Better confirm you still have the electronic '78 distributor!
Sometimes they get swapped out by a PO...
Sometimes they get swapped out by a PO...
Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?
- Thread starter Gusb
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- #582
Third time's a charm? I really appreciate all the good experience I'm getting removing/installing the carb. 
Can't see anything at this point. Seems to me like maybe the accelerator pump (working well now) supplies some gas and that's the squirt the engine runs on until it dies. Need to pick up a can of spray carb cleaner. Dumb question - where are the other main feed points I should be looking at, primary venturi feed and ...?
Maybe should have tried to figure out how to check the ignition stuff first...
No points BTW - appears stock.
Can't see anything at this point. Seems to me like maybe the accelerator pump (working well now) supplies some gas and that's the squirt the engine runs on until it dies. Need to pick up a can of spray carb cleaner. Dumb question - where are the other main feed points I should be looking at, primary venturi feed and ...?
Maybe should have tried to figure out how to check the ignition stuff first...
No points BTW - appears stock.
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I spy a minor glitch- teflon plumbing tape.
Remove that shiite. It is not fuel proof. It is only for aiding in insertion of tapered pipe threads. The threads on the FIF and FRF are not sealed, they only pull the soft brass compression sleeve ("olive" in engrish parlance) into the fitting, which distorts and seals.
Remove that shiite. It is not fuel proof. It is only for aiding in insertion of tapered pipe threads. The threads on the FIF and FRF are not sealed, they only pull the soft brass compression sleeve ("olive" in engrish parlance) into the fitting, which distorts and seals.
Oh, that's right.....my bad.....
- Thread starter
- #585
Thanks for that tidbit - always wondered about that - I was even worried about the "right" kind of tape. Just another case of me "making things better"
(you should see my hot water heater).BTW - because of you I've got a 9mm deep socket on order from Snapon and my wife is not happy.
- Thread starter
- #586
Don't know if this could cause the current problem but it can't be good. This O ring looked OK and I didn't change it (live and learn). Kind of dumb considering it could be 30+ years old. 
At least I've found something.
Can't find blockage anywhere else with the carb spray. Replaced the Power valve with a new one from the Hygrade kit (even though it has a plastic part
) just for heck of it.
At least I've found something.Can't find blockage anywhere else with the carb spray. Replaced the Power valve with a new one from the Hygrade kit (even though it has a plastic part
) just for heck of it.
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If the o-ring crumbled and got stuck in the idle passage, then it could hypothetically cause the lack of idle.
Never seen that, but doesn't mean it's not possible.
Never seen that, but doesn't mean it's not possible.
- Thread starter
- #588
Put the carb back in with a static 1-1/2 turns out on the Idle mixture adjusting screw. Seems to start and run just fine (idle needs adjusting). So it must be that torn O ring in the Solenoid Valve? Strange that little rubber part made the truck nonoperational. I did put another Power Valve in but the original looked OK.
Movie link shows a short run right after the carb went on with no adjustment/hot tuneup. Warning - boring movie - viewer discretion advised. The part where I almost run over the neighbor is good - the rear brakes still have a tendency to lock if I hit them a little hard.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kehH4Yyi6Qs&feature=youtu.be
So maybe I'm good for another few days until the next carb rebuild. Note no Teflon tape on the FIF and FRF this time around.
Movie link shows a short run right after the carb went on with no adjustment/hot tuneup. Warning - boring movie - viewer discretion advised. The part where I almost run over the neighbor is good
- the rear brakes still have a tendency to lock if I hit them a little hard. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kehH4Yyi6Qs&feature=youtu.be
So maybe I'm good for another few days until the next carb rebuild. Note no Teflon tape on the FIF and FRF this time around.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #589
Anyone know what goes on "A" and if nothing should it be plugged (Toyota cap/rotor)? Seems weird to leave it open to the elements? Can't find anything in the 1978 emissions manual, etc.
"B" on the air cleaner has always been plugged - any possible connection with "A"?
Thanks
"B" on the air cleaner has always been plugged - any possible connection with "A"?
Thanks
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Mine both were pluged and I connected them... No idea if it was right but it worked lol
Sent from outer space via my mind
Sent from outer space via my mind
Yes, A goes to B and the intake vacuum draws ozone out of the cap through the very old red vacuum line on the left there that goes to a breather on the inside of the firewall above the passenger's feet, near the carb fan relay.
Fast Eddy said:
What he said.
The distributor cap is sealed, but air is pulled through via the engine's vacuum.
- Thread starter
- #593
Thanks a lot - I had thought I might have put a CA cap on a Federal truck, etc.
Gus, can you follow the red hose from the other port and take a picture of what it looks like on the other end? I follow Fast Eddy's description but it would be nice to see a picture of it. I have a later dizzy on my '77 and just have the hose going to a generic fuel filter on the inside of the firewall.
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- #595
This probably doesn't help much - can't really show you anything inside without pulling a bunch of stuff.
- Thread starter
- #597
Update for subzali 
Stock 1978 location from inside the cab, right under the Cooling Fan box.
Stock 1978 location from inside the cab, right under the Cooling Fan box.
Yep, just a breather.
Is anyone in RS parting out a '78?
Ige might know of where to get one...
Or you could just put your generic filter inside the firewall!
I know this is blasphemy to some, but if you're running a v8 and have no distributor connection to that filter, it then makes a good place to connect your differential vents. That's what I've done. It does on occasion smell like gear oil in the cab when you are working the gears hard, but hey, I kind of like the smell.