Oil Change on the Pig (1 Viewer)

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I have a 1972 Fj55 and am going to do my own oil change. Wondering if anyone could recommend what type of oil I should use! Thank you!!
 
My opinion, any good brand will be fine and don't waste your money buying synthetic oil for your old motor (unless it's a fresh rebuild). You'll have plenty of opportunity to spend good money on other things for it. I was always taught to do your maintenance items, like oil changes on time. I shot for 3,000 to 3,500 miles for oil & filter.

Changing your own oil gives a guy a chance to look around under there, check for leaks or loose bolts and wear eye protection because rust likes falling into them. :)
 
I start by using the lightest oil that can lube the engine...then about 40-50K miles, I switch to using Delo 15-40 conventional with a little bit of Lucas oil additive (for zddp content) as that is what the older engines use...it is easier to keep just 1 type of oil around. I can get away with it cause all my motors are from the Toyota F family. I use a wix 51515 filter. I got a 3' x 4' absorbent mat to lay out under the engine and drain pans and I use 2 14" x 24" pans to catch the oil. One under the sump, one under the diff. Keeping the one under the sump close to the pan keeps the oil from splashing everywhere. the one under the diff catches the oil that always falls onto the diff from removing the filter. Usually spend about 2 rags; one for cleaning prior to filling, one for cleaning after filling. I have dedicated 5 gallon jugs for oil and for coolant to take to the recyclers. get the thing good and warm or you'll never get all the old oil out. nitrile gloves, safety glasses and a lab coat so I don't look like I just got done rolling in the sty. HTH
 
I burn enough oil and add a quart so often i don't need to "change" the oil.

honestly, i have a 350 so maybe its different. I like to use Rotella. I like it real thick and juicy, so it doesn't seep as much. I change every 3k or after a long trip. Synthetic likes to find a way out of the engine so i like dino-lube.
 
apparently Rotella ranks low for push rod engines. maybe ill have to make a change.
 
good to know my go to oil castrol rates high .. now off to buy 4 cases of ProLong . thanks J Mac:)
 
I have found this CJ 15w-40 Delo oil to be the best all around oil for price and protection.
Delo 400 LE SAE 15W-40 | Chevron Lubricants


It has all the ZDDP you need and every major heavy duty vehicle certification that is available.
See the spider chart I put together.

I don't buy into the claim that flat tappet engines do not need the high ZDDP levels.
Mobil put the ZDDP call out for flat tappets directly on the 15w-50 bottle recently.
I trust their opinion over some engineer on the internet.


delo 400LE 15w40 dino oil with certs.JPG

delo pds.JPG
 
I have found this CJ 15w-40 Delo oil to be the best all around oil for price and protection.

Not sure if I’m reading this right,

Chevron Delo 400 oil is in fact descent oil, the link you provided is for Chevron Delo 400 “LE” which is very middle of the road and ranks at or near the bottom of many of the independent oil analysis I’ve read.

If you want a good to great affordable 15W40 oil the Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 beats the Delo 400 “LE” on both price and performance.



Having trouble linking some of the links I have but I’ll try to convert some reading material to a PDF and link it below.
 

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Not sure if I’m reading this right,

Chevron Delo 400 oil is in fact descent oil, the link you provided is for Chevron Delo 400 “LE” which is very middle of the road and ranks at or near the bottom of many of the independent oil analysis I’ve read.

If you want a good to great affordable 15W40 oil the Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 beats the Delo 400 “LE” on both price and performance.



Having trouble linking some of the links I have but I’ll try to convert some reading material to a PDF and link it below.


So confusing since your report is from someone at lubrizol which is where my spider chart tool originated. I still find it hard to believe achieving all those certs is for "ho hum" oil. Those big equipment guys just don't roll over when handing those certs out.
I think the CJ DELO formula is the last one still putting in adequate Z and P now. All others in the delo product line have lowered amounts. Big industry trend currently in the diesel oil market to lower z and p from what I can tell.

I did agree with this statement below in the report. It conflicts with the report you posted earlier. But from everything I've read, it's accurate.

"Low P means the Feds placed a limit on the amount of
Zincdithiophosphate (Zinc and Phosphorus) additive which can be
utilized. ZDP is the most effective oxidation inhibitor and anti-wear
agent currently available. Additive manufacturers are now forced to
use more expensive and less effective ashless oxidation inhibitors
and antiwear agents."
 
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