What check valves? For the air injection system?
Coolant leak from what appears to be center rear of motor.
- Thread starter Ali FJ80
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What check valves? For the air injection system?
Yes. They said one of the pins were bent on my supplied part. Kind of sounds like BS, sounds like an easy fix... why did you jam the plug into a bent pin?
Turns out the pin wasn't bent at all, just something in the connector, all fixed. Only $1600... only. I emailed Lexus asking if they have good will for this fix because of the Tundra known issue. They are looking into it.
I thought about it, they couldn't guarantee it would work (depends on the ECU). I also figured it would be a PITA because if you use accessories and then start the vehicle it doesn't work.
Oh the memories.....Was fun resealing mine couple years back... I think I even made up a few new cuss words while trying to reach some nuts/bolts....
Lucky me, today I got P2445 Bank 1 secondary air pump off.
I just spend $2000+ getting the valves replaced. Looks like the pump has failed now. I ran techstream diags on it and it passed and the pump does work, so it must be intermittent.
I see they are about $130 on amazon, likely I can do this myself doesn't seem too bad.
I just spend $2000+ getting the valves replaced. Looks like the pump has failed now. I ran techstream diags on it and it passed and the pump does work, so it must be intermittent.
I see they are about $130 on amazon, likely I can do this myself doesn't seem too bad.
Hey folks, I too am victim to the old valley plate leak. I’m planning on doing this job myself. I was wondering what new gaskets I need. I know the valley plate itself uses a particular sealant, but what about intake manifold gaskets, and whatever other gaskets I may need? I’d like to order them all before taking the truck apart as it’s our daily driver and hope to tackle this over a weekend. Thanks in advance.
Anybody?
My dealer didn't charge me for any gaskets..... seems odd they said they used a sealant for the cooler, guess they didn't replace a gasket for the intake manifold which seems odd.
I found this thread extremely helpful when I did mine
To those who have had the coolant leak in this little valley -
Were you smelling coolant prior to discovering the leak?
It seems like you'd smell it like crazy, but I don't see that anybody has mentioned such a thing.
Were you smelling coolant prior to discovering the leak?
It seems like you'd smell it like crazy, but I don't see that anybody has mentioned such a thing.
I never smelled any coolant. I only found out about it as I was under the vehicle and happened to see a little bit of pink streaks on the skid plate. Thought they were left over from the water pump leak.
Does anyone know if one tube of the fipg would be enough or I should order two?
I am going to work on my LX570 tomorrow and ordered only 1 tube which seems like not enough. So before I disassemble the car I want to make sure I have the parts that I need.
I am going to work on my LX570 tomorrow and ordered only 1 tube which seems like not enough. So before I disassemble the car I want to make sure I have the parts that I need.
Make sure you ordered the 1282B gasket maker. One tube would probably do 3 to 5 repairs so you are fine.
I smelled it, that is what made me look into it.
Please allow me to share my experience with this issue on the 5.7's. I have a repair shop north of Atlanta that specializes in repairing and maintaining Toyota and Lexus vehicles.
I have found that the easiest way to find or verify this leak is to get under the vehicle and look up towards the engine from the transmission. It will start seeping down for sure. The Tundra I did yesterday had been leaking for some time. The cooler lines going to the transmission cooler that is on the pass side of the tranny had the crystalized coolant on them. The Toyota coolant is one of the few coolants that I have experienced that crystalizes like crazy. you literally have to chisel this stuff off sometimes.
I am a huge believer in the Toyota FIPG being part # 00295-00103. I use this for everything where a FIPG is needed with the only exception being that I use 00295-01281. This is more of a burnt orange color and takes much longer to set and dry versus the black. I have been resealing these 5.7's with the 00295-00103 for many years with zero comebacks. I do not think that this is the sealant Toyota is using when these engines are manufactured. It doesn't seem as strong and it is much easier to remove the old sealant versus what I use. I can soak the black sealant in gas and it doesn't break down at all. If gasoline isn't going to break it down then coolant sure won't.
The only thing I do different is that I torque the 8 bolts and 2 nuts down to 20 Ft Lbs. instead of 15 as the specs call for. Like I said, this is what works for me. I am not trying to step on any toes or be the Mr know it all, just passing along my experiences.
As another member stated above, Toyota really screwed the pooch on some of the cooling system parts which is unlike them when it comes to engine designs.
Thanks for allowing me to express my .02 cents!
I have found that the easiest way to find or verify this leak is to get under the vehicle and look up towards the engine from the transmission. It will start seeping down for sure. The Tundra I did yesterday had been leaking for some time. The cooler lines going to the transmission cooler that is on the pass side of the tranny had the crystalized coolant on them. The Toyota coolant is one of the few coolants that I have experienced that crystalizes like crazy. you literally have to chisel this stuff off sometimes.
I am a huge believer in the Toyota FIPG being part # 00295-00103. I use this for everything where a FIPG is needed with the only exception being that I use 00295-01281. This is more of a burnt orange color and takes much longer to set and dry versus the black. I have been resealing these 5.7's with the 00295-00103 for many years with zero comebacks. I do not think that this is the sealant Toyota is using when these engines are manufactured. It doesn't seem as strong and it is much easier to remove the old sealant versus what I use. I can soak the black sealant in gas and it doesn't break down at all. If gasoline isn't going to break it down then coolant sure won't.
The only thing I do different is that I torque the 8 bolts and 2 nuts down to 20 Ft Lbs. instead of 15 as the specs call for. Like I said, this is what works for me. I am not trying to step on any toes or be the Mr know it all, just passing along my experiences.
As another member stated above, Toyota really screwed the pooch on some of the cooling system parts which is unlike them when it comes to engine designs.
Thanks for allowing me to express my .02 cents!