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- #581
Build Chronicles of Bonnie and Clyde
- Thread starter greenbeast
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Pretty amazing if she can do a front knuckle job with the tires on!
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- #583
That was just beginning of swapping some hubs. Couldn’t find pic where she did the driver side of the 40 project after watching me do the opposite side. Point was she isn’t afraid of getting her hands dirty.
Believe me Jon, I'm impressed. Mine will get her hands dirty potting flowers but grease is a no go.
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- #585
When I asked her if she wanted to do other side even after colorful language and the million paper towels I used I was surprised when she said “sure”.
Prior to that, she was not very involved. Have to keep her engaged, her 62 looks to have oil pan gasket leak also after we just got out from under it.
She is learning!
Yeah that is my experience as well, although she will pump brakes etc when I need her.
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- #587
If I’m pulling the carb do I just do my first ever carb rebuild? Also looks like couple things not attached, not sure of their significance? This drive train going to be sold after body swap in January so don’t want to put a ton of money into it.
Brakes crap also and doubt these is cheap way to get little more life out of the master here. No fluid loss anywhere but would sure like to be able to stop when pulling up on trailer without pumping brakes like crazy and saying little prayer. I’m guessing just easiest to replace?
Looks like I can he appropriate master for $67 from Kurt, so will go that route.
Are gaskets where the air breather connects to the carb sold based on diameter?
Brakes crap also and doubt these is cheap way to get little more life out of the master here. No fluid loss anywhere but would sure like to be able to stop when pulling up on trailer without pumping brakes like crazy and saying little prayer. I’m guessing just easiest to replace?
Looks like I can he appropriate master for $67 from Kurt, so will go that route.
Are gaskets where the air breather connects to the carb sold based on diameter?
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- Thread starter
- #588
Trying to ident this carb and before someone sends me link to identifying carbs I’ve read the entire thread almost twice.
I can assume carb made either in 66 or 76 which I doubt the latter. What appears to be zero I’ve read can’t be “O” as the avoided this and doesn’t fit the format.
Of course rebuild kits vary quite a bit in 60s unless I’m way off?
I can assume carb made either in 66 or 76 which I doubt the latter. What appears to be zero I’ve read can’t be “O” as the avoided this and doesn’t fit the format.
Of course rebuild kits vary quite a bit in 60s unless I’m way off?
That looks like a '69 carb. I've never owned one but I've heard they're not the best carb Toyota ever made.
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- #590
I have hard time thinking it was even built in 66. I think 69 would make sense since 69 pig. Of course changes in rebuild kits mid 69…
May be best off just fixing brakes and cleaning carb since I’m not holding onto it.
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- #592
So brakes are sure thing, I’d like to get it running like it did before it was at its 3 year paint and body experience.
When it did start there was quite a bit of smoke. Doing little reading any issues using some Marvel mystery oil in the plug holes and gas?
Then when I can push it outside spray some carb cleaner in it while running after I replace plugs with new one.
I use to drive this to town in Colorado and it ran great. Don’t need it to take to town but would be nice to have it running better for next owner.
When it did start there was quite a bit of smoke. Doing little reading any issues using some Marvel mystery oil in the plug holes and gas?
Then when I can push it outside spray some carb cleaner in it while running after I replace plugs with new one.
I use to drive this to town in Colorado and it ran great. Don’t need it to take to town but would be nice to have it running better for next owner.
Did you oil the cylinders before you sent it to the paint shop?
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- #595
Did not, never planned on it taking that long then moved.
It was started on occasion and moved around for various things like upholstery and in and out of the shop.
Hopefully it's just some dry valve seals.
If it continues to smoke on startup then go away then that's a good place to start..
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- #597
After starting it seemed to go away, at least when Kim backing off trailer and revving the engine pretty good!
I've used it in both the cylinders and tank 
swear by dat 
. My 40 sat for 6 years with Marvel in it, cleaned mouse house from air cleaner and jump started it, 
ed right 
.
swear by dat . My 40 sat for 6 years with Marvel in it, cleaned mouse house from air cleaner and jump started it, ed right .
- Thread starter
- #599
Bought me some at lunch, Kim out of town driving daughter back from school since she can’t drive due to recent seizures with her epilepsy.I've used it in both the cylinders and tank
Gonna mess around with it when I get home while puppies stretch legs outside.
Another 3-4 days/nights with just me and the biatches!
It’s probably been 30 years since I’ve used marvel mystery oil but the can itself was amusing to read… some of those very old motorcycles ran ok and I always hoped it was a good thing. On the other hand, I had a friend who was a helicopter pilot at McGuire AFB who usually only rode his motorcycle from NJ to his home in Maryland every weekend, put over 100,000 miles on that v-twin air cooled engine. Thats a lot of miles for that engine…The mechanics there at the base helped rebuild the motor with him and mic’ed and measured everything… he told me then there was so little wear on parts that he did not replace things he swore would need to be replaced.
He used Marvel Mystery oil religiously despite Harley telling he would void any warranties in place doing so.
He used Marvel Mystery oil religiously despite Harley telling he would void any warranties in place doing so.