Cookie Cutter 5.3 Swap Into 62 (1 Viewer)

[Dubs2017]

Awesome thanks! Makes more sense now.

Are you planning on twin sticking the TC?

As much as I would like to eliminate the vacuum system, I had to draw the line somewhere. Sourcing the parts and kit would have added some significant cost. Any additional land cruiser budget is going towards long range tank, lockers, and an 80 series FF rear (not sure in which order).

 

[Dubs2017]

And sliders. Gotta get those added to the list as well.

 

[cruisermatt]

The vacuum system is twin stick functionality too already. Just leave the Low-range indicator switch unplugged. Then you can shift into low and it won't shift into 4wd automatically.

 

[Dubs2017]

The vacuum system is twin stick functionality too already. Just leave the Low-range indicator switch unplugged. Then you can shift into low and it won't shift into 4wd automatically.

Well that's clever. Good tip.

 

[Dubs2017]

Motor is in.

I removed the headers, AC compressor, and motor mounts (until it was through the front clip) and it slid right in. Not too many scratches in the new paint, thankfully.

I’ve got longer bolts holding the crossmember right now until I can get some spacers made.

 

[cruisermatt]

looks great. You should only need 1/4" or so. Aluminum would be perfectly fine and easy to drill.

 

[dbbowen]

damn that looks good

 

[cheeese]

Great to see a relatively 'simple' build that doesn't involve wild levels of custom fab, also valuable to show that even with pretty good deals on donor motor and trans you're still pushing $10k all in. That spreadsheet will be helpful for a lot of folks.

 

[Dubs2017]

Great to see a relatively 'simple' build that doesn't involve wild levels of custom fab, also valuable to show that even with pretty good deals on donor motor and trans you're still pushing $10k all in. That spreadsheet will be helpful for a lot of folks.

Glad it's helpful. And yeah I think once exhaust gets sorted out I'll be right around $10. Certainly a few 'nice to haves' on my list, and a few items that I should probably remove since they are not technically part of the "swap."

And some of the big ticket items could have been saved on. For example I could have pulled a junk yard motor myself, and stripped down the GM harness instead of buying a PSI, which would have probably saved ~$1500.

There's folks here who can probably pull this job off for under $5k, but I am not one of them.

 

[Dubs2017]

Couple of quick updates.

Got the heater hoses run exactly how @dbbowen showed in his thread by going under/through the hard fuel line. I've got one of the snazzy heat shrink hose clamps on order for the reducer. Had never seen those. Pretty cool but pricey little item.

I decided to bend my rear heat return pipe a bit since it was running straight into the valve cover.

Both shifter linkages hooked up. Transfercase pivot bracket from Cruiser Matt.

Engagement for shifts feels ok and seems like it lines up quite well with the 62 indicators. I replaced all the bushings a few years ago, but the pivot and handle interface is still wobbly and needs some help. I'll probably weld them together like I saw someone do here.

 

[Dubs2017]

1/4” spacers did the trick. Thanks Matt. A bit tight on the t-case shifter. I’ll drop it and try to massage the floor with a hammer.

Also dremel’d my shift gate where the pin wasn’t engaging. Took 1/16 or 3/32 off of the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st “bumps” and everything feels good. Also globbed a weld onto the pivot like @Spook50 demonstrated so many years ago. There is still some slight slop in the side going through the floor, but I’ve got bigger fish to fry right now.

 

[Dubs2017]

Much better rear heater return routing with the bend. Hope it didn’t crack.

 

[BurntToast]

Got the firewall and fenders painted, along with POR15 and top coat applied to the frame and diff.

View attachment 3143514

View attachment 3143515

Took the opportunity to rebuild an 80 series PS box to upgrade to.
View attachment 3143518

View attachment 3143517

View attachment 3143519

Hate to bring up an old post, but any chance you could elaborate on your cleanup, prep, and paint process and products? I think my next step is around this

 

[Dubs2017]

Hate to bring up an old post, but any chance you could elaborate on your cleanup, prep, and paint process and products? I think my next step is around this

Yeah no worries.

I plugged all ports/lines/openings, bagged and taped all the wiring and stuffed it into the fenders, then hit it with a pressure washer. That only took the big chunks off, so I used scrubbers and a bucket of dawn dish soap and scrubbed the inner fenders and firewall. The frame rails and front diff were coated in decades of oil, so I used oven cleaner on those. That made the biggest difference in the process. I'm sure that stuff is terrible, but it definitely works.

I tried a variety of degreasers, and none of them did much to cut it other than the oven cleaner. Careful on anything aluminum though.

After everything dried, I used rust dissolver on the inevitable passenger inner fender where the a battery leaked along the way before
i owned the truck.

Then I hit all painted surfaces with a quick scrub (320 grit I think) and after wiping with tac cloth sprayed it with white primer and duplicolor color match paint which is not even close to a match, unfortunately. It was BTY1578. It's not terrible, but I certainly wouldn't do any exterior touch ups with it.

For the frame (after welding the new motor mounts on), I used POR15 brush-on in the chassis black color. It is a 3 stage process with cleaner/degreaser, metal prep, and the actual paint. The POR15 is "UV sensitive," so I then top coated it with a can of their spray top coat. Like @c2dfj45 mentions in his thread, it is great paint and goes on really well for a rattle can. I also used it on my cross member, steering linkage, front diff, shifter linkage, and PS box after I rebuilt it. I ran out, but am trying to find another can for remaining misc parts like my air box and brackets. Seems to be sold out everywhere right now.

After the por15 and top coat dried I tapped all of the threaded holes and captured nuts, and started reassembly on the firewall and frame rails.

I think that's it. It took me a couple of days, but definitely worth it. Hope this helps.

Inner fender rust dissolver before and after:

 

[BurntToast]

Yeah no worries.

I plugged all ports/lines/openings, bagged and taped all the wiring and stuffed it into the fenders, then hit it with a pressure washer. That only took the big chunks off, so I used scrubbers and a bucket of dawn dish soap and scrubbed the inner fenders and firewall. The frame rails and front diff were coated in decades of oil, so I used oven cleaner on those. That made the biggest difference in the process. I'm sure that stuff is terrible, but it definitely works.

I tried a variety of degreasers, and none of them did much to cut it other than the oven cleaner. Careful on anything aluminum though.

After everything dried, I used rust dissolver on the inevitable passenger inner fender where the a battery leaked along the way before
i owned the truck.

Then I hit all painted surfaces with a quick scrub (320 grit I think) and after wiping with tac cloth sprayed it with white primer and duplicolor color match paint which is not even close to a match, unfortunately. It was BTY1578. It's not terrible, but I certainly wouldn't do any exterior touch ups with it.

For the frame (after welding the new motor mounts on), I used POR15 brush-on in the chassis black color. It is a 3 stage process with cleaner/degreaser, metal prep, and the actual paint. The POR15 is "UV sensitive," so I then top coated it with a can of their spray top coat. Like @c2dfj45 mentions in his thread, it is great paint and goes on really well for a rattle can. I also used it on my cross member, steering linkage, front diff, shifter linkage, and PS box after I rebuilt it. I ran out, but am trying to find another can for remaining misc parts like my air box and brackets. Seems to be sold out everywhere right now.

After the por15 and top coat dried I tapped all of the threaded holes and captured nuts, and started reassembly on the firewall and frame rails.

I think that's it. It took me a couple of days, but definitely worth it. Hope this helps.

Inner fender rust dissolver before and after:
View attachment 3172195

View attachment 3172196

Thank you for the comprehensive answer! Sounds like I need to spend some time doing cleanup and elbow grease prep. Thanks!

 

[Dubs2017]

Thank you for the comprehensive answer! Sounds like I need to spend some time doing cleanup and elbow grease prep. Thanks!

Of course. Happy to help.

 

[Dubs2017]

Picking away at it and checking some things off the list.

Got the PS lines hooked up. I bent the low pressure hard line on the pump up a bit, like @cruisermatt mentioned in another thread. Routing is much better that way.

Also bent my floor up a hair to accommodate the high/low shifter.

Got the fancy hose clamp installed on the heater hose, and fuel lines finished up and routed.

And started stripping down the Toyota engine harness to eliminate as much as possible.

 

[adman02]

Looking really good. A couple of questions about your build.

What harness did you end up going with?

What vacuum source are you using for the xfer case?

Are you using the corvette fuel return? If so, did you have to do any mods to the engine fuel rail?

 

[Dubs2017]

Looking really good. A couple of questions about your build.

What harness did you end up going with?

What vacuum source are you using for the xfer case?

Are you using the corvette fuel return? If so, did you have to do any mods to the engine fuel rail?

Thanks. Getting there. Slowly.

I went with PSI for the harness. I needed to source MAF, 02 sensors, computer flash, etc so it came out a bit cheaper. Wish I had a relationship with a tuner locally that could remove VATS and put a base tune on, but without one PSI seemed the best deal. There is a tab in my budget doc with a comparison of PSI, BP, and Painless incase it is helpful.

Re 4wd vacuum - I poked around and found that there is a tab on the passenger side of the intake that can be broken off for an additional vacuum port. Check out this video for a better look. I also found this video, describing adding a barb fitting. I also looked through BAT auction pictures, and saw a variety of methods. For example, this person and this person tee'd into the brake booster line. I just tried the first method, but if anyone has any input here I am wide open to recommendations.

You can also run one of these, I guess: ICT Billet Distribution Block

And for fuel, I have a geniii so regulator is built into the rail. My plan after chatting with Matt is to run the stock 62 pump and lines. I cut the return line off on the frame rail and put this 1/4" ferule to -6an fitting on it. Then ran an line up to the return on the rail from there.

You can kind of see it in this pic. Lot's going on down there...

And here is the 4wd vacuum line run to the intake port. In the fuel line picture in my previous post you can see what it looked like before I broke the tab off.

 

[Dubs2017]

I picked up @Fourrunner 's battery cables a few days ago so I can start running grounds and routing the starter wire. These things are quite beefy.

I also ordered both fan shroud kits from Summit that were close in size and am not happy with either. Both would require enough modifying that I'd rather just modify something that will end up closer to correct. I've got a metal shop building me a box, and will see how clean of a circle I can cut in it with my jig saw.

This is SUM-380308-SH - Too small.

And this is SUM-380457-SH - Too big. It could be trimmed on the top and bottom to fit, but it is too wide unfortunately. I see it posted in the 80 section quite a bit, so maybe it works better for those rigs. I missed the return window on this, so let me know if anyone wants it for a deal.