Build Chronicles of Bonnie and Clyde

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Using valvoline VR in the ‘56 t-bird…read a ton of stuff on the flat tappet cam and ZDDP ..etc..etc..etc ad infinitum . Then read days worth of the 540 Rat blog. Check it out if you so desire but …it is wordy and the meat of the info starts about 30% in

540ratblog.wordpress.com

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com 540ratblog.wordpress.com
 
The Rotellas are good oils. The F engines are not too picky about oils, it would be hard to find a bad oil for the F...
 
greenbeast said:
seems like it’s of folks using Rotella
Click to expand...
20 years ago that wasn't a bad choice..



The oil company’s now need to make 50 state compliant oil that meet or exceed California’s (CARB) standards for all oil used in on-highway vehicles, yes some are better than others in your old flat tappet Toyota tractor engines but for what we do here and the amount of miles driven with these old girls use a good oil. (They took out everything you want and need for your old engine)

I like Driven “Hot rod” oil for your Toyota engine, I personally use Driven's DZL Diesel Oil in all my junk around here but only because it’s easy for me to keep several gallons on hand at all times.

These oils are labeled “for off road use only” and skirt around (CARB) compliance.

Driven Racing Oil - https://www.drivenracingoil.com/a/search?q=hot+rod&options%5Bprefix%5D=last



I buy it from summit racing and order $100.00 worth at a time to get the free shipping.



www.summitracing.com

Free Shipping on Orders Over $125 at Summit Racing

Get Parts and Accessories fast! Low Prices, Fast Shipping, Easy Returns, US Based Support, Trusted Brands at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

There are other good companies like Redline oil or Lucas that offer " racing oil" for old cars..
 
greenbeast said:
So brakes are sure thing, I’d like to get it running like it did before it was at its 3 year paint and body experience.

When it did start there was quite a bit of smoke. Doing little reading any issues using some Marvel mystery oil in the plug holes and gas?

Then when I can push it outside spray some carb cleaner in it while running after I replace plugs with new one.

I use to drive this to town in Colorado and it ran great. Don’t need it to take to town but would be nice to have it running better for next owner.
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Did you try some preliminary cranking to get everything oiled?
 
greenbeast said:
Pondering how I was going to get fluid within cylinders the use of syringe is no brainer. Of course I don’t have one and could see need in shop to have some.

Sitting at desk 10 minutes ago nurse I’m working with proceeds to tell me how a patient dropped off box of syringes after her husband passed wondering if we could use them. All are expired so can’t use them in clinic.

Ironic how things work out sometime…now I look like some kind of addict!

View attachment 4049996
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I used to manage a hematology analyzer and one of the service items was a curved-tip syringe for flushing tubing. That was a handy item to have around!
 
greenbeast said:
Yes sir that’s big plan. Changing oil this evening, got Wix oil filter waiting to be picked up along with new plugs. Planning on 2 ounces in 5 gallon of gas also for Orange Clyde.

Taking lunch shortly running to Autozone to by a gallon. Saturday gonna give Clyde’s twin a good run to town and put some in tank along with change oil on it also.

Watched some cool videos lying in bed last night showing results of using it.
Click to expand...
Do you think it is a better option than the gas stabilizer products?
 
J Mack said:
Amazon sells a syringe with "Curved Tip" or "Irrigation Syringe" that is perfect for shop use ( glue or oil) and I'll go through a couple dozen a year around here..

p-16867-327837_IrrigationSyringe_rpl_200x200.jpg
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Those are great!
 
greenbeast said:
Oil change day for cruisers. Been reading that it seems like it’s of folks using Rotella 15w-40 in their cruisers?

I’ve got that good old fashion 10-40, anyone using the Rotella? No extreme cold here and likely won’t be driven when it’s absolutely freezing outside and maybe the detergents could help?
Click to expand...
This is a blend, right? Not full synthetic?
 
J Mack said:
20 years ago that wasn't a bad choice..



The oil company’s now need to make 50 state compliant oil that meet or exceed California’s (CARB) standards for all oil used in on-highway vehicles, yes some are better than others in your old flat tappet Toyota tractor engines but for what we do here and the amount of miles driven with these old girls use a good oil. (They took out everything you want and need for your old engine)

I like Driven “Hot rod” oil for your Toyota engine, I personally use Driven's DZL Diesel Oil in all my junk around here but only because it’s easy for me to keep several gallons on hand at all times.

These oils are labeled “for off road use only” and skirt around (CARB) compliance.

Driven Racing Oil - https://www.drivenracingoil.com/a/search?q=hot+rod&options%5Bprefix%5D=last



I buy it from summit racing and order $100.00 worth at a time to get the free shipping.



www.summitracing.com

Free Shipping on Orders Over $125 at Summit Racing

Get Parts and Accessories fast! Low Prices, Fast Shipping, Easy Returns, US Based Support, Trusted Brands at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

There are other good companies like Redline oil or Lucas that offer " racing oil" for old cars..
Click to expand...
Is the main thing you are after is some zinc for the solid lifters?
 
Clyde oil changed. Amazing how oil plug on the F engine took 24mm socket!

Bleeding brakes tomorrow and if things don’t improve will swap in new brake cylinder that came in today from cruiser outfitters. Curious if during its long tenure in junction something happened.

Gonna install new plugs after cranking to get the MMO out of the cylinders and see if it starts and runs any better. Fingers crossed.

Actually drove Bonnie little on property today, sure felt good. Arranging for her to be picked up and taken to Houston after Christmas.
 
J Mack said:
Yes and no..

This is along convoluted discussion and I don't know if this is the right platform..
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I for one would like to know about the zinc and old flat tappers. Does the science support it which I’m sure it does to a degree but is there more to it as there always is?

Maybe an optimal fluids thread for these old pigs? Be interesting to what everyone uses from axles to engine and the why behind it?
 
greenbeast said:
Maybe an optimal fluids thread for these old pigs? Be interesting to what everyone uses from axles to engine and the why behind it?
Click to expand...
Many threads on this subject amongst the 40, 60, and 80 crowd. I think there are few wrong answers in these drivetrains other than maybe avoiding GL-5 fluids in the transmissions (the sulphur compounded additives found in GL-5 fluids are not good for brass/bronze synchros). I only found a couple of threads specific to this subject so if you want to start a more comprehensive thread I'm sure many of us would contribute.

LAMBCRUSHER

Post in thread 'Oil Change on the Pig'

I start by using the lightest oil that can lube the engine...then about 40-50K miles, I switch to using Delo 15-40 conventional with a little bit of Lucas oil additive (for zddp content) as that is what the older engines use...it is easier to keep just 1 type of oil around. I can get away with it cause all my motors are from the Toyota F family. I use a wix 51515 filter. I got a 3' x 4' absorbent mat to lay out under the engine and drain pans and I use 2 14" x 24" pans to catch the oil. One under the sump, one under the diff. Keeping the one under the sump close to the pan keeps the oil...

cruiser_guy

Post in thread 'Oil Change'

firstade said:
What would the difference be between using conventional or synthetic so early IYO? Thanks for the info!
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You need things to get seated right. Synthetic is too slippery for the break in period. The 2F is not exactly a Ferrari engine, it can take normal oil and live a good long life.

I don't put a lot of miles on my Land Cruisers and when I was working out of the country they would often sit for months, or even years, at a time (as did my other vehicles). Full synthetic oils tend to break down less over time so I generally use all synthetics. With some exceptions I use , Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 or 5W-30 depending on the engine. I like the Redline synthetics for the drivetrain: MT90 for the trans and their 75W90 in the diffs. I have used both at times in the transfer case. Amsoil Universal ATF is a great automatic transmission fluid. I use that in my 80.

Again, I think you can put almost any oil in these engines and they will run just fine. If it's non synthetic you just need to change it more often.
 
greenbeast said:
I for one would like to know about the zinc and old flat tappers. Does the science support it which I’m sure it does to a degree but is there more to it as there always is?
Click to expand...
It's pretty much agreed upon that flat tappets and cam lobes like Zinc. Oil scientists on the youtube will tell you why. I've heard that Zinc used to come standard in motor oils, not so much these days. Bad for cats or something.
 
Pighead said:
It's pretty much agreed upon that flat tappets and cam lobes like Zinc. Oil scientists on the youtube will tell you why. I've heard that Zinc used to come standard in motor oils, not so much these days. Bad for cats or something.
Click to expand...
This article is actually a pretty good, and thankfully brief, explanation of the why. Modern oils still contain zinc but not as much as before and probably not enough for a 2F. Given that I barely put 200 miles per year on these engines and went a long time between oil changes, I had other concerns. I should probably rethink things if I start driving the pig or Troopy more often.

Zinc Additive for Oil—How Much ZDDP is Enough

How does ZDDP or zinc help my engine live longer, what does ZDDP do and why is it important to use ZDDP oil in my engine?
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com
 
Shop needs some fans, got Clyde 0.5 running after 10ml MMO in each cylinder. Let it sit for 48 hours.

Gapped and replaced new plugs.

Oil changed

Cranked her without much luck then very brief shot of starting fluid and she came to life. Actually ran quite well but white smoke coming out pretty good which prompts the need for fans. Kim noticed pretty quickly!

I filled shop up pretty good before shutting door. Of course no wind tonight but thankfully crazy warm for this time of year.

Shut it off several times and it fired right up immediately after.

Added a little coolant, continued to run her and smoke cleared up a little but definitely didn’t go away. Now unsure if it could be the head gasket, MMO or both.

On bright side engine ran great, no missing and had great throttle response.

Checking coolant level when I get home from half day of work tomorrow. Get smaller hose to bleed brakes when in town.

Need to fix oil pressure and temp gauges which aren’t working which I’m sure were simply disconnected when he undid dash.

IMG_4554.webp
 
Other Clyde 0.5 got a good drive today, probably 120 miles or so. Ran down to barbershop in town 25 miles to the south and he offered me 10k on the spot for her. Kel and I went north first thing this morning running errands.


With 4 others in front of me everyone got an education about land cruisers from the discussion I had with the barber.

IMG_4552.webp
 
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