Coolant leak from what appears to be center rear of motor.

[JS22STL]

Please allow me to share my experience with this issue on the 5.7's. I have a repair shop north of Atlanta that specializes in repairing and maintaining Toyota and Lexus vehicles.
I have found that the easiest way to find or verify this leak is to get under the vehicle and look up towards the engine from the transmission. It will start seeping down for sure. The Tundra I did yesterday had been leaking for some time. The cooler lines going to the transmission cooler that is on the pass side of the tranny had the crystalized coolant on them. The Toyota coolant is one of the few coolants that I have experienced that crystalizes like crazy. you literally have to chisel this stuff off sometimes.
I am a huge believer in the Toyota FIPG being part # 00295-00103. I use this for everything where a FIPG is needed with the only exception being that I use 00295-01281. This is more of a burnt orange color and takes much longer to set and dry versus the black. I have been resealing these 5.7's with the 00295-00103 for many years with zero comebacks. I do not think that this is the sealant Toyota is using when these engines are manufactured. It doesn't seem as strong and it is much easier to remove the old sealant versus what I use. I can soak the black sealant in gas and it doesn't break down at all. If gasoline isn't going to break it down then coolant sure won't.
The only thing I do different is that I torque the 8 bolts and 2 nuts down to 20 Ft Lbs. instead of 15 as the specs call for. Like I said, this is what works for me. I am not trying to step on any toes or be the Mr know it all, just passing along my experiences.
As another member stated above, Toyota really screwed the pooch on some of the cooling system parts which is unlike them when it comes to engine designs.
Thanks for allowing me to express my .02 cents!

Next time you have a 5.7 in, can you shoot a pic of that exact angle you recommend to identify the leak? Much appreciated .02!

 

[Toyo8696]

Here ya go. Again, this is looking from the ground up towards the engine.

 

[AndersN]

No tech to add but just an endorsement for @Toyo8696 if you’re looking for a mechanic in Atlanta/ North Ga. Great work and honest guy that will shoot you straight. He has kept the family fleet of 100 series (01’,03’& 06’) on the road for years now.

When I first brought the ‘s ‘01 to @Toyo8696, it was in rough shape to say the least. I picked it up less than a week later and we took a 4,000 mile road trip through Mexico. Never skipped a beat and hasn’t since.

Picking up my 83’ FJ43 in the morning. Guy knows Toyota’s and Landcruisers. If you’re looking for an engine swap to an oil change, Landy is your guy.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Just had mine fixed at the Toyota dealer. My Carmax Maxcare warranty covered the repair and the rental with just a $50 deductible. After the repair it threw a code for the SAIS so some part of that system was replaced as well. Need to check for more details on that. I’m at 99,830 miles in a 2013 LC. Hoping the radiator goes next before the warranty is up. I have until October 2023 or 125k miles.

 

[DiscoCam]

Please allow me to share my experience with this issue on the 5.7's. I have a repair shop north of Atlanta that specializes in repairing and maintaining Toyota and Lexus vehicles.
I have found that the easiest way to find or verify this leak is to get under the vehicle and look up towards the engine from the transmission. It will start seeping down for sure. The Tundra I did yesterday had been leaking for some time. The cooler lines going to the transmission cooler that is on the pass side of the tranny had the crystalized coolant on them. The Toyota coolant is one of the few coolants that I have experienced that crystalizes like crazy. you literally have to chisel this stuff off sometimes.
I am a huge believer in the Toyota FIPG being part # 00295-00103. I use this for everything where a FIPG is needed with the only exception being that I use 00295-01281. This is more of a burnt orange color and takes much longer to set and dry versus the black. I have been resealing these 5.7's with the 00295-00103 for many years with zero comebacks. I do not think that this is the sealant Toyota is using when these engines are manufactured. It doesn't seem as strong and it is much easier to remove the old sealant versus what I use. I can soak the black sealant in gas and it doesn't break down at all. If gasoline isn't going to break it down then coolant sure won't.
The only thing I do different is that I torque the 8 bolts and 2 nuts down to 20 Ft Lbs. instead of 15 as the specs call for. Like I said, this is what works for me. I am not trying to step on any toes or be the Mr know it all, just passing along my experiences.
As another member stated above, Toyota really screwed the pooch on some of the cooling system parts which is unlike them when it comes to engine designs.
Thanks for allowing me to express my .02 cents!

Thanks for the info. After a few months of mysterious coolant loss on my 2011 Sequoia, I am pretty sure this is the problem. Gonna check under the bellhousing in the morning.

Really is like the PHH on my 80. Looks like it's gonna be a lot of fun to reseal....

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I might be experiencing this coolant valley leak.

I noticed my coolant overflow reservoir was half way between the H & L mark's the other day.

Just yesterday, the coolant overflow was empty, the radiator was full. So I added some Toyota 50/50 Pink to the reservoir.

I'll have to crawl underneath today to look for the crystallized coolant.

In the meanwhile, do any of you know if this valley coolant leak is covered under CPO warranty?

The list of items under the engine section only has one item from the cooling system, the water pump.

However, it does list that all seal gaskets are covered.

Just wondering if the FIPG can be considered an actual gasket or if Toyota can claim that it's not covered as it's not a fabricated gasket.

Thanks

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I saw this post in another thread on the coolant leak topic. It shows this poster missing a gasket under the reservoir cap. Mine was missing this gasket perhaps this is my issue. Figured this might help someone in the future.

Coolant disappearing

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Check to make sure your reservoir cap has a gasket installed. Mine was missing.
New cap with gasket on the left.View attachment 2669680

 

[Acrad]

IMO: That should be covered under a CPO warranty if still in effect. A coolant pressure test would tell you if it is indeed the valley. Also look for any pink stains coming off the rear of the motor but the amount leaking now may be enough to evaporate. You may be able to snake a borescope in to look as well.

If it does end up being the coolant valley that is one of the newest model years I've seen reported.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

No signs of coolant leaks on the front, rear or top of motor. I have a scope to snake into the valley to see if there is any leak evidence.

I am hoping it was just an air bubble in the the system that purged.

I had it just below the F line then I let it idle for about 15minutes and the overflow reservoir rose to just above the F line.

Fingers crossed that the system was just low. No other signs of leaks, that are easily seen

 

[Acrad]

Did you recently change the coolant?

Air bleed should quickly resolve itself over the course of a few drive cycles. Perhaps really flat terrain would cause it to be a bit longer.

I just changed my coolant this weekend in my 460. Other than thermostat being open and front elevated by ramps it doesn't take much to air bleed the 1UR-FE which I can't imagine is really any different from the 3UR-FE on coolant level.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

No, I haven't changed any coolant.

I just bought it last week. It doesn't show any cooling system repairs in all of the Toyota service records. (Serviced every 5k).

The coolant is the only fluid that hasn't been changed. It has had all of the other fluids replaced in the last 15k miles or so

 

[Jeff Elliott]

I've been losing some coolant out of the bottle lately... Thanks to this thread, sent the borescope down under the intake and saw the dreaded pink sludge way back on the plate. Guess I will have the "right of passage" of making this repair!

Untitled by Jeff Nada, on Flickr

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I saw this post in another thread on the coolant leak topic. It shows this poster missing a gasket under the reservoir cap. Mine was missing this gasket perhaps this is my issue. Figured this might help someone in the future.

Coolant disappearing

forum.ih8mud.com

View attachment 2766326View attachment 2766327

No signs of coolant leaks on the front, rear or top of motor. I have a scope to snake into the valley to see if there is any leak evidence.

I am hoping it was just an air bubble in the the system that purged.

I had it just below the F line then I let it idle for about 15minutes and the overflow reservoir rose to just above the F line.

Fingers crossed that the system was just low. No other signs of leaks, that are easily seen

No, I haven't changed any coolant.

I just bought it last week. It doesn't show any cooling system repairs in all of the Toyota service records. (Serviced every 5k).

The coolant is the only fluid that hasn't been changed. It has had all of the other fluids replaced in the last 15k miles or so

I haven't had any more coolant losses since these original posts. It must have been an air bubble as I originally assumed.
I never got around to getting the coolant reservoir gasket either. I'll have to add that to my next parts order.

 

[Acrad]

Video of coolant valley leak repair on a '16+ LC

Same repair on a 2013 LC

 

[bemerritt]

No, I haven't changed any coolant.

I just bought it last week. It doesn't show any cooling system repairs in all of the Toyota service records. (Serviced every 5k).

The coolant is the only fluid that hasn't been changed. It has had all of the other fluids replaced in the last 15k miles or so

Any update on this by chance? My dealer just flushed my fluid (100k miles) and now a month late my level is at the empty line. Only noticed because I was working under the hood. No visible signs at first under the vehicle but I'll have to take a deeper look after this thread. Hoping it was air in the lines like you said.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Any update on this by chance? My dealer just flushed my fluid (100k miles) and now a month late my level is at the empty line. Only noticed because I was working under the hood. No visible signs at first under the vehicle but I'll have to take a deeper look after this thread. Hoping it was air in the lines like you said.

I haven't had any more coolant losses since these original posts. It must have been an air bubble as I originally assumed.
I never got around to getting the coolant reservoir gasket either. I'll have to add that to my next parts order.

I just added coolant and it stabilized at the F line after a few drives.

 

[2001LC]

I just did this service for the first time. PITA! Similar to the 4.7L starter R&R service, but with "much" less hand room at firewall ---MUCH LESS. Once again I found myself talking to the engineers, as if they where in the shop. I used words all not repeat here, loud enough they could hear me in Japan!

The first difficulty was releasing one of the two wire harness bracket on back of intake manifold. For some reason I could not easily catch the release with my finger of one of them. Just getting my skinny hand back there was difficult PITA. I need to make a long release tool, which may have saved me some aggravation.

The second issues are the two SAI SW's bolts securing tubes on back of valley. I found BK2 SW forward bolt, hit head only half way out of SW. I had removed the SW mounting bolts, and the SW assembly shift to the right. Make a difficult bolt, even more so. Even with mounting bolt in, bolt hit head before completely un-threaded.

Next difficult was get a nice bead of 1282B FIPG on block, in 3 minutes or less. Took me 3:30 plus 1 minute to get cover on. Total time form open of tube of FIPG to all bolts torqued in- 12 minutes.

Other than the back of engine stuff, job was fairly straight forward. The intake manifold was easier to and R&R, than the 4.7L. There's also less danger on dropping sand in intake ports, provided engine top side cleaned in advance.

If I every do the service again. I'm going to have the SAI tube exhaust side gaskets on-hand also. I'll see if releasing at exhaust side, may be easier. I'll also make a release tool for the harness brackets. Additionally a grommet for PCV separator.

My take on why this leak developers, which will very likely happen to every 5.7L. The cover plate is not rigid enough and to much distance between securing bolt. Perhaps if ~1/16" thicker, and had twice as many bolt used to secure it. It last the life of engine!. Additionally: such a longer length with FIPG 1282B, which has a very short application time. Is not a good idea. Moving that fast lends itself, to little or too much being applied.

Leak was only at front, but more developing around sides between bolt. All on lid side.

Prep: First plug intake and PCV holes, as soon as ope,. Then removing coolant and drying, and plug valley coolant holes. I use cabin fiber scaper, green scratch pad, 600 girt AL polishing brush and chemical cleaner (non residue).

Once ready I practice assembly, setting up lighting and all tools. I put FIPG on block, rather than cover. Cover would have been faster/easier to apply to. But I was concerned, I may rake FIPG on studs in block if I did. I used watery dish soap for O-ring, placing in cover. Has dish of soap water and other O-ring ready to go, after FIPG. Bolts, nuts, socket and Torque wrench set and ready.

Some may notice the front water bypass was not removed (no torque marking paint on nuts). I found on need to remove. Unless one want to replace the gaskets. Which this had them replaced ~15K miles ago.

 

[2001LC]

Here's the PCV ventilation separator gasket (grommet) I mentioned above. Worth while to at least have on-hand, during reseal of coolant heat exchange cover.
12273-38020 Gasket (PCV grommet) for ventilation pipe of separator case

 

[bloc]

Here's the PCV ventilation separator gasket (grommet) I mentioned above. Worth while to at least have on-hand, during reseal of coolant heat exchange cover.
12273-38020 Gasket (PCV grommet) for ventilation pipe of separator case
View attachment 3282754

The pattern of original RTV being thin around the bolts and thick between suggests the reason these are leaking is the cover flexing. Whether that’s from too much torque from the factory, or the cover being designed too thin is for an engineer to answer.

Also wanted to say your posts are great examples of high level care and attention to detail. New people can learn a lot of good practices from this stuff.

Edit: and as a data point I had my intake manifold off this week for some other work and got a good look at the area. Zero leakage on my 2013 LC with 185k miles. I’ve owned it since 105 and no evidence of prior leak fix in the service history.

 

[2001LC]

The pattern of original RTV being thin around the bolts and thick between suggests the reason these are leaking is the cover flexing. Whether that’s from too much torque from the factory, or the cover being designed too thin is for an engineer to answer.

Also wanted to say your posts are great examples of high level care and attention to detail. New people can learn a lot of good practices from this stuff.

Edit: and as a data point I had my intake manifold off this week for some other work and got a good look at the area. Zero leakage on my 2013 LC with 185k miles. I’ve owned it since 105 and no evidence of prior leak fix in the service history.

Very true, it is a question for the engineers to answer as to why. But it is also job (in Toyota the schools training manuals) for mechanic to always look for cause, and try to prevent from happening again. This is one IMHO, there nothing we can do to prevent. We can only delay by luck and proper PM.

Thank for the "high" mention.

The one I just did is supper well maintained 2008 LX (one of the cleanest I know of) with 120K. Leak was just beginning. Not even radiator badge cracked yet, but we did replace that as a PM this last week.

BTW: There is another subject off topic here. That dealing with the SAI SW during this service, made me ponder. It's the SAI filters in the pumps (blower). I don't know if anyone in the 200 series has done anything with them or any write ups on them. But it's a big deal. VERY BIG DEAL!

We've 3 option with the S. A. I system pumps (blowers):

1. R&R SAI pumps every so many years as a PM. How many years is very difficult call.
2. Install SAI block off kit. Not street legal, intended for off road use only.
3. Modify SAI pump removing internal filter and installing external easily replaceable filter.

Lexus gave this concern with filter validity, about a year ago. With the GX campaign (recall) replacing SAI pumps. Other Toyota owners have added external filters to SAI pump going back many years. They did so in all cases I read about, to stop SAI DTC issues. But the damage cause by this little filter in the SAI pump, when it decompose, is supper hard on ones wallet. These 2 cent filter can cause $3K to $20K damage.

In the 4.7L I was first I know to modify this. It's a much more difficult, due to SAI pump being under the intake manifold, than any other engine I know of. The 200 series pumps are in the fender well, so should be easy job.

Here the 4.7L mod I do. The damage can be more extensiveness in the 4.7L & 5.7L, than I talked about in the 100 series section:

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

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