Cooking With The Crockpot

[roadstr6]

Affirmative. As I understand it it was a well used but fairly solid engine. It holds oil pretty good and doesn't smoke too bad but it feels weak. I've never done a compression check on it. If this issue turns out to be the HG I won't replace the gasket. I will pull the engine and swap in the old engine from Dozer which is, I am told, a strong engine. It's sitting on a stand in my garage looking for a home.

 

[fj401978]

Great pictures, looks like you had a blast with your son! I'm sure he now has some super memories from the wheeling/camping trip! Glad ya got home safely, and good luck with the engine...I'm still putting my 2f back together after a blown head gasket. I kept taking things off, going further than I had originally anticipated. You know how it is..."While I'm this far, might as well redo this..."

I joined the ONSC last month, look forward to joining in some of the wheeling soon. I may get it going before Uwharie closes this winter, but may not...looking forward to a lot of wheeling next year, maybe I will be able to make this trip, too...looks like a great time!

Skip

 

[roadstr6]

I didn't have much time to mess with the Crockpot last night but I did do a few quick checks. I pulled the dipstick and it looks fine...no water in the oil that I can tell. I started the truck up and pulled the radiator cap to look for bubbles...nothing. I put the cap back on and dropped the vent tube in a cup of water and let it run for 30 minutes just idling in the driveway and occasionally revving the engine but no bubbles. It did not overheat sitting still. I'm starting to wonder if maybe the head gasket is okay? One thing that I did notice is that before this incident the coolant was bright red and now it is a muddy brown color. It's not greasy. It's more of a chalky brown and leaves a brown chalky residue in a white styrofoam cup. The boiling coolant may have loosened up debris in the system causing this discoloration...or could it be that exhaust is getting in the coolant through a break in the gasket at hotter temps and higher revs but not at idle? One more observation...at 60-65mph under light load there has always been some light pinging. If I mash the gas harder the pinging will stop. If I let off it will stop. I've never checked the timing on this engine but I suspect that it may be a tad too advanced. It is very possible that when it overheated it may have been pinging for a while and I didn't notice it. It is loud in the truck at 60 with the windows down and i was chatting away with my son and not paying much attention to engine sounds. I know spark knock will overheat things pretty quick. Maybe that was the issue. I'm going to take it out on a short trip and see what happens. Once again, new radiator,water pump, hoses, thermostat, tight belt, complete fan shroud, no leaks and this truck doesn't have a fan clutch so that rules that out. If anybody has any words of wisdom to share, please chime in!

 

[fj401978]

My head gasket blew at a water jacket, letting water into the cylinder, putting out a blanket of steam from the exhaust. It didn't get into the oil. Having had my head cleaned and surfaced, new water pump, new fan clutch, new radiator, all new hoses, new thermostat, cleaned out both front and rear heater cores...I'm wondering how to clean out the block. Looking in the jackets, there is a lot of rust and build up in there that I feel will contaminate all the new, cleaned equipment.

Kinda sounds like what's happened to your clean coolant and parts...ugh. No fan clutch?

 

[roadstr6]

No fan clutch that I can see. It's a plastic fan. It does not move independent of the engine. I reached around front and I can't feel anything that would resemble a fan clutch.

 

[JohnVee]

Just looked closer at some of the pics... What's the weight rating for a factory spare tire carrier? I'm gonna bet it's less than a 35" with 5g of fuel.

 

[roadstr6]

Carrier was attached using 5/8"X1" Med. Carbon Alloy Steel Grade 8 Bolts tested to Rockwell Hardness of C3 with 36,524 PSI tensile strength and 27,920 PSI shear strength. Just kidding! Yah. I was way over the limit. I don't make a habit of carrying that can of fuel. It was a trip-specific one-time thing. I guess I figured the strength of the carrier was greater than the strength I would need to push the truck out of the woods if I ran out of gas. It's back off the truck now. Truthfully, I'd wager that the 35" tire and wheel alone are heavier than the carrier was designed for. From what I understand though the later tube carriers are much stronger than the old square ones. I believe it. The one on my '70 40 was pretty flimsy.

 

[roadstr6]

So last night I did a little more investigation into my overheating situation. The damn truck runs too good for it to be a HG failure...I think. I checked the timing and it was way advanced. You couldn't see the BB in the window. Had to be at least 18-20 degrees btdc. I rolled it down to about 13 btdc. It sure does start easier now. I'm going to do a rad flush and take a few short drives at speed and see how it acts. I also want to do a compression check on it. Maybe this engine will live to 'wheel another day after all! We'll see...I'll post up when I have time to take it out for a drive.

 

[roadstr6]

Drove the CP to work today. HG is fine. False alarm. The truck is running good. Temp never got over the first hash on the gauge. I think knocking down the timing may have solved this issue. I need more windshield time to be able to say for sure. Right now it's doing great.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[roadstr6]

Whoops! Uh oh.... Guess what? I drove the CP to work again Tuesday and this time I pushed it a little harder. It got almost over to "H" in 15 minutes of driving at 60 mph. I took an exit and let it idle until it cooled down enough to get on back home. This engine is definitely hurt. It won't maintain temp at highway speed. Could it be possible that the HG has a very tiny leak that opens up most when the engine is cranking RPM's? I did a compression check: 140, 110, 140, 140, 120, 130. Check was done cold and dry with all plugs out. I'm thinking that #2 may be my leak, although #5 is not good either. What say the experts? Keep in mind I do have another engine that is a known good runner. I just have to put the head back on it, seal it up and swap it in. Should I bite the bullet and do the swap?


...via IH8MUD app

 

[krzyabncanuck]

I myself would swap them. But I would also open the bottom end of the newer one and check some bearings out to give you a good idea of any issues . Would also build the head unless it has just been done.

 

[roadstr6]

Darin,

I will definitely pull the pan and check a couple of main and rod bearings before I call it good. From what Ramon tells me the head is fresh and has been milled a bit for flatness and maybe a tiny bump in compression. Questions: does anybody sell a complete gasket/seal kit for a 2F or do I need to buy piece parts? By complete set I mean: head gasket, side cover gaskets, rear main seal, water pump and thermo gaskets, pan gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets, etc. Any particular brands of gaskets and seals I should stay away from? I assume OEM is the best. Any problem with re-using head bolts/studs on a 2F assuming they look okay? If it is a problem, what would you recommend that I use? OEM? Does ARP make anything for these old lumps?

 

[custyota]

The Crockpot is looking awesome Dave! I'm glad it went to a loving home and one with kids who apprecite it! Keep up the good work and I want a ride sometime.

 

[roadstr6]

I continue to drive the CP on short trips at slow speeds without issue but it overheats on the highway. Most of the cylinders check at 140 psi but #2 is at 110 psi. Exhaust gas check shows no exhaust in coolant but I think it's because I'm not getting it hot enough before I test it. Anybody got any ideas? No milkshake condition so I'm just gonna keep it on errand and grocery duty until I can find the time to start the engine swap. I sure would like to know what's going on though.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Overheating on the highway, but not around town would indicate either a bad radiator hose (collapsing during highway driving) a blocked radiator (externally or internally) or maybe an internally worn water pump. More or less, cooling system works, but not well enough to cool the motor at highway speeds.

What is this other test you've done? Checked for combustion gasses in the coolant and it came back negative? That is a good sign, meaning that under no condition are combustion gasses getting into the coolant. This specific test does not depend on the temp of the motor, as combustion gas remnants don't simply "disappear" after you shut the motor off.

Low PSI on one cylinder is bad, they're supposed to all be within 10% of eachother. However, low compression can be due to a large number of things, one of the easiest causes to correct being the valves. Have you adjusted the valves recently?

 

[roadstr6]

No. I haven't touched the valves. They very well could be out of spec. The rad, pump and hoses are newish. I think they were all new when the current engine was swapped in very few miles ago. Maybe 7-8K? Same with the thermostat. This truck does not have a fan clutch so rule that out.

I did the exhaust gas check with the bulb in the rad opening. No color change. Just to check I held it under the exhaust pipe and it turned colors then...so test equipment is not faulty. I think gases actually have to be present at time of this particular test. It's not like a litmus test. The test chemical never touches the coolant. This tester uses a turkey baster-type bulb over the rad to draw air from the cooling system up, bubbling through the special chemical. The instructions do say you may have to drive it hard and test if you think it may be a high pressure leak. I can do that but it's not easy dealing with a hot rad cap and the burn factor. I guess I'll man up and do it that way.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Just because components are "new", or "not that old", doesn't mean that they are working correctly. Fan clutch would have nothing to do with overheating on the highway.

Are you losing coolant or oil or is your only symptom this overheating issue?

 

[roadstr6]

Coolant and oil levels are good and don't change.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If your head gasket were going bad, you'd be losing oil or coolant, either through the tailpipe or mixing between each other. The compression number you listed is concerning, but I think it's a second problem, the first being that your cooling system is not working well enough to cool the motor at highway speeds.

Valve adjustment, then maybe a coolant flush with muratic acid and reassess?

 

[Usernametaken]

Checked for mud, sand and general detritus in the radiator fins?
My old '73 overheated when pushed hard and it turned out a few river crossings by the PO had caused silt to get stuck in the fins on the bottom half of the rad.
Used a hose and washed it out from each side and it ran wonderfully.