Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

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No tune-up type adjustments yet but went for a short drive tonight and warmed the truck up. Cool night with a little rain. Turned the heater on for the first time and it works :p. Seems to be running really well at this point.
 
RFG is also causing rubber diaphragms in fuel pumps to crack & crumble, sending tiny shards of trash directly to the carb.

Only fix is to keep the carb inlet screen intact, but that just leads to the screen being restricted, which still requires air horn disassembly to properly clean.

Thanks, EPA! :flipoff2:
 
Gusb said:
More info for Kevin. Thinking of having a number of these made up - 2 images and drawing attached. Note: Updated bracket drawing to 16 GA on September 18, 2010.
Click to expand...

Gus, did you end up getting these made? I could use both sides if yes...
 
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PabloCruise said:
Gus, did you end up getting these made? I could use both sides if yes...
Click to expand...

My thought was to get Kevin (Awl_TEQ) in Canada or someone local to fab up a bunch of these (along with a few other parts) to factory specs. Kevin’s busy all the time. I’m not sure what kind of market there would be - reasonable price point, etc.

Some people don’t put a lot of importance on replacing this kind of stuff to stock dimensions. So haven't done it yet but still might check it out. I’ve held on to all the rusted old stock parts for measurements/reference.

My hammer/vise/hacksaw/file routine is not the most productive process. :D
combo-bracket.webp
 
Gusb said:
Home made plug welding - welder helper tool:

Look back at the small, in process patched area on the door in post #159 – this thing is down inside the door, holding a small ¼” 18 GA disc behind the 1/8” hole on the right - ready for weld. Also made up a copper attachment (see below). More “long-winded” :grinpimp: details if you want them at:
tools | FJ40 Toolbox
Click to expand...

It looks like your link changed:

http://www.fj40toolbox.com/?q=content/home-grown
 
Gusb said:
My thought was to get Kevin (Awl_TEQ) in Canada or someone local to fab up a bunch of these (along with a few other parts) to factory specs. Kevin’s busy all the time. I’m not sure what kind of market there would be - reasonable price point, etc.

Some people don’t put a lot of importance on replacing this kind of stuff to stock dimensions. So haven't done it yet but still might check it out. I’ve held on to all the rusted old stock parts for measurements/reference.

My hammer/vise/hacksaw/file routine is not the most productive process. :D
Click to expand...

Okay, just wanted to check. I appreciate your drawings with dimensions, so I thought if I could support your process I would try!
Thank you!
 
Gusb said:
One-of-a-kind, strong (14 GA) license plate assy mount adapter bracket. For when the ambulance doors are off - uses the existing hinge mount. I'll hit it with some EP when the gun is up again.
Click to expand...

Curious if you made any extra of these?

I have an idea about modifying my rear license plate bracket, and then found this! This would compliment my mod when the top comes off.

Thanks again, I very much enjoy your ideas...
 
Gus,
Great thread!
I sped through the last few pages to see if you got resolution on your steering, castor and oil leak.
I have lived through these issues as well.
I ended up modifying my 40 to go with 60 series power steering and love it.
I went with 4 degree shims for castor after lifting my 40.
The shop that rebuilt the 2F tighted the oil suirter all the way in creating an oil leak where the backing plate mounts to the block - a lot of work to remedy that leak!
I hope these links can help you:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/co-wy-hors...j40-while-keeping-air-pump-2.html#post1008741
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/151088-death-wobble-after-adding-4-degree-shims.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/45757-downey-4-inch-lift.html (lift thread discusses castor in it)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/82530-steering-slop-another-source.html (discusses a little slop I found when putting in power steering)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/315423-timing-cover-seal.html (looks like I did not create a thread for the oil squirter repair)
 
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PabloCruise said:
Curious if you made any extra of these?

I have an idea about modifying my rear license plate bracket, and then found this! This would compliment my mod when the top comes off.

Thanks again, I very much enjoy your ideas...
Click to expand...

Thanks Pablo. My license plate mount I’m really happy with (doesn’t take much to make me happy:grinpimp:) but I only made the one. Captivated nuts, etc. would help. This part/design would be added to any “production run” down the road.

Just a thought - if I were planning on going without the hardtop/doors for a long time I would be worried about some kind of tailgate. Not just stuff rolling out the back but I’ve noticed a lot of exhaust/dust blows right up inside from back there. I think even a small gate would help redirect that air flow a little. And in that case the license plate could just be mounted on the tailgate.
 
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Gusb said:
Thanks Pablo. My license plate mount I’m really happy with (doesn’t take much to make me happy:grinpimp:) but I only made the one. Captivated nuts, etc. would help. This part/design would be added to any “production run” down the road.

Just a thought - if I were planning on going without the hardtop/doors for a long time I would be worried about some kind of tailgate. Not just stuff rolling out the back but I’ve noticed a lot of exhaust/dust blows right up inside from back there. I think even a small gate would help redirect that air flow a little. And in that case the license plate could just be mounted on the tailgate.
Click to expand...

I hear you on the tailgate.
When I go topless every summer I have a SOR panel that fills in the void, but I would like to go with a panel that did not block the airflow.
So I would like to construct a "tailgate" (fixed, no hinges) out of a frame with expanded metal in the middle.
I could weld a tab on the expanded metal for the license bracket, but your mount seemed to simplify things...
 
My SOR panel is drilled for the license plate bracket from the amby door, so it has the light. It is also already painted Olive.

In my copious free time I would like to make a bolt-on tailgate so you could have a factory-looking tailgate that bolted on a late-model tub without drilling. I've got the design in my head and it's not very complicated.

My '76 needs so much body work back there that when I got my nice tailgate, I just busted out the drill and drilled. The factory tailgate is so awesome that I may do my body work and permanently convert to soft top/tailgate configuration.
 
More fuel delivery problems. The truck has been running great. Filled the tank yesterday and had a conversation with 2 guys from San Salvador in a nice jeep - they were very interested in the 40 - said they were common back there. Started home feeling good - short run on 101 at about 67 mph (iPhone speedo). When I pulled off the freeway I heard what sounded like maybe a backfire or two and then at 30-35 mph the engine started to miss - kind of like big "flat" spots of no gas. Stopped and looked around the engine, etc. Pulling the choke off and on helped me manage to limp it back home. Happy Thanksgiving :rolleyes:

Pulled the air cleaner this AM and can't see anything around the carb. Seems to idle fine but any gas and you get one normal-like rev and then it dies. If I pull the choke and turn the key it starts and revs up and then just dies. Do it any number of times and it continues to start - and then just dies. I'm thinking maybe the fuel pump (which I think is probably 30+ year old original) is my next adventure? Also wondering about the old worn rubber/new gas in the pump that came up earlier, etc.

I'm searching... Any feedback from the experts out there as always, very appreciated.

Update: Don't think it's the pump - the glass level seems to maintain a dot-level amount of gas...
Another question/possibility... maybe the main nozzle fuel circuit of the carb primary is now plugged with the same weird stuff that got in the accelerator jet?

Note: ICS makes "Click" sound when carb connector is plugged/unplugged w/ KOEO
 
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Yes, if the fuel level is on the sight glass, then there is enough fuel in the bowl for the carb to function.
Sounds like the problem is internal to the carb, or some kind of ignition failure.
 
No points in the 78 distributor.

CruiserStuff said:
I had (what I think) is the same problem.....turned out to be my points. One of the "arms" had broken and caused the problems you're describing.
Click to expand...
 
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