Clutch master hydraulic line removal tips (2 Viewers)

[tc01]

My clutch slave cylinder gave out, leaving a puddle on the floor under the passenger side. I bought a replacement master and slave cylinder since the recommendation is to replace both at the same time. I’ve been trying to get the hydraulic line off the master cylinder for the last 3 days, nursing it with PB blaster and light taps with a hammer, but I haven’t been able to get it off. I also haven’t been able to get the clutch hose off the slave, I’ve also been nursing that with PB blaster. I’ve left the master and slave bolted to the truck for more leverage in getting these off.

At this point I’m afraid of stripping the hydraulic line bolt, I’m getting close. Any tips on getting these off? I assume this is the original master/slave. Should I just get a new hydraulic line and take off the slave and master with all lines stuck in them?

 

[B y r o n]

You need to be using flare nut wrenches otherwise you will destroy the nuts. You didn't mention the year of the vehicle but it is possible that the nuts have welded/rusted themselves to the master and slave and both lines will need to be replaced.

 

[Green Bean]

No help here, but perhaps to suggest if you are not already using a line wrench, to go that route. I would also agree that if you suspect that you are dealing with the original master & slave then it may be a good idea to go ahead and replace the hoses while you are in there.
Amazon product ASIN B08FB2N8V6

 

[charliemeyer007]

Maybe carefully add some torch heat, several times while reapplying penetrating oil. I like Kroil the best for really rusted/bonded stuff. I just did mine this summer - new master/slave and a braided stainless hose connecting them for like $160 off ebay. It had the long hose; it was $50 more for the short hose, I just made a loop. Did have to reuse the nose cone for the slave.

When you put stuff back on anti-seize compound is a good plan. For the master cylinder bolt that hides behind the vacuum booster, use a hacksaw and cut a slot in the head. That way you can use a screwdriver to run the bolt in/out and just the wrench to snug/loosen it.

 

[rainingagain]

Maybe carefully add some torch heat, several times while reapplying penetrating oil. I like Kroil the best for really rusted/bonded stuff. I just did mine this summer - new master/slave and a braided stainless hose connecting them for like $160 off ebay. It had the long hose; it was $50 more for the short hose, I just made a loop. Did have to reuse the nose cone for the slave.

When you put stuff back on anti-seize compound is a good plan. For the master cylinder bolt that hides behind the vacuum booster, use a hacksaw and cut a slot in the head. That way you can use a screwdriver to run the bolt in/out and just the wrench to snug/loosen it.

This. Take your time and heat it up a few times if needed. And don't even look at them if you aren't using a line wrench haha.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Anyone have a link to the braided stainless hose with the right fittings for this application? This is on my list for the next 30-60 days.

 

[70fj40]

I would suggest replacing your soft line at the same time. They are cheap and good insurance against a soft pedal that will drive you nuts looking for a leak with no visible sign of fluid. High degree of agrivation guaranteed.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I would suggest replacing your soft line at the same time. They are cheap and good insurance against a soft pedal that will drive you nuts looking for a leak with no visible sign of fluid. High degree of agrivation guaranteed.

That's the plan. I have been replacing everything rubber as I go along.

 

[igotta40]

It doesn’t seem logical to me to try saving the cheapest part.

 

[peesalot]

Cruiserteq, new lines, be done with it.

 

[tc01]

Thanks for all the suggestions here. I’m working on a 9/76. I did plan to replace the soft line at the same time (If I can get it off ). I got one from CityRacer along with my new master and slave cylinders.

@peesalot does Cruiser Outfitters sell the hard lines too, or do you mean the soft line?

@charliemeyer007 any chance you have a link to the listing where you bought your lines on eBay? Was it for a post-1974 application?

@Green Bean @byron1324 @rainingagain thanks for the tip on the flare but wrench, I’m going to get one before proceeding. And good tip on the master bolt on the booster side- I haven’t even gotten that one off yet but it looks like it will be a pain as well.

 

[peesalot]

I believe they have the hard lines as well.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Mine is a 72 that has been with me since 82. The kit was on ebay. Its like $120 for the long hose. I did add a copper washer on the fitting in the slave, from my collection. Put that end on the slave first, then bolt the unit in place, and route the hose. I did have to reuse the slave nose cone. Other that those, it works great. Very Happy. I knew my slave was bad and I had a kit for it. Getting it off, the inside was really bad. I bought the ebay unit. Turned out the master was just about as bad. Steel line and hose came off just fine but I put on the braded SS one.
Down below the item there is SS Toy hose for $20 that might work.

Clutch Master Slave Cylinder Conversion for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 | eBay

This is a quick easy bolt on, you just add fluid. This kit fits EARLY to 80 FJ40’s, FJ45’s and FJ55’s. This fits 3 spd and 4 spd models.May have to reuse original slave pushrod. This is the JT Outfitters Hydraulic Clutch Conversion.

www.ebay.com

 

[cruisermatt]

No one is making the +75 hard lines new other then me. I have a really nice original 75-79 example line as a sample to base off of. I do make them in stainless steel with the correct fittings on them. I also have the OEM soft hoses in stock

 

[tc01]

I got a flare nut wrench, but still no luck removing the hydraulic line from the master, or the hose from the slave. I don't have the kind of heat that is probably necessary to apply to get these off. I'm considering purchasing a new hard line from @cruisermatt and taking off the master with the hard line still in it, and the slave with the hose still attached. Is this possible? Would I have to cut the hard line in a couple of places? And when installing the new line, how hard of a job will it be to install the new hard line? Anything that will probably have to come off?

 

[rainingagain]

You just need one of these guys. Or better yet the yellow map gas version.

Have to tried tightening it a bit. A bit of back and forth. The junction for the hard to soft line is not removable so you won't be able to pull the whole unit. Pretty sure it's welded on anyway.

 

[rainingagain]

You just need one of these guys. Or better yet the yellow map gas version.

View attachment 3518992

Have to tried tightening it a bit. A bit of back and forth. The junction for the hard to soft line is not removable so you won't be able to pull the whole unit. Pretty sure it's welded on anyway.

Actually if you are going to purchase a new soft line, just cut the one you have if you want to get this out and onto your workbench.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

^the above suggestions, but Kroil is your friend. One of the best, if not the best penetrant. Apply it, and give it a day or two.

 

[cruisermatt]

If you’re replacing the line, then no reason to remove the original intact.

 

[bikersmurf]

I agree with Matt’s statement above… the line is heading to the scrap heap.

That said heat, penetrating oil, ice, and repeat. Just in case you want to practice or for the next part.

The thing I loved most about working on my ‘08 Toyota, and newer landcruisers I’ve got parts from is rust… I mean lack of it. Even my ‘97 Ford has very little rust and it would be easier to work on it the engine bay wasn’t designed by one of Satan’s loyal followers. It doesn’t help that they stuffed a 7.3 International PSD into a tiny van engine bay meant for an engine 1/2 the size.