A little too long as you can see...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 17, 2019

A quick trim, new lug and red split loom gives the finished product.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 17, 2019

The other cable from cummins has a built in fusible link. Same plan of attack as above...

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 17, 2019

Now it should be able to fire right up on the cold mornings. Still dont have any info about block heaters, should have built a port into my oil sump for one. Do they even do that? My 6bt has one but I believe it sticks into the cooling jacket, makes a hell of a difference in February.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

One thing I forgot, also installed my bumpstop spacers. If you recall back to my testing of bumpstops under extreme conditions it could be possible for axle to oil pan contact, even with my modified design. These spacers will prevent contact in all situations except when the bumpstops are completely destroyed, something that is unlikely to happen.

Here is an outer bumpstop spacer, I guess from now on its an RJ80.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 17, 2019

Here is an inner stop spacer, nothing too fancy.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 17, 2019

At least now there are less parts rolling around on the floor. One step closer to completion.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

I need some input on what other diesel swap guys have done for their power steering lines. The lower pressure side should not be a problem since -6AN hose will push on the fitting that is located on the steering box. I am more concerned with the high pressure side. I just went to my local parker fitting store and they could not help me with anything "automotive".

I cut the crimp collar off to remove the old hose. The toyota fitting is really nice and could be reused if a new crimp collar could be found.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 26, 2019

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 26, 2019

I wont know the hose routing until I finish the intercooler and radiator lines.

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• PurpleFJ62
• Jul 26, 2019

What kind of coolers are people using on their rigs?