Complete Transmission Flush DIY - VIDEO

[NLScooby]

My 200 was originally sold in Indiana - so it had some surface rust underneath. I used Kroil and I cleaned the exposed threads from the top side (as shown in the video) . Having already experienced a few broken bolts on this vehicle, I was extremely careful with these and they came out. My pan came off without a problem and I don't recall it having any RTV on it. If you have RTV holding your pan on, my guess is it was dropped by someone else before.

 

[Cybermig]

I ended up finishing the job yesterday and even though it was a royal PITA I have some piece of mind that it's done and that the new fluid/filter is in such better condition than what I took out of the system. I'll look to change it again in 60K miles. Truck seems to drive fine and no leaks via the trans belly pan even minus a corner bolt.

Thanks to NLScooby for the great instructions provided to the community.

 

[Bunga]

I'm interested in the PML deep pan, it looks like an excellent choice if the bolts can come off...
Does anyone know if it is deeper than the B&M? B&M doesn't post specs, but I know that works with my Bud's armor.

 

[tominboise]

Does anyone have the Toyota part number for the pan drain plug crush washer?

Also, how come the Aussie video didn't pin the thermostat open during the flushing?

 

[linuxgod]

Amazon product ASIN B07NHR9PN7

• Include (1) 90430-24003 copper washer for front differential drain plug
• Include (4) 90430-A0003 aluminum washers for transfer case (and transmission)
• Include (3) 12157-10010 steel washers rear & front differential

 

[cruiser100]

Amazon product ASIN B07NHR9PN7

• Include (1) 90430-24003 copper washer for front differential drain plug
• Include (4) 90430-A0003 aluminum washers for transfer case (and transmission)
• Include (3) 12157-10010 steel washers rear & front differential

I believe those are for the Diffs and Transfer case only.

The part numbers for the transmission are:
35178-30010 (2x crush washers for drain and overflow plugs)
90301-15004 (o-ring for fill plug)

 

[linuxgod]

I believe those are for the Diffs and Transfer case only.

The part numbers for the transmission are:
35178-30010 (2x crush washers for drain and overflow plugs)
90301-15004 (o-ring for fill plug)

Odd, according to my email my list was what I ordered from ToyotaPartsDeal.com back in 2016.

 

[cruiser100]

Odd, according to my email my list was what I ordered from ToyotaPartsDeal.com back in 2016.

I thought the same as you and almost started the change this weekend. Crawled under the rig and noticed the plug size looked smaller than the diffs did. Did some research and went back through the video and found the part numbers are different. Picked up the correct parts this morning and they are different. Crush washers are smaller and made of aluminum vs steel.

 

[linuxgod]

I thought the same as you and almost started the change this weekend. Crawled under the rig and noticed the plug size looked smaller than the diffs did. Did some research and went back through the video and found the part numbers are different. Picked up the correct parts this morning and they are different. Crush washers are smaller and made of aluminum vs steel.

Thanks. The trans fill is a rubber o-ring, according to the P/N?

Now that I think back we did the transfer case and diffs but weren't sure at the time how to do the transmission correctly so the dealer did it ($125, labor only). I supplied parts but if they were wrong the dealer must've either re-used the old parts or just replaced them and not charged me.

So for posterity apparently the correct list is...

Diffs:

• (1) 90430-24003 copper washer for front differential drain plug
• (3) 12157-10010 steel washers rear & front differential

Transfer case:

• (2) 90430-A0003 aluminum washers for transfer case

Transmission:

• (2) 35178-30010 crush washers for transmission drain and overflow plugs
• (1) 90301-15004 rubber o-ring for transmission fill plug

 

[OregonLC]

Just wanted to say thanks for the great DIY vid! Really helped. And I probably wouldn't have pulled the pan had it not been for your 'error'. Great job!

One small problem I encountered was I ended up with a small amount of ATF weeping from the under side of the gasket (between the pan and the gasket, not between the gasket and the trans). It doesn't drip or nor can it be seen on any surface other than between the gasket flap and the pan. You could definitely smell the ATF after getting out of the truck though. Pan was clean and no debris or scarring on the mating surface. Gasket was torqued to spec with a 1/4 torque wrench, but this honestly felt a little loose (at least as judged by the trusty 'elbow gauge'). After about 400 miles I applied a bit more torque using a small 1/4 drive socket (not a torque wrench) and got 1/8 - 1/4 turn on a few bolts in the weeping area without too much effort. I did purchase all new Toyota bolts (fearing corrosion as was in the vid). Hopefully the re-torque cured it (can't verify as it's been raining for the last two days!).

Also, I captured 100% of what came out and it totals ~11 qts. 12 qts went back in and it still didn't have any really flow come out the overflow port. A few drips but no steady stream. Was using Techstream to monitor and it was in the 109-118F range. Anyone else have this? I don't see any trans fluid in the service history and judging by the color (very brown at 125K!) so I'm pretty sure it's never been touched. How much is captured in the radiator (just changed that the week before). It does shift better and temps are happy so I'm not worried she's being starved, just surprised that it was over a quart low going into the flush. Planning to add more this weekend.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Just wanted to say thanks for the great DIY vid! Really helped. And I probably wouldn't have pulled the pan had it not been for your 'error'. Great job!

One small problem I encountered was I ended up with a small amount of ATF weeping from the under side of the gasket (between the pan and the gasket, not between the gasket and the trans). It doesn't drip or nor can it be seen on any surface other than between the gasket flap and the pan. You could definitely smell the ATF after getting out of the truck though. Pan was clean and no debris or scarring on the mating surface. Gasket was torqued to spec with a 1/4 torque wrench, but this honestly felt a little loose (at least as judged by the trusty 'elbow gauge'). After about 400 miles I applied a bit more torque using a small 1/4 drive socket (not a torque wrench) and got 1/8 - 1/4 turn on a few bolts in the weeping area without too much effort. I did purchase all new Toyota bolts (fearing corrosion as was in the vid). Hopefully the re-torque cured it (can't verify as it's been raining for the last two days!).

Also, I captured 100% of what came out and it totals ~11 qts. 12 qts went back in and it still didn't have any really flow come out the overflow port. A few drips but no steady stream. Was using Techstream to monitor and it was in the 109-118F range. Anyone else have this? I don't see any trans fluid in the service history and judging by the color (very brown at 125K!) so I'm pretty sure it's never been touched. How much is captured in the radiator (just changed that the week before). It does shift better and temps are happy so I'm not worried she's being starved, just surprised that it was over a quart low going into the flush. Planning to add more this weekend.

Curious, what are your highway speed transmission temps?

 

[coleAK]

Just wanted to say thanks for the great DIY vid! Really helped. And I probably wouldn't have pulled the pan had it not been for your 'error'. Great job!

One small problem I encountered was I ended up with a small amount of ATF weeping from the under side of the gasket (between the pan and the gasket, not between the gasket and the trans). It doesn't drip or nor can it be seen on any surface other than between the gasket flap and the pan. You could definitely smell the ATF after getting out of the truck though. Pan was clean and no debris or scarring on the mating surface. Gasket was torqued to spec with a 1/4 torque wrench, but this honestly felt a little loose (at least as judged by the trusty 'elbow gauge'). After about 400 miles I applied a bit more torque using a small 1/4 drive socket (not a torque wrench) and got 1/8 - 1/4 turn on a few bolts in the weeping area without too much effort. I did purchase all new Toyota bolts (fearing corrosion as was in the vid). Hopefully the re-torque cured it (can't verify as it's been raining for the last two days!).

Also, I captured 100% of what came out and it totals ~11 qts. 12 qts went back in and it still didn't have any really flow come out the overflow port. A few drips but no steady stream. Was using Techstream to monitor and it was in the 109-118F range. Anyone else have this? I don't see any trans fluid in the service history and judging by the color (very brown at 125K!) so I'm pretty sure it's never been touched. How much is captured in the radiator (just changed that the week before). It does shift better and temps are happy so I'm not worried she's being starved, just surprised that it was over a quart low going into the flush. Planning to add more this weekend.

I just did mine today for the 2nd time at 60k, I tow and off road a lot. Also was a quart low. I took off 11 put back in 11.5 since I learned last time it’s easier to overfill and drain then under fill and add more. I was still low so put in another quart. Then I drained extra off, so yes basically I was ~1 qt low. No signs of leaks anywhere I could tell.

 

[Fisher23]

Does anyone make a deep dish pan for the 8 speed trans?

I think my 8 speed trans is a AE80F

The previous trans was the AB60F and I can find pans for those but not the AE80F

 

[Fisher23]

I just did mine today for the 2nd time at 60k, I tow and off road a lot. Also was a quart low. I took off 11 put back in 11.5 since I learned last time it’s easier to overfill and drain then under fill and add more. I was still low so put in another quart. Then I drained extra off, so yes basically I was ~1 qt low. No signs of leaks anywhere I could tell.

How often do you change your trans fluid? every 30k?

 

[coleAK]

How often do you change your trans fluid? every 30k?

Yes, I do transfer case, ATF, and Diffs every 30k miles in my LX. Again I tow a 6800 lb camper 5-10k miles a summer, off road pretty hard often, and live in Alaska so glacier silt, extreme temps, and crappy roads. It’s been nasty both times, I can get it all done as well as an oil change and tire rotation in 3-4 hours with the help of my 2 kids.

 

[DWSD]

I want to say thanks to those who posted here these instructions. I probably am guilty of not reading the instructions thoroughly and not watching every moment of the video.

I did this procedure successfully, but also made a mess when I wrongfully assumed the soft line connected to the hard line with the red dot was hot fluid leaving the transmission and entering the trans fluid cooler via the hard line. My assumption was the blue was cooled fluid exiting the cooler.

So.... I had connected to the soft line rather than the hard line and pumped about 1/2 quart of dirty transmission fluid in to the engine bay and garage floor. Thank goodness for the epoxy floor, which made cleanup a bit easier. Still... what an EFFING mess.

LESSON LEARNED: Connect your drain line to the hard male line with the pink / red dot.

Doug

For those that have the oem tow package there is a separate tranny cooler on the right side of the radiator with two lines sticking out...you want to disconnect the top line
Marked in pink (output)and connect your drain line there as NLScooby mentioned you want to drain all the old fluid in the transcooler as well ( temporarily plug the oem line) View attachment 1455794

 

[HBAla LX570]

squad - i ended up buying double the QTY necessary of the ATF WS fluid, if anyone wants to buy them from me or they'll sit on my shelf in the garage for another 5-10 years until i do it again.

SOLD - Huntsville, Alabama - Toyota Lexus Scion ATF WS World Standard Transmission Fluid 12qts Case + 1 = total 13

I ordered two 6packs from ebay a couple weeks ago, but then realized the shipment wouldn't have arrived to my house in time before beach trip. so I went to dealership and purchased 14 same day. The guy on ebay wouldnt accept my return request so I have 12+ 1 extra that I ended up with after...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Fisher23]

Where is the least expensive place to purchase the Toyota ATF WS?

I found Amazon $105 for 12 with shipping.

 

[beanlard]

Please correct me if I have this wrong, I’m researching this now so that I can perform it on my 2011.

it seems that dropping the pan has at least two benefits:

• Draining from the plug alone leaves a lot of fluid in the pan and dropping it allows one to dump the remaining fluid
• You can replace the filter if you drop the pan

Dropping the pan has the added risk of breaking off a corroded corner bolt.

Would it be possible to extract the fluid that the drain plug doesn’t drain by inserting a hose and pumping it out? Then you’d only have the one downside of not replacing the filter if you left the pan in place

or perhaps the filter change is worth the risk of screwing up a bolt?

Thoughts? I’m looking for the lowest risk, highest benefit route. Would rather not be in there for the whole weekend after swapping out a leaking water pump and radiator with early signs of The Crack last weekend.

 

[Fisher23]

In my many many years .. I've never broken off a pan bolt. if I did think it may happen I would just be prepared with drill and tap.

Like any oil change .. not much benefit if it is at the limit and you do not change the filter, so not understanding that?