bloc
SILVER Star
The studs have a star pattern on the end that is used to remove them. Find a set of “e-torx” or external/female torx sockets and they should turn right out.
Coolant leak from what appears to be center rear of motor.
- Thread starter Ali FJ80
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The studs have a star pattern on the end that is used to remove them. Find a set of “e-torx” or external/female torx sockets and they should turn right out.
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
That's just a union pipe.... you need 2 new o rings...
Nope it appears to have the same 2 studs that I have on the 5.7 and it shows them still in place with the plate removed. I'm just worried I'm gonna snap them off or damage the plate or pipe if I really apply force on trying to take it off so I'm hoping someone that has done the job chimes in. Thanks for the help
bloc
SILVER Star
Regular thread. When you reinstall don’t go crazy tightening them.. when the nut is tightened on top it holds the stud in.
Ah, I see them in the picture now. I asked over there how they got the plate off with the studs in place. We'll see what the answer is.
bloc
SILVER Star
This is just me, but I have a habit of screwing unique fasteners back into their spots during disassembly of subsequent steps to remember where they went. Possible they did that?
If not I’m curious as well.
If not I’m curious as well.
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
I thought you were asking about the union pipe... Not that it matters, but I have done the job on my 09 lx570.... Did you pick up the correct FIPG from toyota? It is not regular FIPG you get from local parts store... IIRC bottle of this stuff was like 80 bucks from toyota, expensive but if to u want to do the job right, it calls for this...good luck
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
A little bit of useful info torque specs etc on my thread too, here is a link
Bump
s*** can't be that great if it keeps causing leaks, right?
bloc
SILVER Star
There are a LOT of these that don’t leak.
And, It might still be better than other options in that application.
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
You have a point, but I can only imagine how quick it is going to leak again if you use the cheaper over the counter parts store s***.....Try it and report back..... another tip, if you already had the leak which you did, I almost guarantee you have coolant down the thread holes that coolant heat exchanger plate get bolted into... make sure you get all coolant out from these holes or when you go to install heat exchanger and bolt down all bolts, the coolant will come up and you will have to reseal the whole heat exchanger lid again....good luck...
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bloc
SILVER Star
I assume you removed the studs to get the plate out? Just in case I ever have to tackle this job.
Good luck getting it started.
Good luck getting it started.
Yep, removed studs and it came out easy. Sealed it up, no leaks. I'd be interested to know if you could leave the exhaust pipes on the check valves and push them far enough out of the way to remove the plate. Those bolts are such a pain, imo
I just flushed my coolant with Amsoil Long Life coolant. It is yellow, and blends with any other coolant. I think many people are too stuck on using OEM fluids. I think of this as sort of a Mil-Spec argument. Mil-Spec in this case being OEM. Sure, OEM will ensure you are matching manufacturer minimums, but it is a long shot from the best option in many cases. I have switched all fluids to Amsoil, with the exception of Power Steering fluid (which is Royal Purple Max ATF). No negatives thus far with 11k miles down, and the fluids are engineered and proven to be more durable and resistant to heat/shear loads. Take it for what it's worth, but I'm not putting Toyota Pink that is proven to covert to acid back into my truck, just because it's what the factory uses. Think about it, why are we so committed to using Toyota LL Pink when it has been confirmed that our water pumps develop leaks, and is highly suspected to be a coolant problem...
I have not experienced a leaking water pump yet (at 64,000 miles). My radiator is developing a hairline crack at the normal place, but has not extended beyond the sides of the "hump" yet. I plan on trying to make it to about 90k (which should be another 2-3 years) and doing both the water pump and radiator at the same time, along with another coolant flush.
I have not experienced a leaking water pump yet (at 64,000 miles). My radiator is developing a hairline crack at the normal place, but has not extended beyond the sides of the "hump" yet. I plan on trying to make it to about 90k (which should be another 2-3 years) and doing both the water pump and radiator at the same time, along with another coolant flush.
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Did a search for this leak. Bang on exact same problem. I just brought my LX to the dealer for the check valves, $900 in labour to replace check valve, they found the leak at the same time. So I guess I got lucky, they only charged me another $300 to seal it up and replace coolant. Bought checkvalve from Amazon so saved $400 there.
Total $2000 for checkvalve and coolant leak fix.... Starting to wonder, have I now fixed all the major issues?
Had the water pump replaced last year.
So maybe I'm good for awhile now. I'm at 100,000 miles.
Total $2000 for checkvalve and coolant leak fix.... Starting to wonder, have I now fixed all the major issues?
Had the water pump replaced last year.
So maybe I'm good for awhile now. I'm at 100,000 miles.
Spoke too soon, they had a problem with the Dorman part. So now I have to buy the Toyota Part for double the price and pay more labour for them to remove the Dorman Part. So $2500 now...
