Cooking With The Crockpot

[roadstr6]

BEFORE:

AFTER:

The difference is HUGE! I am much happier with this new setup. I am going to have to extend my bump stops down 2" in the front and 3.5" in the rear. I plan to either fab up my own extensions or pick up a set of the killer ABS bump stops from Mark's Offroad.

 

[JohnnyC]

shackle angles are much better now.... good thing is when they start sagging more you can just add leafs back

love the honda and schwinn ... had schwinn almost the same... sissy bar was much taller (great for pulling friends)

super build !

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That is a drastic difference right there

Good work!!

 

[roadstr6]

I decided to fab up some bump stop extensions to keep rubber away from sheet metal. According to my measurements I need 2" up front and 3.5" out back. Mark at Mark's Off-road has the right idea with his extensions. They are made with an incorporated angle to better position the bump stop over the axle in a lifted application. I did my best to copy his design using some 2" flat stock and some 2" square tube I had laying around.

This shot shows the angle on the longer rear extensions. The fronts are flat.

 

[roadstr6]

Finished product:

 

[roadstr6]

Got a chance to test the bump stops yesterday. Cutting it a little close up front but I think it will be okay. Pics to follow...

 

[roadstr6]

Here's a couple more pics for pics sake:

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's beautiful. Quite the impressive job tuning those springs man

 

[roadstr6]

Thanks Johnny! I just posted this up on the clubs TWT thread as well. I'm pleased with the results.

 

[roadstr6]

With the Hurricane Creek camping trip coming up soon, I decided I would fab up a rear step to make it easier to reach items stored up on the roof rack as well as to help with access / egress into and out of the rear of the Crockpot. Here's what I came up with using scrap stuff I had laying around the shop. It's basically 2" square tube and a piece of 4" x 16" x 3/8" flat stock. It got late on me and I hurried the paint so it's not perfect but, hey, it's a step. I primed it and painted it with rattle can bed liner. I plan to stick down a strip of grip tape on the top of the step for surefootedness. That is a word, right?

View attachment 1103974 View attachment 1103975

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Just found this thread and LOVE IT!! Really nice work!! And your OCD nature seems to be paying off!! You are inspiring me to go do a little body work on mine.

But Im interested in your mirrors. When you have them mounted on the door, is that the standard factory arm or is it something else? Because I wanted to mount those mirrors on mine and get rid of my plastic ones. They are of course cracked and don't hold their position when you shut the door or drive over 45mph. It is a ball and socket design, but how did you get the backing plate over the ball of the arm??

 

[roadstr6]

I had to cut a slot out of the ring to slide it onto the arm. I'll take a pic tomorrow and show you. (go to sleep...wake up....go take a pic) Okay. It's tomorrow now and I have a pic for you.

 

[the gimpey one]

Love this thread. Just purchased my 1st 40. Chomping at the bit to get started on it. Your pics have given me lots of ideas!

 

[roadstr6]

Nathan (my son) and I took the Crockpot on another Hurricane Creek trip (NC, TN mountains) with the Olde North State Cruisers. What a fantastic experience! We did have a couple of mechanical issues but the 'pot got us home safe and sound. It ran a tad hot pulling the steep hills on the interstate. We removed the thermostat and that seemed to help some. We mainly just drove slow and babied it on the long pulls. After the day of wheeling on Saturday I noticed that my right rear wheel was hot and smelled of burnt friciton material. When we got back to camp, I pulled the wheel and drum to find that the friction material had come loose from the backing plates and was dragging inside the drum. We pulled out the friction material (it basiclly just fell out). Then we disabled the cylinder by cutting a thin piece of copper into a tiny circle, removing the hard line from the cylinder and inserting the copper in between the line and the threaded cup in the cylinder and tightening everything up. Great idea @Roxx! It worked great and allowed us to not have to smash the line closed to prevent the cylinder from working. Once we got to civilization, we installed a new set of shoes. The CP has a Ford 9" rear so finding brake pads was as simple as making a phone call to the local parts store. Anyway, here are some pics of our adventure:

 

[roadstr6]

Nathan and I slept in the 'cruiser. Yes, it's true! Here is proof that two people can actually sleep comfortably in an FJ40. Here's how we did it. I suspended two ENO hammocks from the full cage. The hammocks were too long so I tied knots in either end to shorten the length and tighten up the sag to a comfortable level. I am 5'10" and was able to straighten out and sleep comfortably with this setup.

I bought a roll of cheap nylon screen and cut it to fit inside the window frames of the doors and vent windows and attached the screen to the inside of the windows with magnets. Tah dah! No bugs and we could still roll the windows up and down and open and close the vents to regulate the temperature inside the cab.

 

[roadstr6]

More pics of our weekend adventure:

 

[roadstr6]

A little video of the Crockpot in action:

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

AHHH of course, makes perfect sense!! Should have thought of that myself. Ill be ordering new mirrors today for a little up grade.

 

[roadstr6]

I decided to do a little carb tuning on the Crockpot over the weekend. I was tuning by vacuum gauge and took a look down into the carb to see what kind of squirt I was getting from the accelerator pump when I noticed something strange...the secondary side of my carb was totally squeaky clean...just like it had never been used! Hmmm..... I did a little research and determined that the secondary function can be determined by loosely fitting a paper clip on the rod on the secondary diaphragm and butting it up against the diaphragm itself. Go for a spirited drive and if the paper clip is not moved down on the shaft, it is not operating. Well, that was definitely the case here. Non-working secondary. This little situation thrust me into an episode of OCD that pretty much consumed my whole weekend. Finally, i got it fixed. Here's how I did it: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/trollhole-carb-secondary-not-opening.876666/

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I decided to do a little carb tuning on the Crockpot over the weekend. I was tuning by vacuum gauge and took a look down into the carb to see what kind of squirt I was getting from the accelerator pump when I noticed something strange...the secondary side of my carb was totally squeaky clean...just like it had never been used! Hmmm..... I did a little research and determined that the secondary function can be determined by loosely fitting a paper clip on the rod on the secondary diaphragm and butting it up against the diaphragm itself. Go for a spirited drive and if the paper clip is not moved down on the shaft, it is not operating. Well, that was definitely the case here. Non-working secondary. This little situation thrust me into an episode of OCD that pretty much consumed my whole weekend. Finally, i got it fixed. Here's how I did it: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/trollhole-carb-secondary-not-opening.876666/

Excellent troubleshooting and write-up! Definitely going to remember that one