Where is this ATF heat degradation reset: you speak of ?
Complete Transmission Flush DIY - VIDEO
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Where is this ATF heat degradation reset: you speak of ?
Yeah, I’m intrigued! Never heard of this either
Interesting. Is the computer somehow tracking temperature variations and heat cylces to calculate this? Or is this more like an Oil change monitoring system which more based on miles driven?
You know i believe its an estimate monitoring systm but probably considers more than just miles.
I cant be sure obviously but if it were miles only logic would conclude it would be linearly correlated.
Mine was 500 at 62k. Post your numbers so we can understand more!
I did a 12 quart swap to Amsoil about 7k miles ago so I am not sure how that will play into this . I guess I should have reset the system..?
I dont think it would hurt anything not to do it but you could probably restore some form of shift point timing its doing by reseting.
Im completely guessing though as to what it actually does. I did not notice much personally but i was nowhere near that 50,000 mark the manual warns of.
There are some very knowledgeable people here who could surely comment on what happens as ATF degrades (viscosity, fluid dynamics, impact to friction coefficient, whatever else) that would enlighten us without having to do a month of research.
So I will give this perspective, if it means anything at all. I had a 2010 Tundra. Maintained it per the book. I called 3 different dealers and all shop managers told me not to touch the ATF…ever. So I left it alone. Finally at 250k I swapped out the fluid as I couldnt stand it anymore. No difference in shifting. The fluid was obviously dark but the transmission was shifting perfectly and acting normally prior to the fluid swap. Maybe Toyota engineers really know what they are talking about,
Well, I'll probably be flamed and ridiculed for this here for going against Toyota but not changing ATF is hogwash.
These are the same people who advise oil changed every 10k after all. Its not always an engineering issue.
The degradation timer/counter is probably there to increase service life by managing the shifting etc through known and tested ATF life spans and whatever cooked fluids do to that and the internals. Im sure they are doing a bang up engineering job of that and i don't expect the trans to blow up if you don't replace fluid but what i do know is that it wont hurt unless you are way out there, and even in that instance, the ability to "reset" the state of the fluid to the computer should fix the issues a late fluid change would induce.
Otherwise, when you rebuild it or swap it for actual failures, you would probably need to replace the ECT board too right? If it is indeed computer controlled and adjusted for.
No prob brother. I had not seen it anywhere here myself and stumbled upon it while learning about the 8 speed and came up with my own "tricks" for the flush.
While this reset applies to both 6 and 8 spd, there are some key differences in flushing / filling / leveling that are downright cumbersome to say the least.
When i performed my check level for example, i lost 2 quarts out of what i had replaced like for like. It didn't make any sense at all and my shifts were delayed. I suspect i may have not tightened the plastic down spout in the pan tube properly but then again, im pretty scientific with how i do things and i dont really believe that was it. I measured the distance installed when removing it for science and it was identical when i tightened it more on the reinstall. I had my truck damn near leveled at the frame when i did the check level procedure and everything, but im not even sure that still needs to be done since the pan itself is at a pretty odd angle to the frame towards the drain spout to the rear. Leveling at the drain pan would seem like the way to go but would also be super weird requiring lifting only at the rear. Im just not sure where i went wrong other than that POS plastic tube. It is built in to the older pans with dedicated drain plugs. This one is combined and i think it may have been done that way to be able to fit different height tubes for different model fluid levels in the same pan. I could not tell you why they chose plastic though, that part doesn't seem very clever to me.
For the sake of not having to disassembly things again, the second fill i did was to factory spec 2.9 quarts with a full pan drain.
Everything has been perfect since then. Super smooth shifts, zero kick, fuel economy better than ever.
just because I geek out on anything lubrication and filter based, I started to send my oil off for analysis just to see what this looked like on my various engines. I have 2 5.7s, 2 4.7s And 1 3.5 all Toyota. These engine seem to be very easy on oil. I tested each engine at 5k, 7.5k, and 10k. They all came back low metals and continue to use further, even at 10k miles. Amazing.
The reason I bring this up is that I think the way Toyota engineers their engines seem to be easier on oil and dont sheer the oil nor contaminate it with fuel as much as other manufacturers. I used regular oil and synthetic on the same engine with the same driver over the same periods…no difference at all in wear metals at any of the above intervals. That was a real eye opener.
When I talk to transmission shops and mechanics the least problematic transmissions seem to be Toyota’s as well.
I should have sent my ATF in to be analyzed but totally forgot, I think this is the only way to really know how well it holds up under extended use and how often we should really be changing the fluid. Maybe every 30k, maybe every 200k. For me moving forward I have decided on 75k intervals.
I do not, but if anyone would there’s a company out of Australia that might…Terrain Tamer.
I followed the video (thanks for posting!) and corresponding FSM pages and jumped the two pins on the OBD port. When I got the D to illuminate, I went under the car and opened the overflow plug. Quite a bit of fluid came out and then it started to come out slower. I got out from under the car to get a new crush washer and I noticed the D was flashing on the multifunction display, which indicates that the temp is too hot for the temp check. So I put thew new washer on and tightened up the overflow plug but some fluid was still coming out. Do I need to wait until the car cools down again and do the overflow check again, or am I OK?
Double check - better safe than sorry IMO. Let the truck cool overnight and repeat the warming/level check procedure.
I let it sit for ~1hour or so and was able to get under it and open up the overflow and it was trickling. I got back up and looked and the D was not flashing so I feel like I was able to complete the procedure. Would there be any sign or indicators that I didn’t do it properly? I can monitor fluid temps over the next few days Via EngineLink on iOS.
The engine was running?
Yes that’s correct, I was running the fluid temp procedure from the FSM and opened the overflow plug while the engine was running.
Throw a temp gun on the pan and get the temp up to 110-115 or so and then check the level, wait for . The procedure that Toyota has us do is insanity in my opinion.
my 10 cents here…I would just use a 30 dollar temp gun and shoot the pan, when the pan temp is around 110(or whatever temp you want) then check your level. I have done this successfully with Toyota and Lexus products.
